Cultivation of clematis

Cultivation of clematis

Growing beautiful lianas in the northwest of Russia

Clematis flowers begin to bloom on the shoots of the last year and continue on the shoots of the current year, i.e. some of the shoots should be preserved (1-1.5 m).

When growing clematis, the question: pruning - not pruning the shoots - is very important. Success is guaranteed to someone who always knows the correct answer to this question when growing various groups of clematis.

I believe that it is more important for novice growers to choose the right group and variety of clematis, focusing on unpretentiousness and stability. It is high time to understand one truth: we are in a zone of very bad climatic conditions. Therefore, the emphasis should be on alpine clematis and large-flowered clematis of the Jacqueman and Viticella group. To a lesser extent, the Lanuginoza group is suitable. In the conditions of the European climate, the emphasis is on clematis of the Patens groups, Florida (by the way, they are brought to us more often than others).

The originators of domestic breeding clematis - Sharonova, Orlov, Kivastik, Vaigla, Riekstinia, Beskaravaynaya - understood this and focused on the selection of the first two groups. Therefore, domestic varieties are preferable from the point of view of exploitation. Outstanding foreign varieties have become entrenched in our country due to their unpretentiousness. These are classic varieties - Ville De Lyon, Victoria, Jacquemany, Jacksie Queen, Nelly Moser, Rouge Cardinal. There are not so many of these varieties. These are masterpieces of world selection.

The choice of planting material

As a rule, gardeners acquire clematis in the form of rooted one-year-old cuttings. The material is weak. The best option is to plant the plants for growing in your own nursery for two years. Clematis easily tolerate a transplant both in spring (the best dates are early May) and in autumn. In the first 2-3 years, the vine mainly works on increasing the root system.

For beginners, the best option is to buy two or three-year-old large cuttings with a large volume of roots and 3-4 or more shoots in nurseries. Such a division can be immediately planted in operation. It can bloom in the year of planting. Delenki are very tenacious, they can be safely stored in the refrigerator, in moist moss for about a month.

Agrotechnics of clematis

Clematis are plants that require the mandatory observance of several rules. Firstly, they are still plants of mountains and foothills, hills - from this it follows that they should be grown in soil of a neutral or slightly alkaline reaction. The use of deoxidized peat, even low-lying peat, does not give good results. Ordinary old garden soil, compost is fine. Secondly, clematis grow very quickly in May-June - up to 5-6 cm or more per day.

They form a large number of shoots, therefore, in spring and early summer, they require good moisture. A structured garden soil stores a large amount of spring moisture. Sand dries quickly, peat gives an acidic reaction, clay is heavy, poorly nutritious. At the same time, clematis categorically do not like an excess of water, its stagnation in the zone of the root collar. This is the most vulnerable spot of the plant. Here are the buds of renewal (remember peonies, dahlias).

Thus, the suction roots can be in the waterlogged zone, but the root collar must be raised to avoid the impact of melt spring waters, July showers. In practice, this can be achieved by raising the clematis by 20-25 cm when planting (a rabat, a bed, a raised flower garden, etc.). Thirdly, the planting pit should be thoroughly prepared. Clematis grow in one place up to 6-8 years.

Then the bush grows old, the number of stems becomes more than 100 pieces, the flowering weakens, the soil is depleted. Therefore, the volume of the soil should provide nutrition for the plant for the next few years. The suction roots reach a depth of 1 m. The average dimensions of the pit are 0.5 x 0.5 x 0.7 (0.8). Garden soils, rich in humus, good results are obtained by using a three-year compost. Usually a certain amount of complex fertilizers is added to the soil, filled with phosphorus fertilizers. Literary sources advise to make 4-5 dressings in the summer.

In spring - with a high nitrogen content, in the second half of the season - potassium, phosphorus. There are no specific recommendations. It is advised to water clematis with milk of lime, i.e. remember the need to alkalinize the soil. Fourthly, when planting clematis, the root collar should be deepened by 10-15 cm. This event will cause the formation of additional roots, which will enhance the nutrition of the plant. And during wintering, conditions in the root collar zone will be more favorable.

I am a supporter of spring planting. Clematis begin to develop at a temperature of + 5 + 6 ° C. Like all vines, they do not like excessive heating of the soil in the zone of exit from the ground. Apply flat grass mulching, ground cover planting. Clematis easily tolerate frosts of -5-6 ° C, they do not stop flowering even in September-October. You can trim clematis in the fall, you can in the spring. Shoots that need to be preserved are laid on the ground, covered with branches or some kind of breathable material. Do not use roofing felt, roofing felt, polyethylene - during a thaw, excess moisture can lead to damping of the stems.

Frosts are not terrible for clematis, excess moisture is destructive. Under a natural layer of snow, clematis calmly survived the harsh winters of 1987 and 2003, having endured temperatures of minus 44 ° C. I never write in articles, I do not speak in lectures about the use of spruce branches. Gardeners are like children: tell them what to cover with spruce branches, and goodbye, spruce forests. Let's do floriculture not to the detriment of nature. There are so many other ecological methods and materials around us (reeds, old boxes). In early spring, the shelter is removed as early as possible.

Reproduction of clematis

My favorite is to propagate clematis by division. The method is the simplest and most effective. In early spring, we dig up 6-10-year-old clematis, wash it off the ground and divide it.

Large parcels - for operation, weak stubs - for the nursery. Most importantly, any division must necessarily have a part of the last year's stem and roots. Renewal buds are located at the junction of the stems and roots. Divide clematis with a knife, secateurs. A lot in the refrigerator in moss can lie for more than a month.

When planting, you can also use modern biostimulants. The second way is grafting. Cuttings with one or two pairs of leaves are cut during budding, flowering, immediately after flowering. By this time (usually the beginning of July) the shoots are partially woody. Such cuttings root better. Greens are worse.

I cut in the sand, in the most ordinary cuttings. Rooting takes 25 to 35 days. Clematis alpina is cut better. The use of biostimulants increases rooting. The usual result is 90-100%. By the way, alpina can be cut with last year's stems, i.e. already in the spring. When transplanted into the ground, the roots do not break, so that they can be immediately transferred into the ground from the cuttings.

In August-September, rooting decreases, and young plants overwinter worse. It is clear that clematis can also be propagated by the layering method. Species clematis, as a rule, propagate by seeds. Purchased seeds require stratification and germinate in different ways - from one month to six months. Large-flowered clematis also set seeds. When sowing them, you can get your own hybrids, the flowering of which you will see in 5-6 years.

Features of the placement of clematis

Like any vines, clematis feel much better in the wind, on the wall of a house, in a makeshift, on the western, eastern or southern exposure. The northern part of the house is dark and windy.

You need to know that in the bright sun the red varieties fade slightly. Clematis clings with two upper pairs of petioles. The best support is a lath made of wood, iron wire. A thin mesh is impractical, and then it is difficult to clean it from shoots. Clematis grows worse in the middle of the plot, in the wind, in this case it is necessary to create backstage. You can plant at a frequency of 1 plant per 1 meter. Try to match clematis by color.

You can combine them with other vines. Next to a concrete foundation, clematis alpina feels better. This type is very good on a snag, a large stone, it looks organically on a terrace, a wrought-iron fence. Clematis flowers look at the sun, this must be taken into account when choosing a place for plants.

When cut, its flowers wither quickly. Floating flowers look beautiful on the water surface. Unfortunately, clematis also get sick. Modern garden chemistry offers a number of preparations. Make it a rule: spray the currants - process the clematis. But, in my opinion, it is wiser and more correct to correctly follow the ecology of the plant. High agricultural technology, a good choice of a variety or type, a warm place on the site, adherence to recommendations on agricultural technology will allow you to achieve a good result.

I believe that it is useful for novice flower growers to familiarize themselves with the relevant literature, first of all, with the books of authors who themselves were engaged in the selection and scientific study of clematis: Beskaravaynaya M.A. "Clematis - vines of the future", 1998, Voronezh. Beskaravaynaya M.A. "Clematis", Rosagropromizdat, 1991. V.E. Riekstina, N.R. Riekstins. "Clematis", Agropromizdat, 1990. Some articles can be found in magazines for flower growers.

I. Pavlov, gardener
Photo by the author

Growing clematis: planting and care

Once we had a chance to visit a fairy tale, there is no other way to say. It was an amazing garden where clematis of all sorts reigned. The beauty that we saw overwhelmed us. Clematis of different colors: red, white, crimson, blue, purple, pink, lilac, blue. Flowers from tiny to giants, of various shapes: simple, double, semi-double, bells, small flowers, collected in inflorescences! Indescribable beauty!

Since then we have "got sick" with clematis. And of course, the kings of flowers, as they are often deservedly called, appeared on our site. At first there were fears that this would not work out for us. Now we can say with confidence that you should not be afraid to grow these beautiful plants. Not everything is as complicated as it seems. You just need to know the most important points of planting and leaving.

Do I need to cover clematis for the winter.

In order to prevent freezing of the lower bud and roots, these vines need to be sheltered from frost. Therefore, before sheltering the shoots, remove all the leaves from them in order to exclude rotting. Then we remove the mulch at the base of the bush and cover the neck of the vine with compost or peat. After that, we spread the stems in a circle in a ring, fasten the stems to the ground with clips of thick wire, cover with mulch on top and cover with a waterproof material, leaving holes for ventilation. In early spring, we release the shoots and tie them to a support.

For all its beauty, clematis frighten some summer residents with the difficulties of growing and caring for. But, if you take care of this amazing and liana correctly, then you will be able to grow wonderful and luxurious flowers in the country, which look especially beautiful when paired with climbing roses.


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I became interested in Clematis many years ago. While still working at the Yunnatov station, she acquired her “firstborn” there - the “Fantasy” variety.

Over the years, she has collected a solid collection of clematis, numbering more than 50 varieties. I never cease to admire these vines, so royally majestic at the time of their flowering!

Clematis is one of the most spectacular and grateful lianas of extraordinary beauty. There is hardly another perennial plant that can delight the eye with its varied in color, numerous and large flowers for such a long period - more than three months!

There are a lot of conflicting opinions among gardeners regarding the difficulties of keeping clematis.

As a rule, novice growers are frightened, considering the cultivation of clematis something almost heroic and accessible only to a select few.

Based on my many years of experience with clematis, I would like to dispel some of the myths associated with the content of this vine.

Myth one: growing clematis is very problematic.

Everything is relative. If you can easily cope with several rose bushes (which now adorn so many gardens!), Then clematis care is much easier. I believe that keeping clematis is a trifling matter that requires much less effort than keeping roses. But in this matter you need to be patient.

Many novice florists are disappointed that even after two years of cultivation, they cannot achieve the same exuberant flowering from their clematis, which is amazing in the photo in specialized magazines and advertising catalogs. Self-flagellation begins, self-doubt arises, hands become discouraged.

But at first there is a simple explanation for the weak flowering of clematis! The biological feature of clematis is such that for at least the first three years, all their strength is spent on building up the root system and the formation of numerous renewal buds at the base of the bush. Therefore, the terrestrial part of the vine during this period of initial development does not differ in increased growth. Accordingly, one should not expect a violent flowering from a young clematis.

But this does not mean that you will not see flowers from him at all during the period of increased root growth.

With good care of planted clematis cuttings, the next season, by August-September, buds appear and the first flowers open.

Experts advise not to allow clematis seedlings to bloom during this period in order to strengthen the plant. However, I always wait for the dissolution of the first flower on a new clematis :) After all, curiosity seizes - is it the plant purchased, what I was counting on?

From my own bitter experience, I know that a re-grading of clematis, alas, is present - both when buying seedlings on the market, and when ordering from large florist companies.

Seeing the first flowering of a new clematis and satisfying my curiosity, I limit its growth. I shorten the seedling to 50-60 cm, giving the young clematis the opportunity to gain strength before frost for a successful winter.

I will say to impatient novice growers that in the first years of life, clematis may not bloom at all. I myself often had to wait 3-4 years for the purchased seedlings to bloom for the first time. What is the reason - for me it still remains a mystery. You involuntarily begin to think about the negative energy of the seller, you are the last to blame yourself.

The most annoying thing in such cases is that after waiting for the beginning of the flowering of clematis for so long, as a result, you find a completely different variety that was purchased. So I was disappointed with the clematis seedlings bought at the Moscow flower exhibition: after years of waiting, it turned out to be a re-grading again.

I had another interesting situation with clematis. Since I am breeding clematis, I try to multiply attractive varieties as quickly as possible. Once I bought a new clematis variety in July. Immediately she shortened the seedling somewhat and let the cut off part of the shoots onto the cuttings.

Imagine my surprise when the next year my cuttings - "frozen" bloomed before the mother plant, which by this time was three years old. Miracles, and more!

Myth two: problems with wintering clematis

The second myth says that clematis is difficult to prepare for winter, they do not tolerate it well.

To begin with, this vine belongs to the Buttercup family - it is one of the most resistant and cold-resistant. Clematis start to grow when snow is still gleaming in the garden here and there. The unfolded leaves of clematis can withstand significant spring frosts (up to -5 ... -8 degrees) without any harm to the plant.

The most dangerous thing about clematis wintering is stagnation of spring melt water at the base of the bush. In order to prevent this, in the fall, it is necessary to pour peat or humus under each plant near a bucket of peat or humus, forming a small mound.

In the spring, when the ground thaws, you need to carefully scoop up excess soil, freeing the base of the bush.

Clematis requires a small artificial shelter only in the first 2-3 years after planting, until the young plants get stronger. Then they will be able to build up a powerful green mass over the season.

In the future, before wintering, it will be enough, after the autumn pruning of clematis, to mercilessly tear off the rest of the ground part from the supports and lay it on top. Numerous intertwined clematis shoots form a loose, non-crushing shelter with excellent air exchange, well retaining snow at the roots.

When preparing clematis for wintering, care must be taken to protect them from mice. This is especially true when using artificial shelters (plastic film, roofing material) of clematis shoots for the winter. Having climbed into such a cozy dry tunnel, harmful rodents arrange their nests there, letting gnawed branches of clematis into their arrangement.

After one such wintering, in the spring all clematis shoots, planted in a row and covered with a film, were destroyed by mice (completely, at the root) in the spring. However, then they quickly grew new shoots, but that year I lost the opportunity to admire the early flowering of the affected clematis.

Since then, every autumn I have to lay out a poisoned bait against mice under each clematis bush.

Myth three: the advantage of clematis blooming on young shoots

The third common misunderstanding concerns the fact that it is better to acquire clematis varieties blooming on young shoots. The analogy with climbing roses affects here. Indeed, there is a group of roses that blooms only on last year's shoots. In the event of the death of shoots in winter, in the next season, gardeners are forced to admire only the newly growing branches of the affected climbing roses and regret the lack of flowering.

With clematis, the situation is completely different. Even without saving last year's clematis shoots, you will still enjoy its summer flowering on young branches. Such a group of clematis - flowering on last year's shoots - is, in my opinion, even preferable, since the period of their flowering is very extended. Their first buds begin to bloom sometimes even at the end of May (this is ours in Vitebsk!). And it is to this group that most of the terry varieties of clematis belong.

Surprises of terry varieties of clematis

I would like to talk about terry clematis separately. They are at the peak of popularity, the cost of their seedlings is much higher than varieties with non-double flowers.

clematis "Supermulti"

Looking at the double flowers of clematis of incredible shape and stunning beauty, sometimes looking like gorgeous peonies, you can't even believe that this is a clematis flower!

However, for some reason, almost none of the sellers informs buyers that almost all terry varieties of clematis fight with their extraordinary flowers only in the first wave of flowering on overwintered shoots (June-early July). And then simple non-double flowers bloom on the vines ...

Of course, this circumstance is not so important for true fans of clematis, since it in no way diminishes the further decorativeness of the vines. Very often, the summer non-double flowering of terry clematis is much more abundant and brighter (for example, in the varieties "Veronica Chois", "Miss Chalmondeli", "Louise Rav").

But still, novice gardeners should be aware of this feature of terry clematis in order to be ready for their non-double flowering.

So, if you purchased a terry clematis seedling, and then it bloomed with non-double single-row flowers, you should not rush to accuse the dishonest seller!

If the color of the flowers of the terry seedling coincided with the declared one, then be patient until next season and try to save last year's clematis shoots in winter.

Choosing a method for pruning clematis seedlings

Many growers find it difficult to choose a method for pruning clematis. This difficulty is also associated with a lack of information.

All varieties of clematis can be conditionally divided into 2 groups:

1 - blooming only on young shoots of the current year

2 - blooming both on old shoots of last year, and on young ones.

Therefore, when purchasing a clematis seedling, you need to check with the seller: which group does this variety belong to?

However, this can be difficult - because sellers often have no idea what they are selling.

If you did not receive such information on time or are faced with a re-grading of clematis, then you should not despair. Be patient and watch the new plant for a couple of years.

Leave the old clematis shoots (about 50 cm long) for the winter. And in the spring, pay attention: at what maximum height the buds will awaken. See where exactly the first flowers will begin to dissolve.

If, for two years, the old shoots of clematis remain lifeless after wintering, and young shoots appear only from the ground (or from the lowest buds of old shoots), then this means that the plant belongs to the first group.

Then boldly cut off almost the entire ground part of this clematis in the fall, keeping shoots only 25-30 cm long from the ground.

I leave shoots of this length with the first group of clematis with the sole purpose of fixing them on the trellis in the spring and giving the initial support for the emerging young growth.

In the care instructions for some clematis varieties, it is recommended to keep old shoots in winter to ensure early flowering. This means that this variety belongs to the second group.

But it does not follow from this that it is necessary to carefully take care of the entire green mass of clematis from summer growth. In some varieties of clematis, it reaches more than three meters. At the same time, the apical part of the shoots still does not mature by the end of the season and is not capable of producing viable buds.

Therefore, it is enough to preserve only the lower part of the shoots of such clematis for the winter, about 60-100 cm (their length depends on the climatic zone and is selected empirically from the characteristics of the variety). And all the remaining green mass can be put into the clematis winter shelter.

About the strength of lignified shoots of clematis

Do not be afraid of the fragility of lignified shoots of clematis!

It happens like this: having received a clematis seedling by mail in the fall, many novice gardeners needlessly panic when they notice a broken stem.

Firstly, the main clematis buds are located at the base of the bush, in the area of ​​the root collar (in the place where the roots grow).

Secondly, in the lignified shoot of clematis, only the outer layer, the bark, is fragile. And the escape itself is very durable! Rather, you can injure your hands than you can break it.

Therefore, removing lignified shoots of clematis before wintering in the fall from supports and laying down, do not flinch at the slightest crack of the bark.

On the vulnerability of young shoots of clematis But young shoots of clematis that grow in spring really require a very gentle and careful attitude. Although they are powerful in appearance, they are juicy and very fragile. Therefore, it is necessary to take care of a decent support for young vulnerable shoots of clematis for the first time, until they get stronger.

Do not forget about the fragility of the delicate sprouts of clematis when the impatience of a novice gardener forces him to rake the soil around the bush. After all, sometimes you so want to quickly make sure that the clematis seedling coped with the winter with dignity.

I am speaking about this based on my own experience. At first, I, too, repeatedly injured the tops of the underground shoots of clematis making their way to the light while trying to reassure myself that the seedling did not die.

In this case, the plant inhibits its growth by launching reserve buds.

Do not rush to uproot the "dead" clematis

The main thing is to be patient and not panic, if in the spring you suddenly find only a dried twig at the clematis planting site.

This primarily applies to young autumn plantings of clematis, but it is also true for adult plants.

If for some reason not a single sprout appears in the place of an adult clematis, which has already delighted you with its extraordinary flowering, in the spring or even by the middle of summer, do not rush to take up a shovel and uproot the bush!

Once, after a very harsh winter, my "firstborn" - clematis of the "Fantasy" variety, did not show any signs of life for a long time.

I think, in this case, a number of factors worked negatively: both the solid age of the vine (more than 10 years), and the Spartan growing conditions (ruthless sunshine, planting in construction dumps).

Imagine my amazement when, after as much as FOUR years, a new sprout of "Fantasy" suddenly appeared from the ground!

Don't be afraid to plant clematis in your garden. grow these gorgeous vines. They will incredibly decorate your garden and change its appearance so much that you will forever become a fan of these spectacular plants.

Categories: Garden, vegetable garden / Growing flowers

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With a high standing of groundwater (80–100 cm), they are planted on artificial mounds, and drainage from pebbles, gravel, and broken bricks is arranged at the bottom of the planting pits. On heavy soils, the size of the planting pits is 70 x 70 x 70, on light soils - 50 x 50 x 50.

A modern take on planting clematis in heavy soils.

Best time to divide and transplant clematis in the open field - April - early May, when the ground has already thawed, but the plants have not yet begun to germinate. Acceptable and autumn time - the end of August - September. In summer, clematis are transplanted when the shoots are lignified. Plants in containers can be replanted from spring to autumn.

Clematis with a tap root system, they do not tolerate transplantation. It is better to immediately plant them in a permanent place.

The planting pit is filled with a mixture of peat, humus (compost), garden soil, sand (1: 2: 2: 1), add 2-3 glasses of ash, 100-150 g of mineral fertilizers, 150-200 g of dolomite flour. In the pit, a mound is made from the prepared mixture, the roots are carefully spread over it, sprinkled with a small amount of the mixture and moistened.

Clematis when landing, they must be buried. This protects the roots from freezing in winter and overheating in summer. In this case, the tillering node for young plants should be 5–8 cm below the pit edges, for adults - by 8–10 cm. The tillering node should be sprinkled with clean sand with the addition of wood ash and crushed charcoal. After filling the hole completely, make a hole for watering 15–20 cm from the seedling and water it again.

The soil is mulched with peat or humus. To reduce overheating of the soil, seedlings can be planted with tagetes, calendula, lavender, subulate phlox.

Supports for vines must be installed before planting or immediately after planting, otherwise the root system can be damaged. The diameter of the support for which clematis will cling should not exceed 2 cm.


For the first three years, clematis cannot please us with a riot of colors, like the plants depicted in glossy magazines. This is because during these years the vines spend energy on the development of the root system and
bud formation, however, with proper care, clematis cuttings are able to show the first flowers. Many varieties of clematis may not bloom in the early years!
To strengthen the plant before the upcoming winter, it is necessary to limit its growth - to shorten the seedling to 60 cm.
There is an experience when the cut off part of the shoots is allowed to grow on cuttings and their flowering begins earlier than that of the mother plant.

Misconception: clematis do not tolerate wintering well

Here it is worth reporting that clematis are cold-resistant, capable of withstanding temperatures up to 8 ° C. To
when growing clematis, not to ruin the plant, the main thing is to pay attention to the fact that in the spring, melt water does not stagnate at the base of the bush. To do this, in the fall, under the base of each bush, you need to make
a bucket of peat and build a mound, and in the spring, after thawing, free the bush from excess land.An artificial shelter will also help protect young plants from frost, but in this case, you should think about protecting plants from mice, lovers of films and roofing material. Then the twigs of clematis will become a means of creating nests. In the fall, spread a poisoned bait under each bush and only then cover the clematis with artificial material.

Misconception: the best varieties of clematis are those that bloom on young shoots

This opinion arose in comparison with the cultivation of climbing roses. However, it is not. In climbing roses, if shoots die in winter, then in the next season only branches can be seen, there will be no flowering, but in clematis, even if the shoots have died, then young branches in summer will still delight you with flowering, in particular terry varieties of clematis.

Clematis can bloom on young shoots of the current season or last year's shoots. When buying clematis, check with the seller for this nuance. It often happens that sellers do not own the
information, so this method will help you determine this: for the winter, old shoots are cut to a length of 50 cm, and in the spring you need to track where the buds awaken and the first flowers open. If young shoots appear from the lower buds of shoots or from the ground, then the clematis will bloom on young
shoots of the current year. This means that in the fall, you can carry out a global pruning, leaving shoots 30 cm from the ground, then in the spring they can be immediately fixed on the trellis.
If, when buying clematis, it is said that in winter you need to preserve old shoots, then flowering will be on last year's shoots. In such varieties of clematis, green mass can grow up to 3 meters or more,
therefore, for the winter, it is enough to leave shoots up to 1 meter, here you need to experiment, you can cover the plants with the trimmed part.

Misconception: Clematis shoots are very fragile

Do not tremble over the fragility of clematis shoots. By purchasing seedlings
or when you receive them in the mail, you can see the broken stem -
do not despair. All the most basic is at the base of the bush,
moreover, the clematis shoot itself is very durable and strong, in
difference from the bark, therefore, most likely the break did not occur in the stem,
and the bark. The same applies to the moment of removing the shoots from the supports, when
you can hear the crunch of the plant.

Reality: young shoots are very vulnerable

Yes, young shoots of clematis need to be treated with care, since
they are juicy, despite their apparent strength. Prepare
proper support. After wintering, when you will rake near
the base of the bush is the soil, be careful, as clematis sprouts
really fragile. When sprouts are injured,
a brake on the development of a plant.

Planting clematis - tips for novice florists.

When you solve the problem of how to grow a healthy clematis, remember that it absolutely does not tolerate transplantation, so plant them immediately in a permanent place. And in this place, it can grow up to 40 years, provided that you have properly prepared the planting pit.

How to save a seedling before planting.

If you bought your plant in the supermarket in early spring and you still have to get to the dacha, or, perhaps, it is still too cold for planting, you need to make friends with the plant at home.

Place the seedling pot on the sunniest windowsill. Now we have to disinfect the soil in the pot, because here it is better to play it safe than to hope that it will carry you through - after all, you do not want to then treat diseases in our vine. We use Fitosporin for the soil. And in order to support the little liana itself, we use spraying with Epin's solution. And for the roots we will buy Biohumus (instructions on the label). We repeat these procedures every ten days.

How to properly plant clematis yourself.

The potted seedling can be transplanted into the soil after the night frosts have passed. Before planting, the pot with the plant should stand outside in the shade for a couple of days to adapt.

The main thing to remember is that you need to dig a hole for it wide and deep enough - almost the same as for planting an apple tree 60x60x60 cm.If you have groundwater close to you, do not forget to put gravel or broken brick on the bottom of the hole with a layer of 10-12 cm so that the roots of clematis did not rot.

Everything depends on how the root system of the plant feels: abundant flowering, brightness of flowers, the number of new shoots and buds. And if the root system grows well and develops steadily, then everything will be in order for you. It is imperative to add peat, humus and turf soil to the planting pit, be sure to add glasses of ash. Stir this nutrient mixture in the pit and tamp it lightly. We plant the seedling in a pit at the same level as it grew in a purchased container - the roots should not be deeply buried.

Advice. If you want to get a bush with lush flowering, then you need to take care of intensive root formation. To do this, in the middle of the pit we make a hole below the general level by 10 cm and plant a seedling in it. At the same time, we pour a little sand on the root collar of the vine to prevent it from being damaged by putrefactive fungi. During the summer, we gradually pour fertile soil into the hole until it is completely equal to the general level of the planting pit. So we simulate the formation of roots, and with a strong root system, the bush will be healthier and there will be more shoots.

Watch the video: How to plant Clematis