Miscellanea

Tillandsia

Tillandsia


Tillandsia is a prominent representative of bromeliads and belongs to perennial herbaceous plants. In nature, it is found mainly in the southern United States and in Chile. The wide species diversity of Tillandsia allows it to grow in a wide variety of climatic conditions - it is found both in mountainous areas and in semi-deserts and savannas. Adapted to such variable weather events, the plant acquired different species characteristics.

Description of tillandsia

Some plant varieties may have a hard stem, others may not. Depending on this, terrestrial or epiphytic species of tillandsia are distinguished. Suspended varieties of this plant have oblong narrow leaves 25 centimeters long and 1 centimeter wide. Foliage can vary in color from gray to green. Rosettes of green tillandsias are formed by flat leaves with scales. Some species have a smooth leaf plate that can be up to 40 centimeters long. The bright pink bracts of tillandsia form a large, spike-like inflorescence. At home in a pot, a plant can live no more than five years.

Tillandsia care at home

Most of the bromeliad family does not require scrupulous care, tillandsia is no exception. The plant will grow well and look healthy even with the most basic care rules.

Lighting

It is important to remember that this houseplant does not tolerate direct sun, therefore it must be shaded from its hot rays, especially in summer. The intense heat is also detrimental to her. Although the plant requires bright, diffused light throughout the year.

Important! Tillandsia epiphytes require even more significant darkening.

Temperature

The temperature regime of the content is the same for all types of tillandsia. In the summertime, it fluctuates between 20 and 28 degrees Celsius. It will not be superfluous to keep a flower outside in summer in a not hot place. The lower temperature threshold that Tillandsia can withstand is 18 degrees. Therefore, hypothermia of this bromeliad flower should not be allowed in winter.

Watering

A huge need for moisture in an indoor flower is observed in the summer: the soil in the pot must be constantly moist. Moreover, water can even be poured into the outlets themselves. The same goes for spraying. It should be regular and abundant. The winter watering regime is somewhat different from the summer one. The topsoil should dry out before watering again. In winter, the flower is watered and sprayed with soft and heated water.

As you know, pendant tillandsias lack roots, so they capture nutrients from the surrounding air. Therefore, such species need even more regular spraying of the leaves and air around. A full shower of warm water will also benefit the atmospheric beers.

Air humidity

Anita subspecies does not need such abundant spraying as, for example, epiphytes of this family, for which moisture is the main factor in the absorption of nutrients. Due to such a high demand for high humidity, hanging tillandsias do well in special florariums. In contrast, Anita's tillandsia pot can be simply placed on damp pebbles or moss.

The soil

Prepared soil can be purchased at any flower shop. Orchid mix is ​​best for tillandsia. For self-preparation of suitable soil, take one part of leafy soil, peat, sphagnum moss and mix it with the addition of crushed charcoal.

Top dressing and fertilizers

The fertilization regimen for tillandsia is in many ways similar to that of orchids. Every two weeks of summer, the foliage of the plant should be sprayed with a complex mineral fertilizer for flowering plants in a concentration reduced by half. It is better for them not to water the soil, so as not to damage the weak root system.

Tillandsia transplant

After the flowering period, the adult plant dies off, so it does not need to be transplanted into new soil. Transplanting is required only once if the flower was purchased in a store. Then the store soil in which it was for sale is replaced with a more fertile composition. The pot is chosen corresponding to the root system, that is, not deep, but wide enough. It is not recommended to water Tillandsia after planting for the first 7 days.

Reproduction of tillandsia

At home, you can get a new young tillandsia plant from children or from seeds. The first method is the most common and easy to use, since more time and effort will have to be spent with seeds.

Reproduction by children

Side shoots of tillandsia are often called babies. They begin to appear vigorously when the mother plant blooms. To preserve the flower, after it has bloomed, you need to plant separately young ten-centimeter shoots, which have roots. The mixture for them is prepared by mixing peat and sand in a 1: 1 ratio. The complete rooting and strengthening of such a baby takes about 2-3 months, after which the shoot can be transplanted into a permanent pot with soil mixture for orchids. The process can be simplified if the maternal tillandsia has one daughter shoot - the old plant is simply removed, leaving the baby to grow in the same soil. Anita's tillandsia planted in this way will start flowering in 2 years.

Tillandsia epiphytes reproduce even easier - by dividing into bundles. The parts collected in this way are inserted into the prepared supports with wet moss, where they can continue their growth.

Seed propagation

Tillandsia seeds can be harvested by yourself or purchased from a store. The germination container should contain a mixture of peat and sand, which must be well watered before sowing. The seeds do not need to be sprinkled, they are simply spread evenly over the surface. The entire container is placed in a bright place and covered with transparent film or glass. The seed temperature should not deviate much from 25 degrees. After planting, the shoots will sprout in 4 weeks, and such a plant will bloom in 5 years.

Tillandsia care during the flowering period

Anita's tillandsia usually has a flower in summer. However, various factors can influence this process, and flower stalks can begin to form at any time of the year. The bright inflorescence of the bracts appears first, followed by small bluish flowers. This entire period lasts about two months. After that, the faded parts should be removed in the same way as the old foliage.

You can stimulate the appearance of flowers by spraying the plant with a preparation from Zircon on a weekly basis. This is done if Tillandsia Anita does not flower for a long time.

Diseases and pests

A healthy plant is usually not prone to infestation with scale insects and mealybugs. Pests can appear in a flower that is weakened by transplantation or errors in care. To save tillancy, all parts of it must be washed with soap and water, dried and applied with insecticides.

Fungicides are used to treat a flower when a fungus has overcome it. This disease is also a consequence of non-observance of the correct conditions for keeping tillandsia.

Indoor tillandsia cannot be called a whimsical plant, but for its healthy growth and development, minimum requirements must be observed, taking into account the flower's needs for lighting, moisture and nutrients. Only then will she delight the eye with her exotic beauty for a long time.

Popular types of tillandsia

In nature, there are about 400 species of this plant. Only a few of them can be grown as a pot culture. Epiphytic plants are characterized by the absence of roots, therefore, for their successful cultivation, stands made of wood, plastic or metal are enough. Watering in this case is replaced by regular spraying. Despite the fact that green tillandsias also have a poorly developed root system, they grow in the ground like ordinary houseplants. Of particular value in such species are bright spike-shaped inflorescences.

Tillandsia Anita

Perhaps the most popular variety of this plant. Bred as a Tallandsia blue hybrid, Anita is very decorative in appearance. Its scaly leaves are narrow and spiky. They form a rosette, in the center of which, on a short stem, there is a blue flower surrounded by pink or lilac bracts. Despite the fact that the flower fades quickly, its bracts remain bright for a long time, gradually turning green.

Tillandsia usneiform

Of the epiphytic tillandsia varieties, this one can most often be found in home premises. The leaves of this plant are in the form of threads, with scales and are gray in color, their length is about 5 centimeters. They hang down in a cascade, so it is convenient to grow them on stands. In such conditions, the leaves can reach 1 meter in length. In the people of Tillandsia, Usneiform is called Spanish moss or Old Man's Beard. It blooms in the warm season, but its flowers are not particularly attractive because of the faded yellowish or bluish color.

Tillandsia tricolor

The plant belongs to the green varieties. A dense rosette of Tillandsia tricolor is formed by thin twenty centimeter scaly leaves, rather narrow and pointed. The long stems of the peduncles are erect. On them are spikelets of inflorescences, sometimes even several of these spikelets. This flower got its name "tricolor" thanks to the multi-colored leathery sepals, which form a red-yellow-green inflorescence. The tillandsia flower itself is located on a long stem of 7 centimeters, has petals painted in purple. The plant blooms in the summer.

Tillandsia Flabellata

The rosette of this tillandsia resembles a three-color tillandsia rosette. The main decorative value in it is represented by bright orange-red bracts with an unusual tubular shape.

Tillandsia. Nursing and reproduction.


Tillandsia - home care

Tillandsia is a genus of evergreen epiphytic and terrestrial plants of the Bromeliad family, growing in the tropical and subtropical regions of the American continent. The genus was first described by the French botanist Charles Plumier, but the name Caraguata, borrowed from the Aboriginal language, did not like the famous naturalist Karl Linnaeus, and he renamed the outlandish plant Tillandsia, thereby perpetuating the memory of the Finnish scientist Elias Tillands.

I must say that the attitude of flower growers to an exotic American woman is very ambiguous, and here's why: all tillandsias have an incredible appearance, although they are strikingly different from each other. Among them there are plants that can be confused with lichens, while others form a rosette of leaves that looks like a fantastic flower. Conventionally, representatives of the genus can be divided into 2 groups:

  • Tillandsia atmospheric - capricious aeroepiphytes with silvery-gray leaves and a small number of roots. They are grown on wooden supports or driftwood with remnants of bark.
  • Potted tillandsias are green-leaved species that grow in pots with a substrate like other indoor flowers.

If you have succeeded in indoor floriculture and are dreaming of a new unusual pet, take a closer look at tillandsia. You will love it!


Tillandsia was presented to me by my work colleagues last year. I had seen this plant in stores before, but did not know what it was called and how to care for it. Once they gave it, I figured it out.

TILLANDS - WHAT A PLANT, APPEARANCE

So, the plant (and this variety is called Tillandsia Anita) looks like a small rosette of thin green leaves, in the middle of which a bright pink peduncle rises.

The peduncle consists of scales and is somewhat reminiscent. a pineapple. And this is not surprising, since both tillandsia and pineapple belong to the bromeliad family.

Pay attention, my flower was in a tiny pot - only 5 cm in diameter, but it felt great. The fact is that this is an epiphytic plant, that is, in nature it grows not in the soil, but on other plants (trees), while having a very poorly developed root system.

TILLANDSIA CARE

  • Transfer. Taking into account the undeveloped root system, I was not at all sure that it was necessary. But since I hoped that the plant would continue to grow after flowering, I decided to transplant. In ordinary soil, tillandsia will be bad, because her roots can rot. Therefore, I transplanted it into a substrate for orchids (this is a soil mixed with expanded clay and pine bark).
  • Watering. Very careful because can rot the roots. The best way to water is by spraying the leaves - I have done so, and very rarely added a little water to the root.
  • Lighting. Avoid direct sunlight. When Tillandia appeared, it was deep autumn in my yard at home, so I was more worried about not the sun's rays, but the lack of light. Sometimes in the evenings I put my flower under a regular table lamp with daylight.
  • Top dressing. It is recommended to use water-diluted orchid dressings that are sprayed on the leaves. Before transplanting, I fertilized tillandsia a couple of times, after transplanting this was not necessary, because fresh soil contains all the necessary trace elements.

About 3 weeks after the settlement of Tillandsia at my house, I noticed the first flower:

Then my tillandsia gave 2 more flowers, also symmetrically located at the same level. They were even smaller and more inconspicuous.

This ended the flowering.

After the end of flowering, the plant. dies: (Alas. It can give children - I didn’t manage to find out how they look. As I understand it, these would be small outgrowths-rosettes that could be planted. And I was really looking forward to them, but they never appeared.

  1. Perhaps I just had a very small and weak specimen. In stores, I saw plants much larger and stronger.
  2. Perhaps due to the very dark autumn and winter (in our city last year there was an extremely dark December), the plant simply did not have enough light to continue growing.

If you bought Tillandsia, which gave children, then everything will not be easy either. After separation from the parent plant, the children will grow for a couple of years, and then it is not known whether they will give flower stalks or remain ordinary green rosettes.

Tillandsia is a cute little interesting plant with easy care.

But I can't recommend it, because I do not like "disposable" plants that are thrown away after flowering due to the difficulties of further care or simply death.


Types of indoor flowers of this type

  • Usnia-shaped tillandsia, the second name is mossy. This atmospheric plant is devoid of roots, and clings to branches with thin stems. The length of the shoots is only 15–25 cm. Then new ones are formed, but the old ones do not die off. Gradually, generation after generation, lush whips grow, similar to beards. Usnia-shaped leaves are narrow, subulate, covered with whitish hairs. In summer, the tops of young shoots are crowned with modest green-yellow flowers.
  • Tillandsia silver has the same leaves as in most atmospheric species: thin, threadlike. In the sun, the plant appears silvery. The main feature is the thickened base of the rosette, which looks like an onion rejuvenated. It blooms in small blue-red flowers.
  • Tillandsia Bootsy (butzi) looks like a tangled bundle of green wires. Only by looking closely, you can understand that this is a living plant. But the thickness of the leaves is uneven. At the tips, they are thin, and at the base they expand and form a pseudo-bulb. The maximum plant height is 40-60 cm.Flowers - long, tubular, with pink bracts and purple petals. Bootsy, unlike most tillandsias, produces many babies even before flowering.
  • Tillandsia Andre is very decorative due to its thin, curved leaves, but there are varieties with straight leaves. In any case, there is brown or gray pubescence. Andre's height is no more than 25 cm. The peculiarity of the species is that there is almost no peduncle (ear), that is, the buds bloom at the very base of the rosette.
  • Violet tillandsia differs little from the rest of the atmospheric ones, but in summer it transforms. Purple or white flowers appear on a spike-shaped peduncle. The leaves inside the rosette change color from silvery green to red.
  • Tillandsia Medusa's head really looks like a marine life. The swollen and curled leaves resemble tentacles. The peduncle is flat, bright pink, the flowers are blue. After flowering, the spike changes color to golden yellow.
  • Tillandsia Blue is named for its purple, bright blue or blue flowers. It is a herbaceous species, grown as a pot culture. The leaves are narrow and long (up to 25 cm) collected in a rosette. They are green along the entire length, but red-brown at the base, plus brown stripes run along each leaf. The pink or red peduncle has the shape of a flattened spike, the maximum height is 16 cm, the width is 7 cm.
  • Tillandsia Anita during flowering is very similar to Blue, since it is its hybrid. In addition, atmospheric tillandsia was used to create the species. As a result, the leaves of this herbaceous plant have a gray tint.
  • Tillandsia Douera comes with narrow leaves, like atmospheric ones. Duers with wide leaves are also bred. The inflorescence is a large and flat ear. Moreover, it is not dense, like that of Blue and Anita, but loose, growing on a long petiole.

Many growers mistakenly believe that all tillandsias with green leaves are terrestrial, herbaceous, and those with gray leaves are atmospheric. In fact, many hybrids have been bred with thin leaves, like atmospheric ones, but green in color, and there are herbaceous ones with gray leaves.

Determining which tillandsia is in front of you, will help its appearance in the store. If it is attached to a snag, used in compositions with branches, pebbles, shells, then it is atmospheric. Terrestrial is sold as a regular indoor flower, in a pot with a substrate.

Tillandsia atmospheric in the photo


For the first time I saw Tillandsia in flower shops 2 years ago. Then I still thought that such a bizarre plant could hardly be to someone's liking .. Moreover, for some reason the price for it was very inadequate - about 200 hryvnia.

And so, in the summer of 2019, walking through the mall, I wandered into the department with a markdown on houseplants, where Ripsalidopsis stood in rows (I wrote about it in a review for cucktus), and several vases with Tillandsia.

All these flowers looked sad: half-dead plants that urgently needed to be saved.

If I then took the most unfortunate ripsa (with the shape of its leaves it resembled my once poured flowerpot before its death), then from two Tillandsia pots, I chose the one that did not have such dried leaves. The ear of one, that of the second was already green.

At that time I did not suspect that this was already a faded plant, which often dies in this state.

Alas, I have no photos left from those days. I didn't really sympathize with this plant, but took it only for a couple to the ripse.

As a result, the flower cost me 25 hryvnia (about 70 rubles, or 90 cents).

Arriving home, as usual, I transplanted the plant into a new pot, watered it, and left it on the windowsill.

Later, having searched the Internet, in search of a name (that is, I did not know the name of the plant either), I came to the conclusion that my Till is Vriezia :).

I read that the plant needs to be watered directly into the outlet, and in fact this is what I was doing. That was all the care I devoted to this strange flower :)

As time went. The ear (which I called the tail at that time) began to turn yellow, and I decided to tear it off so that it would not pull nutrients from the leaves. Perhaps this is what saved Till.

The ear gave in without any problems, I only had to turn slightly so that it would disappear.

After opening the "tail" (hard and hard), I finally realized that the plant has bloomed! At that time, the plant lived in my house for 3 months already, managed to dissolve several new leaves (rosettes?) Inside itself, and did not look as exhausted as on the day of purchase.

After I tore off the ear, the plant began to grow intensively, which could not but rejoice me. I continued to water it only into the outlet, managed to pour fertilizer into it, and watered the soil itself only occasionally (once a month) so that the earth would not dry out. I also sometimes sprayed the plant with a spray bottle.

I poured water with ordinary water, from the tap, but settled.

My world collapsed when I again saw a new delivery of tillandsia in the same shopping center, and found out that my vriezia, and not vriezia at all :) That was this year, before March 8 :)

It turned out that I in vain watered it with water directly into the outlet - they do not like stagnation, and my girl stood in the water for several days. It also turned out that you cannot water the tillandsia with nitrogen fertilizers (of course, I supplied the plant with them).

And, you know, until I found out the real name of the plant, read reviews about it and so on, my life was somehow calmer.

It seems to me that I just came across a very strong plant that survived my improper watering, and several fights with a cat, and nitrogen fertilizers.

At the moment, my Till is doing well. And if I previously wanted her to bloom again (although many say that this is impossible, in principle), now I desperately want her to remain as it is.

A little about the climate.

It's always hot in my house (about 25 degrees in winter, and all 35 in summer), so I water my flowers every 2-3 days. An exception is the autumn-spring period, when the heating is turned off and the temperature drops to 18 degrees. Then I water my plants once a week.

Till is standing at my northwest window.

I water it as before - in sockets, contrary to all the advice and rules.

I cannot say that I am greatly attracted by the appearance of this plant, but it was my specimen that turned out to be not very whimsical and strong, for which many thanks to him.

The size of Tillandsia is not large, it reminds me very much of a pineapple hat.

I think I was just lucky with the flower. For a long time I did not know his real name, devoted little time to him, and perhaps that is why he grew up strong, knowing that there was no place to wait for help).

I can recommend it only to those who are not afraid of the possible death of the plant.


Top dressing

Tillandsia responds well to fertilizers, but overfeeding the flower is strictly prohibited. In addition, compositions containing nitrogen, copper, boron and zinc cannot be used for these purposes. Also, do not feed a tropical guest with universal drugs, any growth stimulants, and organic matter in the form of infusions of grass, bird droppings and mullein.

How, then, to fertilize the culture? Give preference to bromeliads and orchids. But choose solutions that do not contain boron and copper, which are poisonous to tillandsia. And also keep in mind that you need to use only a quarter of the dose that is indicated on the package.

Apply fertilizer from March to September directly into the flower outlet, combining top dressing with watering. Host this activity once every six weeks. In winter, exclude feeding completely.


THE LEGEND OF THE INDIAN Tribe

Tillandsia usneiform widespread in the lower reaches of the Mississippi River. It hangs in great abundance from the branches of swamp cypress trees, creating a mysterious atmosphere. One of the Indian legends is associated with this plant. Once a young man and a girl met and fell in love with each other so much that they left the tribe and began a solitary life. They lived happily ever after, wandering from place to place. But suddenly the woman fell ill and died. The inconsolable widower buried his beloved, but first he cut off her long braids and hung her in the trees. After a while, the braids turned gray, and the gray strands of hair still flutter on the branches.


Watch the video: CONHEÇA 12 VARIEDADES TILLANDSIA PLANTA DO AR EXTREMAMENTE EXÓTICA E LINDAS.