Effective control of aphids on plums and other fruit trees
Aphids (aphids) are the most common pests of horticultural crops. Fighting aphids on fruit trees is a whole range of agrotechnical measures, including compliance with farming rules, prevention and destruction of insect colonies.
Pest control is an important task for all gardeners and must be done systematically and correctly.
Harmful activity of aphids on fruit trees in summer
Many species of the aphid superfamily pose a threat to fruit crops. The mass spread of the pest is initially facilitated by the small size of the insect up to 7 mm and often gardeners notice damage to the tree only after the colony has grown.
The peculiarity of aphids is the ability to migrate. Winged individuals can travel long distances in search of a more comfortable place. The main reasons for migration are overpopulation or deterrence factors (pesticide treatment).
Aphids have unprotected and thin covers through which moisture evaporates easily. To maintain their vital functions, they are forced to constantly absorb nutrient moisture, much more than they need.
And they take it from plants, mainly from young buds and leaves, piercing the tissue of trees with a thin proboscis.
Stable absorption of amino acids and trace elements from the tree leads to its depletion. Development processes stop at the sites of numerous punctures. Outwardly, this can be seen by the signs:
- curling and darkening of the tops of the leaves;
- premature fall of green mass;
- deformation of shoots;
- painful growths on the trunk;
- darkening, stopping development and dropping of buds.
The waste products of aphids pose a great threat to the fruit tree. Excess moisture and carbohydrates are excreted from the pest's body in the form of sugary secretions, which are called honeydew or honeydew.
In the leaf plates and stems covered with a sticky liquid, photosynthesis and respiration of the plant are disrupted. A favorable environment is created for the development of fungi, the spores of which are easily carried by the wind and can cause an epidemic in the garden. In addition, aphids are a carrier of viral diseases that provoke abnormal development of trees.
The defeat of a fruit tree by a pest leads to a loss of the quality and quantity of the crop, incorrect development and soreness in the future. There are frequent cases of death or long-term recovery of fruit trees as a result of the defeat of large colonies of aphids.
It is possible to avoid exhausting work to destroy the pest and preserve the health of fruit trees if you minimize the possibility of aphids appearing on the site in advance. To do this, it is necessary to create uncomfortable living conditions for insects, to make the garden area unattractive for aphids.
- Beneficial insects. Biological enemies of aphids: ladybugs, ground beetles, wasps and hover flies. They can be attracted to the garden plot by planting daisies, carrots, dill, calendula, parsley.
- Repellents... Plants containing phytoncides repel aphids with their specific odor. You can plant marigolds, basil, lavender, mint, coriander nearby fruit trees.
- Plants are neighbors. It is important to avoid the proximity of plants, the smell of which attracts the pest. These are: linden, viburnum, bird cherry, legumes. Ornamental plants: petunia, cleoma, mallow, nasturtium, poppy. Many gardeners plant these plants away from fruit trees, and in the fall they destroy the affected crops. This distracts the aphids from the protected plant.
It is necessary to carry out preventive work every autumn, even if insects were not observed on the site in summer. Many gardeners, after harvest, treat plants with pesticides, and the number of insects reaches a maximum in early autumn. This becomes the reason for the aphids to search for more comfortable habitats.
Having flown to a new place, the pest lays eggs capable of wintering in the bark, under mulch, in the soil, in the rhizomes of the plant and dies. In the spring, with the appearance of the first heat, new individuals hatch from the eggs and begin to feed on young greens.
It is necessary to remove all the exfoliated bark of trees, change the layer of mulch, dig up the trunk circle, cover up the cracks and whitewash the stem. So for the eggs of the pest, there is practically no way to survive the winter.
If there is no preventive work or a particularly favorable season is created for the development of large aphid colonies, damage to fruit trees is difficult to avoid. In this case, it is important to prevent an increase in the number of pests and minimize damage to the fruit tree.
Aphid control without chemicals
Chemicals are very effective but have many side effects on human and pets health. Therefore, many gardeners use them only as a last resort, with massive lesions of the garden area. An alternative replacement is to get rid of aphids on the drain with solutions from natural components that are harmless to the environment.
Ash and soap solution
The composition of the two components in the complex is the strongest toxin for aphids.
- ash (400 g) is sieved and poured with water (5 l);
- boil for 30 minutes;
- the solution is filtered and brought to a volume of 10 liters;
- add 50 g of laundry soap.
Additionally, this composition has protective and nourishing properties.
It is a dark oily liquid with a scent that repels aphids. Additionally, it is useful for the plant with antiseptic and antimicrobial properties.
- tar 10 ml;
- laundry soap 50 g;
- water 10 l.
The trunk circle should also be processed. To prevent the reappearance of aphids, containers with birch tar are suspended in the crown of the tree. A birch tar insecticide will be effective in controlling a moderate number of pests.
Many plants contain insecticidal components, which are most pronounced after infusion and heat treatment.
Infusions and decoctions:
- Garlic... Chopped vegetable (200 g) is poured with water (10 l) and infused for 24 hours.
- Onion. Vegetable husk (300 g) is infused in water (10 l) for 5 days.
- Pharmaceutical camomile. The aboveground part (1 kg) is poured with hot water (10 l) and infused for 12 hours. From the infusion, a solution is made with water 1: 1 with the addition of soap (40 g).
- Buttercup. Stems and leaves (1 kg) are poured with water (10 l) and infused for 2 days. Filter and add 40 g of soap.
- Tomato tops... Freshly chopped raw materials (4 kg) are placed in water (10 l). Insist for an hour and boil for 30 minutes. The broth is diluted with water 1: 1.
- Capsicum. Fresh vegetable (100 g) is poured with water (1 l) and cooked over low heat for 1 hour. The broth is infused for 2 days, the raw material is squeezed out and brought to a volume of 10 liters.
- Yarrow. Dry grass (1 kg) is poured with water until the raw material is completely covered. Steamed in a water bath for 30 minutes. After that, 10 liters of water are poured and insisted for 2 days.
Excessive concentration of plant components can cause burns on the tree. Compliance with the recommended dosages will help avoid this. It is better to test the prepared product on a small area of the plant. Average consumption of herbal products is 10 liters per tree.
Kitchen methods are methods that use available products. These products are characterized by quick preparation, harmlessness and relatively quick action:
- "Coca Cola". Lemonade contains phosphoric acid, a powerful toxin for aphids. For the procedure, a solution of "Coca-Cola" and water (5: 1) is used. The treatment with the product has a long-lasting effect.
- Vodka. Spray with a clean product, and liquid soap can be added for better adhesion.
- Sunflower oil. The product (200 ml) is dissolved in water (10 L).
- Tobacco smoke. For fumigation, you need to place a heap of straw or manure near the trees, scatter tobacco over the surface and set it on fire. The procedure lasts 2 hours and is performed 2 times with an interval of two weeks.
Kitchen methods are economical for small trees and shrubs or for partial treatment of the most affected areas.
Many gardeners try not to use chemicals in their garden. Nevertheless, in case of mass infestation by pests, this cannot be avoided.
According to the method of penetration and the nature of the action, insecticides are divided into three types:
- Contact. They penetrate the pest's body through the skin upon contact with any part of the body. Most preferred for the control of aphids and other piercing-sucking pests. The main drugs: Karbofos, Fury, Fufannon.
- Intestinal. Cause poisoning if it enters the intestines with food. It is advisable to use if gnawing pests have settled on the tree along with aphids. Popular means: "Actellik", "Confidor", "Bankol".
- Systemic. They penetrate into plant tissues and are kept there for up to 30 days. With constant contact, they cause the death of insects living in the crown. In addition, toxic substances enter the body of pests through food. They differ in relative harmlessness to humans. Effective drugs: Tanrek, Prestige, Biotlin, Aktara.
Each drug must have instructions for use. It is necessary to adhere to all the manufacturer's recommendations, the concentration of different drugs and the consumption rate for trees differ.
A good option for certain cases is the combined preparation "Nitrofen". It is a complex action agent that is effective against pests, fungal diseases and weeds.
Terms and rules for processing
Each treatment for the season pursues its own goals, and they need to be carried out based on the individual situation.
If the concentration of the pest on the tree is low, do not spray the entire plant. Only problem areas can be treated. And it is convenient to use kitchen methods in these cases.
Spring processing of fruit trees
Early spring processing is carried out before bud break. During this procedure, it is necessary to spray the tree with an ash and soap solution. In case of severe damage to the tree, the ash in the solution is replaced by 80 g of kerosene.
The second treatment is carried out at the beginning of bud break. The purpose of the procedure is the destruction of young individuals hatched from winter eggs. This measure is very important and prevents the growth of the colony to a large-scale size, feature of aphids - high reproductive capacity.
With a large number of pests, treatment is carried out with contact or systemic drugs. If the number of insects does not cause concern, you can do with folk remedies, the consumption of which is 10 liters per average tree.
The third treatment is carried out in the absence of effect after previous procedures or when they are missed. It is especially important when the number of aphids is out of control. It is carried out twice in the phase of opening the buds and after 75% of the petals fall off. The choice of product depends on the number of insects. The next procedure is carried out after flowering, and only if pests are observed on the tree.
Aphids quickly acquire resistance to the active substances of drugs, so they must be combined. It is important to ensure that there is a period of 30 days between the processing and harvesting period, before and after the process. In parallel with these activities, it is necessary to fumigate fruit trees.
Autumn treatment against aphids
In the autumn, it is necessary to take preventive measures: remove the old bark and moss from the trunk. Prune old and damaged branches. The trunk circle is cleaned of fallen leaves, and if the tree is affected by pests and diseases, it is burned.
Autumn processing is carried out in October or November at temperatures above -5 ° C. A 5% urea solution (500 g / 10 l) is well suited for this procedure. Additionally, this will protect the tree from scab development.
How to process plums and fruit trees
The gardener's task is to get the insecticidal solution directly on the aphid colonies. This can be difficult when the leaves are curled a lot. In some cases, it is much better to simply rinse the tops of the shoots with a solution.
Good spraying quality is:
- procedures performed in the morning or evening hours, when there is no dew;
- processing in calm and cloudy weather, at high temperatures, the effect of drugs is reduced;
- no precipitation, the drug must remain on the surface of the tree for at least 3 hours;
- work with a high-quality spray, which is kept at a distance of 70 cm;
- covering the entire crown of the tree, you need to use a stepladder.
It is important to protect the skin and mucous membranes from the ingress of toxins and carry out processing only in protective clothing.
A fruit garden is a small ecosystem and how it will develop depends only on the gardener. Peaceful coexistence of pests and fruit crops is possible with constant control over the number of harmful insects. To do this, you do not need to violate the rules of agriculture, it is important to remove plant waste in a timely manner and create favorable conditions for beneficial insects.
And finally, a short video on how to deal with aphids on fruit trees:
Effective methods for controlling aphids on fruit trees
A small insect like aphids feeds on the sap of fruit trees. Therefore, it is worth fighting with it from the very beginning of the summer season. Any summer resident who grows an apple, cherry, plum and other trees on his own should know all the ways and methods how to defeat aphids and prevent their appearance.
This article will tell you about what this insect is, how dangerous it is for fruit and berry trees, and what effective methods are to destroy aphids.
Protecting trees from ants and aphids consists of installing barriers at ground level.
- You will need an old car tire. It is cut into 2 pieces. A ditch is dug under a tree, a tire is placed there, and it is well fixed with earth. Water is poured inside. Ants cannot swim. A distance of 10 cm turns out to be insurmountable for them. Fruit trees, fruits are protected from invasion.
- You can get rid of ants and aphids with chalk. Spread near a tree, coat the trunk. Particles of chalk stick to the legs of insects, depriving them of their tenacity. Pests simply fall from the tree, unable to reach the branches, damage the young seedlings.
- To prevent ants from climbing a tree, they tie a foil in the form of a skirt around the trunk. Insects are difficult to crawl on slippery surfaces, not flexible enough to overcome the sharp edges of the foil. Pests fall to the ground.
Trees can be saved in simple ways, if taken care of in a timely manner.
How to protect trees from ants and aphids?
Traditional products that can be purchased at any home and garden store will help you get results quickly and with a high degree of effectiveness. I must say that on sale you can find both chemical preparations for aphids - pesticides and insecticides, and biological ones based on the action of beneficial fungi. The former are able to provide 100% assistance to the affected plant, moreover, often during the first treatment, while the latter act more gently and require repeated spraying of the trees.
In turn, chemical insecticides are divided into contact, intestinal and systemic. The first ones penetrate the chitinous shell of the pest, killing it. The second affects the insect's digestive system. They are often used for spraying trees in a complex.Systemic drugs do not affect aphids, but the trees themselves, garden flowers and other plants, making their sap poisonous to pests.
However, their use is not always advisable. The fact is that they take effect only after 2 - 3 weeks. Crops with delicate leaves, such as flowers, may not wait for insects to die and wither away earlier. But for the treatment of fruit trees, systemic drugs are quite suitable.
However, there is one but. Such aphid remedies on trees should not be used in the middle and at the end of the growing season, especially if fruits have already appeared on the trees. They are shown to be used at the beginning of the season, when the first leaves appear on the trees.
The fight against aphids on plants and fruit trees with the help of biological preparations can be carried out more often - several times during the growing season. If you do not know how to spray trees during flowering, feel free to choose products based on fungi that are safe for both cultivated plants and humans.
Effective remedies for getting rid of aphids from trees
With the onset of spring, the time for trouble begins for gardeners and truck farmers. And often the cause of these troubles is aphids, which can cause great harm to fruit trees and shrubs. It is impossible to let the fight against these insects take its course: aphids on trees multiply rapidly and infect young leaves and shoots. We will tell you how to deal with aphids without harming plants.
What is aphid and how is it harmful to your summer cottage
These small insects ranging in size from 5 to 7 mm are familiar to all gardeners and gardeners. They pierce the surface of leaves, buds or shoots with their proboscis and suck out their juice. Because of this, the plant weakens and becomes very susceptible to viral diseases. Several species of aphids live exclusively on plant roots, damaging them.
There are winged and wingless forms of aphids. Colonies of winged aphids can spread up to 25 km with the help of the wind and lay eggs for the winter. Wingless reproduce asexually, the time for laying eggs is spring and summer.
In addition to the fact that aphids themselves harm plants, they lure ants, acting in symbiosis with them. Aphids secrete honeydew - a sweet substance derived from plant sap, which is very attractive to ants that protect the aphid colony from attacks by other insects.
Here are some symptoms to help you recognize aphid infestation on plants in your garden:
- young shoots and buds are covered with clusters of black or brown aphids visible to the naked eye
- there are even more insects on the underside of the leaves
- white particles are visible among insects, this is old skin shed by aphids
- the leaves and buds are affected by the fact that they are covered with sticky honeydew
- leaves that are affected stop development, curl downward and eventually dry out
- the affected buds do not open, which means that fruits will not develop from them.
Aphids have a detrimental effect on young shoots of trees
Aphids are omnivorous, so the damage they cause can become enormous. There are many types of aphids, almost any cultivated plant in your garden or vegetable garden can become a host for this parasitic insect. Over time, some species have adapted so much to the peculiarities of the climate and local flora that in the summer they live on vegetable crops - peppers, tomatoes, cucumbers, and in the fall they move to fruit trees to ensure their wintering.
Aphid prevention and control
The most important preventive measures are carried out as part of seasonal gardening work in the fall. First of all, be sure to cut and burn the affected branches and shoots on the tops of trees, shrubs. If you didn’t do it in the fall, it’s time to do the work in the spring, in preparation for the summer season.
Young trees and shrubs are especially susceptible to aphid attacks. Examine them carefully before the onset of winter, and if you notice a clutch of eggs, after the leaves fall, spray the shoots with water at a temperature of 70-80 degrees. Do the same in early spring, before the buds begin to open.
Instead of hot water, you can use Nitrofen solution, 300 g of substance per 10 liters of water.
Aphids most commonly affect fruit trees
Please note: a dark coating on the leaves may mean that a sooty fungus has started in the pad. Due to its defeat, the plant loses its productivity. You can get rid of this disease only by destroying aphids.
Here are some more tips to help you get rid of aphids:
- Since aphids live in symbiosis with ants, it is very important to get rid of these insects as well. Water the clutches of ant eggs in the immediate vicinity of the plants with boiling water.
- It is difficult for aphids to bite through elastic, strong and dense leaves. Therefore, regularly carry out abundant watering, fertilizing that are not overloaded with nitrogen, sprinkling the crown and mulching. Sprinkling will help wash away the honeydew in which the sooty fungus likes to settle.
- Remove the root growth of fruit trees in a timely manner. It does not bring any benefit, but only takes juice and strength from the tree. And since the branches and leaves on the shoots are very soft, they are especially susceptible to aphid attack.
- Old flaking bark is an excellent refuge for aphids and their nesting. Remove bark and whitewash tree trunks to help control pests.
Folk remedies to combat aphids
Although there are different types of aphids, the same methods can be used to eradicate them. The features are as follows:
- vegetables should be processed no later than 30 days before harvest
- fruit trees are sprayed during bud formation, after flowering and 3 weeks before harvest
- berry crops are processed before they bloom and after they are harvested.
Spraying regularly will help get rid of aphids.
The use of chemicals to control aphids requires caution and adherence to certain conditions. Therefore, many gardeners prefer to use folk remedies.
- Spraying with soapy water. To do this, you need to dissolve soap in laundry water in a ratio of 10 l: 300 g. In order for the soap to dissolve faster, rub it on a grater.
- Ash and soap solution. Add about 300 g of ash to 10 liters of water, bring to a boil and dissolve 40 g of soap in the mixture.
- Take 1 kg of fresh or 700 g of dry potato tops. It is very important that the tops are not affected by any diseases! Chop finely, pour 10 liters of water and leave for 3 hours. Strain the solution and spray it over the plants.
- Chop 200 grams of onions together with the scales and leave in 10 liters of water for about 20 hours. Spraying with strained onion solution perfectly destroys aphids.
- Garlic, thanks to its caustic aromatic oils, is also good at fighting pests. Grind 200 g of garlic heads and leave to infuse for 2 days in 5 liters of water. Dissolve 25 g of this concentrate in 10 l of water and spray the plants.
- Take 200 g of chopped dry tobacco (makhorka), pour 5 liters of water and leave for 2 days. Then strain and add another 5 liters of water. You can prepare a decoction in the same proportions, while the solution is infused for 24 hours, and then boiled for 2 hours.
A few more plants to help you
Nature "endows" us with many pests, but she also gives us methods of dealing with them. For example, an ordinary field dandelion helps to get rid of aphids on apple trees. It can also be used against copperheads or spider mites. In the spring, when dandelions are just beginning to bloom, their green mass is collected for infusion, and in the fall, rhizomes are dug up and stored in the basement, like carrots.
To prepare the infusion, you will need 400 g of leaves or 300 g of chopped roots. Pour 10 liters of warm water over them and leave for 2 hours. Strain and spray the plants thoroughly. For apple trees, this procedure must be carried out twice: during bud break and after flowering.
If you add more garlic and pepper to the dandelion, then the infusion will become more effective. Pass 400 g of dandelion leaves and roots through a meat grinder along with 200 g of garlic, add a tablespoon of pepper and dry mustard. Pour 10 liters of water and leave for 2-3 hours. This solution is excellent for both apple aphids (including melons and cabbage) and ticks.
Dandelion will be an excellent helper in the fight against pests
Plum is more susceptible to aphid attack than all trees, and not only because of the sticky leaves, but also because of the many young basal shoots that hatch every spring. Be sure to delete them! And, even if you did not notice aphids on the surface of the nursery, spray the plum tree. For this, you can use the tops of tomatoes. Chop 5 kg of fresh or 2 kg of dried tops, cover with boiling water and keep on low heat for 30 minutes. After the solution has cooled, strain it, dilute 3 liters of infusion and 30 g of laundry soap in 10 liters of water.
Not only for fruit trees - apple, pear, plum, cherry, but also for flowering shrubs, such as lilac, bird cherry, jasmine, spraying with coniferous infusion is very useful. For it, you need 2 kg of needles of spruce, pine, annual growth. Fill them with 8 liters of water and leave for a week in a cool, dark place, stirring daily. The resulting spray solution must be diluted in a ratio of 1 liter per bucket of water.
Biology on guard for your garden: birds and insects against aphids
So that aphids do not annoy your garden and orchard, you need to call insects and birds as allies, which are the main enemies of pests. Most of all, aphids will harm:
- ladybugs, and especially their larvae
- ground beetles
- predatory bugs
In order to attract insects that destroy aphids to your site, plant spicy and aromatic plants: dill, parsley, cloves, carrots, as well as nettles. The ladybug is very fond of calendula, which in addition will help decorate your garden.
Ladybug is one of the main enemies of aphids
Birds mainly feed the caught aphids to their chicks. Place feeders, birdhouses, and drinkers where they can to attract birds to your area.
Many plants have the ability to either repel or attract aphids. This can also be used to kill pests. Plant flowers such as petunia, begonia, mallow, cleoma and nasturtium away from vegetables and trees - the aphids will concentrate on them and will be distracted from the garden plantings. Of the trees, these plants include bird cherry, linden and viburnum.
Please note: in the fall, after the end of flowering, all the plants that you have planted to attract aphids to them are subject to mandatory harvesting and destruction. Either burn them or take them outside the site, otherwise the clutch of aphids will overwinter in comfortable conditions, and will bring you trouble again in the spring.
Marigolds, garlic and onions, fennel, Dalmatian chamomile, mint and coriander, on the contrary, scare away aphids with their sharp spicy smells, so it will be useful to plant them in the beds and in the aisles in the garden.
How to reduce the risk of plant infestation with parasitic insects?
The fight against aphids on fruit trees will be ineffective if you do not start it even before the insects appear. To do this, you need to take some measures.
This is what black aphid infestation looks like.
- In late autumn, as well as when the snow has just melted in spring, remove pieces of old bark from tree trunks, under which aphids hide for the winter and keep their clutches there. The cleaned tree is whitened, additional disinfection is performed, and pests are destroyed.
- With the appearance of the first weeds around fruit trees (plums and apple trees, in particular), they must be immediately uprooted. The bedstraw is especially dangerous.
- Get rid of root shoots in time.
- Spray trees regularly, starting in early April.
- Organize the correct feeding of green spaces, because aphid colonies occupy weak and overly actively growing plantations.
- Get rid of ant colonies (erect barriers on the tree trunk from strips of fluffy sainthepon) and, conversely, create conditions for the reproduction of Coccinellidae (ladybirds). It is the latter who exterminate aphids from early spring until late autumn.
Fighting aphids on fruit trees
The specialists of the Le Nôtre Park landscape workshop will help you get rid of the aphids on the trees. Depending on the degree of infection and safety requirements, the gardener will select the best method for dealing with this pest.
Favorite crops of aphids are fruit trees, currants, gooseberries, roses, tomatoes and some others. As for fruit trees, this pest prefers to "feast on" apple trees, plums, cherries, apricots.
What is dangerous
Despite the fact that aphids "ignore" the berries and fruits of plants, they still cause significant harm to them, sucking the juice from the upper part of the shoots and thereby weakening them. As a result, plants become vulnerable in the cold season, can freeze out, deform, etc. This cannot but affect the quality and quantity of the crop.
The small size of the pest - only 2 mm - may seem not too threatening and can be easily misled. But this is the case when quantity is of paramount importance.
Over the summer, different types of aphids give from 10 to 17 generations. Aphids transform from larvae into an adult individual in 7-8 days, and this adult individual gives the next generation, moreover, winged aphids that easily move to new plants.
Huge moving swarms, coloring the backs of delicate leaves in different colors - red, black, green (according to the color of the aphids themselves) - are able to suck all the life juices from a tree or bush.
Among other things, aphids are a carrier of viral diseases, which often destroy even rather large and strong fruit trees - plum, apple.
How does it appear on plants
Aphid eggs hibernate on young tree branches near the buds. At the beginning of the green cone period, faded, inconspicuous larvae hatch. We usually notice that aphids have attacked a tree after seeing deformed, twisted leaves, where the larvae are already teeming with a dense layer.
In order to find clutches of aphid eggs in early spring, it is worth watching ants. If on a sunny day, even before the buds wake up, you carefully examine the young branches, you will surely see ant scouts. What do ants do on a tree in early spring?
It is the ants that are its malicious carriers, guards and shepherds. Often, aphids appear on trees after these small industrious insects literally transport them there, which then feast on the so-called honeydew, which aphids secrete.
Actually, for the sake of these sugar secretions - excess moisture and carbohydrates - they introduce pests on plants.
In spring, aphids are barely visible and may seem to be absent. However, at the end of May, adults begin to appear. They scatter around the garden, forming new colonies.
The simplest and most straightforward method of getting rid of pests is to remove them by hand. However, it is most convenient to perform this manipulation on low plants - shrubs, flowers. It is better to knock down aphids from trees with a strong stream of water from a hose.
As you can imagine, this is not the most effective way to combat harmful insects. Let's look at other options.
Biological methods of elimination
Nature took care and gave us natural helpers in the fight against this gluttonous pest: ladybugs, some species of wasps, larvae of lacewings, tits, chiffchaffs, sparrows, linnetworms eat this insect with great pleasure.
How to do it? Plant specific plants that will attract birds or insects that eat aphids: nettles, some scented herbs, green manure plants.
In gardening centers or in online stores, lacewing larvae (as experts say, a very effective remedy for aphids in the garden) and ladybugs are sold. This biological control method should only be used if the pests have already multiplied very strongly on the site and threaten your crops.
To attract birds that like to eat aphids, in open places, but not far from natural shelter (tree or bush), it is necessary to hang out feeders with fresh food or plant plants that are natural food for them.
Some plants tend to drive away aphids, for example, garlic and onions, Dalmatian chamomile. It would be logical to plant them close to those crops that are attacked by harmful insects.
But aphids simply adore nasturtium, mallow, kosmeya, tuberous begonias. Do not plant these crops in the vicinity of pest-affected trees. Do not plant sleeping poppy, viburnum, linden nearby.
However, it is worth noting that aphids on fruit trees multiply so rapidly that sometimes a person should intervene in the process of protecting plants from uninvited insects.
Now in stores you can buy many different chemical preparations, which often have a detrimental effect not only on harmful insects, but also on all living things.
The berries are poured, and pesticides can get on them, on the grass around, as well as on animals walking around. Therefore, many gardeners choose folk remedies for aphids on fruit trees.
Soap solution... Grate 300 g of ordinary laundry soap, dissolve it in 10 liters of water, treat the plant branches with a solution.
- Fill a small basin with water. Add ash and some liquid soap there (you can Faery). Stir and dip the tops of aphid-infested branches into this bowl. Even if you inadvertently rip off these tops, you won't do much harm. After that, be sure to burn the diseased twigs. Finally, spray the entire plant with this solution with a spray bottle.
- Heat the water, pour 150-300 g of ash into it, bring to a boil, then add 40 g of liquid soap. Spray the diseased plant with this solution.
Herbal infusions... Natural infusions are, of course, not chemicals, but they can also harm both the plant and the person. Many of the products are prepared in a concentrated form and can cause burns in trees and shrubs in an undiluted state. Some solutions are toxic to humans. Therefore, use them with extreme caution!
Fruit crops are treated with infusions after flowering during the budding period and 2 weeks to 40 days before harvesting berry plants - before flowering and after harvesting, vegetable crops are sprayed 1 month before harvesting.
Onion... Finely chop 200 g of onions (with scales) and add 10 liters of water to it. Let it brew for 12-18 hours.
Garlic... In chopped garlic (200 g), add a liter of water and leave to infuse in a tightly covered container for 5 days. For spraying, you need to mix 25 ml of infusion with 10 liters of water.
From potato tops... You will need 1 kg of green or 700 g of dry potato tops. It must be finely chopped and infused for 3 hours in 10 liters of water. Then strain and treat the tree from aphids with this solution.
Citrus... The infusion is prepared from 100 g of dried peels of any citrus fruits. They need to be poured with one liter of warm water and insisted for three days.
Dandelion... Pour 400 g of leaves only or 200 g of a plant with rhizomes with 10 liters of warm water, let it infuse for 2 hours.
If desired, liquid soap (about 1 tsp) or soap shavings (no more than 40 g) can be added to the infusions before using them. The soap gives the product better adhesion to the leaves.
Herbal decoctions... Herbal decoctions are quite effective remedies for aphids on fruit trees, as they have fungicidal, insecticidal and antifeeding properties. Here are some helpful recipes.
Tobacco... It is necessary to grind 200 g of dry tobacco leaves, fill them with water (5 l) and leave for 1 day. Then add water to make 10 liters and boil the broth over low heat for 2 hours.
From yarrow... It is desirable to make the broth from the herb, which is collected at the beginning of flowering. You will need 1 kg of dry plant. Add 2 liters of water to it, leave in a water bath for 40 minutes. After that, add water to make it 10 liters, and put the broth in a dark place, where it should stand for about 2 days.
Foliar fertilization... For feeding, you should take 20 g of superphosphate, 10 g of potassium chloride and 10 liters of water. Mix everything and try to spray the leaves on top and bottom. Processing is carried out twice: the second is 6-7 days after the first. It is this top dressing that is unfavorable for aphids.
Chemical control agents
If you failed to destroy aphids on trees using folk methods, or you simply missed this moment, then you will have to use chemicals.
It should be noted right away that this method is far from safe - both fruits and beneficial insects can get under the gardener's spray. The use of chemistry in the fight against aphids is advisable only with a high number of pests, and even then not always.
The garden maintenance service of the Le Nôtre Park landscape workshop has the necessary modern and efficient equipment for the processing of trees and shrubs.
Gardeners will work with agronomists to develop an optimal strategy for protecting your garden from diseases and pests, and they will strictly follow it throughout the season. The order is made by calling the contact phone or in person.
To destroy aphids, chemical preparations are used, which are divided into:
- Contact: suggest the penetration of poison into the insect. These are Karbofos, Fufanon Intestines: they penetrate into the digestive tract of the pest, causing poisoning. Most often, they produce chemicals of combined action, namely contact-intestinal - Confidor, Bankol, Iskra Systemic: they get inside the plant, into its cells, as well as into the fruits. There they remain for up to 4 weeks, they are not washed off either by rains or by watering. These drugs are the most effective (based on imidacloprid), but also the most dangerous. These are Tanrek, Confidant, Biotlin, Aktara (used not only for the direct destruction of insects, but also for the prevention of their appearance).
These aphid preparations kill even the aphids that are in the twisted leaves. Spray with poisons should be no more than 2 times per season, when insects multiply most massively - May-June.
The funds have a gentle effect on the external environment, which is why they are used more often. What the experts recommend: Doff All in One Bug Spray and Py Spray Garden Insect Killer.
Before starting to get rid of aphids in the garden, destroy any weeds growing nearby. Many gardeners have noticed that aphids appear first on them, so they act as such breeding grounds for an insect.
It is necessary to spray the tree from aphids so that the underside of the leaves is well moistened.
It is not recommended to treat trees for aphids in sunny or rainy weather. The rain will quickly wash away the solution, and the sun can burn plants.