Cherry laurel cancer
Question: cherry laurel cancer
we bought 20 cherry laurel plants in April and planted them in our planters. Previously we had others who died from canker cancer.
By planting the same in the pots we used the soil with pumice and slow release fertilizer.
After only a month and a half the following problem arose: the leaves began to dry on the edge and I started a treatment (on the advice of a nursery) of fungicide to be done once a week for a month, prolonged for another month as the problem persisted.
Now the leaves have brown spots more visible from the back and in any case also from the top of the same.
Many leaves are drying up and the plants are less and less thick, even the buds are already dark in color. We are detaching them as the problem arises.
Give us some advice on how to best take care of our hedge and on irrigation times (we have the drip one).
Hoping not to have to throw away these plants and trusting in your help, we send you our best regards.
Cherry laurel cancer: Answer: cherry laurel cancer
Dear Daniela, thank you for contacting us via the expert column of our website. Your question is particularly interesting and presented in a precise and clear manner. The symptoms you described, namely the presence of drying of the distal portion of the branches on most of the branches of your cherry laurel plants, suggest the presence of canker cancer. Cherry laurel plants affected by canker can be recognized by the presence of areas of desiccation that make the branches appear dry, as if burned by something. In the presence of canker, the desiccation begins from the youngest parts of the plant, in particular from the 1-2 year old shoots and subsequently expand to the secondary branches up to the main stem. In the infected branches you can see leaves that at first become dry and then turn yellow and discolor until they reach a brown color. The infection spreads more quickly from secondary to main branches and if left untreated it can cause the plant to die.
The triggering agents of the infection are the pycnidia, reproductive elements of the deuteromycetes fungi that produce conidia from the infected organs, which are transported the following spring by the wind or other agents until they meet suitable conditions to initiate a new infection ( high relative humidity of the air, temperatures above 20 ° C and lesions on the plant that allow pathogens to enter).
To avoid the onset of this disease, precautions must be taken that can significantly improve the health of the plant. First of all, irrigation must be provided in an adequate quantity to the real needs of the plant, avoiding exceeding the quantities of water. Excessive irrigation of the plants leads to an excessive water content of the soil which causes asphyxiation of the root system and therefore a worsening condition of the plant's health. Between one watering and the next, it is always necessary to wait for the soil to dry to allow the substrate to dry out and aerate well. Another precaution to keep in the cultivation of cherry laurel is to avoid providing an excessive amount of nitrogen through fertilization. Nitrogen improves the vegetative growth and favors the growth of the branches but on the other hand, it can trigger a weakening of the branches and therefore a greater sensitivity to attack by pathogens.
From the point of view of active interventions to counteract rameal cancer, we recommend instead to remove all infected areas starting from at least 15 cm below the infected area with the cut point. When we make the cuts we must also be careful and clean the blades between cuts, disinfecting the areas of the instruments that have come into contact with the fungus. In addition to treating infected plants, it is finally necessary to check that there are no other infected plants nearby because the spores of the fungus also move through the wind and if there are foci of infection nearby it is easy that these can infect our plants again.
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Description and origins
The cherry laurel It is a shrub or small tree belonging to the rosaceae family and to the vast genus of prunus. It can reach a height of 10 meters and, in nature, has an expanded shape.
It has elliptical to oblong or obovate leaves, up to 20 cm long and 6 cm broad, pointed at the apex and generally not very toothed. The upper part ranges from shiny yellow to very dark green. The lower part, on the other hand, is pale green.
The bark is gray-brown, smooth and the flowers are 8 mm wide, white, with 5 petals and fragrant. They are collected in erect racemes, 12 cm long, in the axilla of the leaves in mid-spring. It happens that they bloom again in autumn. The fruits are berry, round and 1.2 cm wide, first green, then red and black when ripe. It is native to southwestern Asia, especially Armenia, and eastern Europe. Its habitat of origin is the forest thickets.
In nature the plant is disseminated thanks to the animals and in particular thanks to the blackbirds and starlings which feed on its fruits by expelling the seeds far from the place of origin.
Precisely because of this reproductive capacity throughout Europe it has become an invasive plant and in many countries efforts are being made to hinder its spread.
Prune laurelGood morning, I would like to know if I can prune the cherry laurel hedge in this period, having not been able to do it before, I would not want to do it in March so as not to disturb the birds that nest there.
Sick cherry laurelhi, I wanted to ask you how to solve the problem that concerns a part of my laurel hedge, practically the leaves dry up all over the outside and gradually coming up to the inside, co.
Cherry laurel with rameal cancersHi, I have a problem with a cherry laurel hedge. The leaves are all scorched (dry) at the edges. In addition, some plants have dried the branches from the bottom to the top, branches.
Rameal Cancer, what you need to know
The rameal cancer it is a very frequent alteration, caused by a large number of pathogens (Phomopsis, Coryneum, Sphaeropsis, Cytospora, Coniothrium, Nectria, Phoma, Fusicoccum, Dasyschypha, Septogloeum, Gloeosporium etc.), of both fungal (cryptogamic disease) and bacterial nature, which easily settles through various trunk injuries and branches.
They can affect almost any woody plants, both deciduous and evergreen, including conifers, therefore trees and shrubs, both spontaneous, ornamental and fruit.
Plant disease, what damage does it do
The insects that sting an infected plant suck the sap with the pathogenic bacterium, and then move to a healthy plant and infect it: the manifestations occur during the summer. During pruning the water drops carried by tools, such as pruners and shears, or sliding on branches, can transmit fungal infection: in this case, the infection occurs from the end of autumn to the beginning of spring.
Initially on sprigs, branches and trunks appear reddish-brown hollows and leathery appearance. Then the depression splits lengthwise and the bark tears, revealing the wood underneath. At the edge of the lesion, the tissues swell, while the bare part groans a gummy liquid. The whole area appears swollen and humid (but then tends to dry out).
If left untreated, the rameal cancer it expands by wrapping the whole branch in a sleeve within a year of the first symptoms. The downstream part of the branch dries up, losing the yellowed and dried foliage. From a distance, the diseased plant has one or more dry and bare branches within a green foliage. There are no obvious differences between a fungal and bacterial cancer.
Rameal cancer on apple tree
Rameal cancer, treatment and prevention
Avoid any kind of accidental injury (the lashing of the brush cutter is very dangerous!). Check the plants after a period of intense frost or a hail, which causes wounds on the branches. Disinfect with bleach or alcohol the pruning shears passing from one plant to another. If you notice any wound, and always after pruning, do a light treatment with copper salts.
If you see sick portions, immediately cut the diseased wood by carving at least 30 cm inside the underlying healthy wood (which must appear clear, without stains or diseased brown areas). Immediately eliminate the infected material, if possible by burning it, otherwise throw it in the unsorted garbage. Disinfect the cutting tools between one plant and another. Immediately after the cuts and after each spring rain, carry out treatments with copper salts at the maximum dose indicated on the label.
Generalities Cherry Laurel Plant: n
The Cherry Laurel plant is a very common shrub in Italian gardens. It is a vigorous and resistant shrub, evergreen, with dense and compact vegetation, the leaves are oval, lanceolate, with a toothed margin, dark green in spring, small white star flowers bloom. Before placing the Cherry Laurel plant, it is good to prepare a large planting hole, where we will work the soil well, enriching it with manure and a little sand. The Cherry Laurel plant needs to be exposed to direct sunlight. The soil is kept dry by slightly moistening it once a month. n
- Vase 7cm, Height 5 / 15cm n
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Cancer laurel ceraso - garden
I have a problem with my cherry laurel hedge.
In practice I have noticed that for about a month
some plants were losing leaves.
Looking closer, I saw with horror that it also has some of the kegs
with resin production.
Here are the photos of one of the 2 plants involved:
looking around i saw that it is rameal cancer,
as explained here
Apart from pruning the affected branches and burning them.
What do you advise me to give?
On the site speaks of fungicide to disinfect and putty for
Do I go to the consortium and what do I ask?
Or do you say they know?
DUKE HYDROXIDE to be repeated after three weeks, you have to spray it all over
the plant, trunk, branches and leaves, better if you use a petrol atomizer
which does the best job in these cases.
cut as low as you can even if the affected branches appear to be healthy, or if you see
which are whole plants compromised too much, eradicate them completely "e
while cutting disinfects the cuts with spray and duke "and immediately burns the
branches as soon as they wither, do not wait for them to dry out otherwise they scatter
spores in the millions of billions.
then repeat the treatment every year as a prevention when there are many
new and tender leaves, that's mainly time for the fungus
infects the plant.
no bergamot no because to extract the essence is a process that is done a
industrial level, at home and too volatile, I don't even try.
but I have lemons, oranges, clementines, "clepo", tangerines of a thousand thousand kinds
and a thousand thousand photos of orange blossom flowers :-)
instead as soon as I find it I have to get the chinotto, whatever you can
try to candy and then make us the iced drink, but damn me misery
they asked 50 euros for a seedling. they take them from I don't know where,
Calabria perhaps, but too expensive, at the weekly market there is someone who sells
seedlings of all kinds (he also has mangoes to say) but with a weight of gold !! every
time I see it is my damnation :-P
I took these while they still have oranges and flowers, pick them
the oranges and smell the scent of orange blossom, and you do not regret anything in the world
you're right, cmq: absurd prices.
beautiful pictures. )