Red Plum Tree Leaves: Why Are Leaves Turning Red On Plum Tree
By: Liz Baessler
Fruit trees can cause a lot of worry. They’re a big commitment, and if you count on their harvest every year, noticing something wrong can be a real scare. What should you do if you notice your plum tree leaves turning red? How can you tell what’s wrong? Luckily, red plum tree leaves can mean a lot of different things, and just how the leaves are changing color can help a lot in diagnosing. Keep reading to learn what red plum tree leaves mean, and how to combat plum tree problems.
Why are Leaves Turning Red on Plum Tree?
Rust and root rot are the most common reasons for plum leaves turning red.
One cause of red plum leaves is rust, a fungal disease that results in bright yellow spots on the leaves with red spores on the undersides. It can be treated by spraying fungicide monthly leading up to harvest if the outbreak is early, or once after harvest if the outbreak comes later.
Phytophthora root rot can manifest itself in discolored, sometimes red leaves. The red leaves may start on just one branch, then spread to the rest of the tree. The red leaves are accompanied by dark root crowns, sap oozing from the trunk, and brown spots on the bark. This problem is usually caused by improper drainage or overwatering. To fight it, dig up the topsoil around the tree to let the root crowns dry out.
More Plum Tree Problems Causing Red Leaves
Bacterial leaf spot is another possible cause of red plum tree leaves. It begins as black or brown spots on the underside of the leaves that eventually disintegrate, leaving a hole surrounded by a red ring. Prune your branches back for better air circulation. Apply fixed copper in the fall and spring.
Coryneum blight can appear as small red spots on young leaves that eventually disintegrate, leaving behind a hole in the leaf. Spray with fungicide.
Leaf curl twists and curls the leaves, coloring them red along the curled edges. The leaves eventually drop. Remove and destroy all the dead leaves and any other debris to keep the disease from spreading.
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Read more about Plum Trees
Currant and red currant bushes, growing delicious currants
Currant bushes, some of which are called gooseberries, produce marvelous small currant berries in summer.
Current facts about Currant
Name – Ribes grossularia
Family – Grossulariaceae
Type – fruit tree
Height – 40 to 50 inches (100 to 120 cm)
Exposure – full sun
Foliage – deciduous
Flowering – May
Harvest – July-August-September
Planting, pruning and care must all follow good practices to increase the harvest.
How to Care for a Hawaiian Ti Red Sister Plant
Ti is a sacred plant in Hawaii, offering spiritual protection to the bearer of the leaves. In ancient Hawaii only the ali’i (royalty) were allowed to wear the leaves as a talisman.Today the plant’s foliage is a popular element in many Hawaiian religious rituals and even common people can grow and use it. Growing the “Red Sister” variety (Cordyline terminalis “Red Sister”) adds a pop of hot pink color to the garden. “Red Sister” ti plants grow in humid areas of U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 10b through 11.
Grow “Red Sister” outdoors if air temperatures remain between 65 and 95 degrees Fahrenheit.
Space “Red Sister” ti plants 3 feet apart if you grow them outdoors.
Grow “Red Sister” in an area that receives bright sunlight. Place it close to a south-facing window if you are growing it indoors.
Water an outdoor-grown “Red Sister” ti plant overhead to provide additional humidity. The plant requires consistently moist soil at all times, whether grown indoors or out. Place a humidifier in the room where you keep the indoor plant or mist it with water from a spray bottle daily to provide humidity. The more often you mist it, the more humidity you will provide.
Fertilize “Red Sister” every three months from spring until August with a 6-2-4 fertilizer. Use 20 to 40 pounds per 1,000 square feet outdoors and 2.5 ounces for a 5-gallon planting pot. Water the soil to a depth of three inches before and after fertilizing.
Cut back overgrown “Red Sister” ti plants in early spring to within six inches of the soil. Cut it back to 1 foot high to encourage the plant to grow bushier.
Inspect the plant periodically for pests. Mealy bugs, insects from a number of genera in the Pseudococcidae family, are the most common pests and can be controlled by spraying the plant with insecticidal soap spray.
10 Garden Plants With Red Leaves
The accepted convention is that greenery is beautiful. When people cultivate gardens in their apartment, they want to have some greenery in their house. However, you can beg to differ and say that too much of greenery is boring. Greenery is beautiful and soothing but a dash of colour can actually make a green spot interesting.
A dash of colours can come only from non-green plants. The commonest variety of these non-green plants are those plants that have red leaves. Some of these are red foliage plants and others are trees that have red leaves. Maple is a classic example of a tree with red leaves at any point in time. But there are several other foliage plants that are red.
The advantage of having a red foliage plant in your garden is that, it gives your garden volume and colour. Also, they take lesser place than the huge trees with red leaves.
So, here is a list of 10 plants that have red leaves and can be cultivated in your small apartment garden.
Plants with red flowers
Discover some of our favourite plants to grow for red flowers.
Published: Tuesday, 17 December, 2019 at 2:00 pm
The colour of red flowers is caused by the presence of certain biological pigments in the petals, such as carotenoids, anthocyanins and betalains.
Red-flowered plants, chosen wisely, can be the crowning glory of a planting scheme. Grow them alongside plum-coloured blooms for a sumptuous border or container display. Or combine with zingy oranges and cornflower blues for bolder effect.
Plus, hot borders wouldn’t be complete without red blooms combined with spicy yellows and oranges.
Check out our handy Plant Finder to discover lots more red-flowered plants.
Discover 10 of the best plants with red flowers, including perennials, shrubs and climbers, below.
Poppies are one of the best known red flowers to grow. Annual poppies include (Papaver rhoeas, Papaver commutatum, Papaver somniferum, while the popular perennial poppy of choice is Papaver orientale. All enjoy a spot in full sun.
When grown in the UK, mask flowers (alonsoa) are usually treated as annuals, though, as perennials, it’s possible to overwinter them. Growing to around a metre tall, they’re ideal for the middle of borders.
Dianthus, or pinks, are cottage garden favourites. Grow these short-lived perennials at the front of borders or in containers. If you dislike the more showy cultivars, try growing Dianthus cruentus – a gorgeous species with single, magenta flowers.
There are a huge variety of dahlias to grow, red cultivars included. For pollinators, choose single varieties like ‘Bishop of Llandaff’ or the bronze-leaved ‘Tally Ho’. Here’s our advice on how to lift dahlias for winter.
Bergamot (monarda) is a tough, herbaceous perennial that grows best in moist soils. The foliage is aromatic and the shaggy blooms are loved by bees. For scarlet blooms, grow a cultivar like ‘Cambridge Scarlet’ or ‘Squaw’.
Salvias with red flowers to grow include ‘Silas Dyson’ and ‘Royal Bumble’. They’re best planted in a sheltered spot in full sun, in a moist, well-drained soil.
Intense-red, narrow flowers of salvia ‘Honey Melon’
Crocosmias are much-loved for their sprays of hotly coloured flowers. One of the best known red-flowered cultivars is ‘Lucifer’. Others include ‘Hellfire’ and ‘Harvest Sun’. Try combining with perennials like Verbena bonariensis and calamagrostis grasses.
There are lots of roses with red flowers you could grow. To cover garden boundaries and structures, try a climbing rose like ‘Parkdirektor Riggers’ (pictured). If you’re after a deep red rose, ‘Black Beauty’ is one of the best.
Callistemons are unusual plants, also known as bottlebrush plants, owing to the striking red flowers. The foliage has a lovely, lemony scent. Grows to the size of a large shrub or small tree.
Peonies are gorgeous and robust plants, with lots of red-flowered cultivars available to buy and grow. For year round structure, try a tree peony like ‘Shin Jitsugetsu Nishiki’, or for fragrance, take a look at ‘Monsieur Martin Cahuzac’, which has a rich, spicy scent.
Good bugs in the garden -- and six really bad ones
Even on those hot summer days when a slamming screen door can't stir up a breeze, a circus of activity is going on in the backyard. Insects are meeting, mating and devouring each other in their very own backyard Bugville. Now before you say "Ewww, bugs," consider that those insects help keep your yard healthy without toxic insecticides.
It's been a bug-eat-bug world for a long time -- long enough that they've pretty much got the drill down. Unfortunately, humans tend to get in the way, building and fencing and spraying.
But there are ways to encourage the natural predatory process. Identification of good bugs vs. bad bugs will make the process easier. To help, we've provided profiles of some common insects in the Northwest. Robin Rosetta, entomologist with the
, has this advice for attracting beneficial insects to the yard:
-- Tolerate low populations of pests so beneficial bugs have some prey. They won't come if they don't have anything to eat.
-- Grow a diverse selection of plants, including those that attract insects. Some candidates: fennel, sweet alyssum, Queen Anne's lace, parsley, yarrow, spearmint, hairy vetch, crimson clover, caraway, cosmos, bishop's weed, blazing star, coreopsis, golden marguerite, sunflowers, candytuft and coriander.
-- Provide shallow basins of water so they have something to drink.
-- Avoid chemical insecticides that kill pests but also kill predators.
-- Be patient. The good guys will come.
-- If you decide to buy some beneficial bugs to add to the natural population in your yard, remember that you'll need to release them more than once. Because most are shipped live and must be used right away, you'll have to keep buying them fresh.
More a nuisance than a real pest, boxelder bugs want to move indoors for winter. If you can keep them out now, they'll disappear once cold weather makes an appearance.
Eastern and western boxelder bug
About 1/2 inch long, brownish-black to black with distinctive red markings on its side and wings. In the immature stage, it is bright red.
Deciduous forests, gardens
In spring, adults emerge from winter shelter and fly to maple trees to lay eggs in bark crevices or on foliage. Eggs hatch in summer and young start feeding on tree foliage. In fall, adults leave trees to find a warm, dry place to spend the winter. There's one generation a year.
Most common on female boxelder trees (
), hence the name, but also visits other maples and some fruit trees. It feeds on the leaves, which can cause some damage but usually very little. Humans are more likely to be annoyed because boxelder bugs tend to head for the house, sometimes in large numbers, during fall.
Caulk openings and cracks around doors and windows and repair screens. Get rid of debris and leaf litter near the house, especially around foundations, to reduce the shelter they need to overwinter. Don't plant female boxelder trees. Vacuum up any bugs that get inside. Don't squash bugs they can leave a stain. If the problem isn't severe, don't worry. Boxelder bugs don't bite, don't carry disease and don't reproduce inside the house. If you have a severe infestation, consult a reputable pest-control company.
Anyone who's ever had a houseplant has seen mealybugs, fluffs of white that seemingly appear out of nowhere and turn to cottony masses overnight. They get their name from their mealy-looking coating.
More than 100 species, including obscure mealybug, cypress bark mealybug, long-tailed mealybug and citrus mealybug.
Mealybugs tend to congregate in large colonies on stems or leaves. Because all ages group together, various sizes will be seen in one area. Males, rarely seen, are tiny winged insects.
Bugs suck plant sap, weakening tissue and causing stunted, distorted, discolored, spotted or yellowed foliage. Large infestations can cause premature leaf or fruit drop. Mature plants rarely die but can look stunted and unhealthy. Mealybugs excrete honeydew as they eat, a sweet, sticky substance that promotes growth of sooty mold fungus, which looks like black goo on leaves.
You name it. Mealybugs are common on houseplants and in greenhouses.
In some species, females give birth to live young. In others, they lay as many as 600 eggs, which hatch within 10 days. Young nymphs crawl all over the plant and to other plants. Soon after they begin feeding, white waxy filaments appear, covering their bodies with cottony fluff. Mealybugs become less mobile as they mature.
Inspect plants before you buy. Indoors, isolate infected plants. Wipe off mealybugs with a soft, wet sponge, soft toothbrush or cotton swab dipped in alcohol. Outdoors, rinse plants with a stiff spray of water or spray with insecticidal soap. Encourage natural predators by planting wide range of pollen- and nectar-rich plants. Control ants that tend mealybugs for the honeydew they secrete. Use ant stakes at the base of affected plants or apply sticky material around trunks.
Evergreen azaleas and rhododendrons
Eggs look like brown spots along the veins on the underside of evergreen azalea and rhododendron leaves. Adults are about 1/4 inch long and have wings covered with a network of black and white veins. Sometimes confused with the many species of lacewings, which are beneficial insects, lace bugs can be recognized because their wings lie flat lacewings hold them up like a tent.
Lace bugs pierce leaves and suck out the chlorophyll, which causes yellow dots on the topside of leaves. You'll see black feces on the underside of leaves. Eventually, foliage turns white, which is a sign the plant is not long for this world.
Lace bugs usually become active in mid- to late May and early June, when they start laying eggs, but can get going earlier during a mild winter. The bug is especially persistent because several generations are produced in one year, each one as hungry as the last.
Because of how fast they reproduce, control is difficult. Keep plants healthy by planting in part shade rather than full, watering regularly and mulching the soil.
Nontoxic methods of control include horticultural oil, insecticidal soap and neem-based products. Chemical insecticides kill important pollinators and beneficial insects that kill other pests.
Robin Rosetta, an entomologist with the Oregon State University Extension Service, has been conducting extensive research, including a sabbatical focusing on the pest insect. She has
Chemical insecticides are discouraged for home gardeners because of their negative impact on bees and other pollinating insects.
TOMATO HORNWORM (covered with braconid wasp cocoons)
Tomato hornworm, corn earworm
imported cabbage worm
If you have a vegetable garden, you've more than likely run into one or all of these common pests, all hungry caterpillars when they do their damage. The most dramatic is the tomato hornworm, the most common is the cabbage worm, and the most serious in its economic impact to agriculture is the corn earworm.
COMMON NAME/LATIN NAME:
With its large size (as long as 4 inches), distinctive markings and angry-looking horn, the
is enough to cause quite a start when glimpsed in the garden. The pale green caterpillar has diagonal white stripes, tiny black spots along the stripes and a larger, ringed black spot at the bottom of each stripe. In spite of its menacing looks, the horn at the rear is harmless. Adults are mottled gray moths with a wingspan of 4 to 5 inches and rows of orange dots along the sides of the abdomen.
grows to nearly 2 inches and varies from light green to pinkish-brown to black with stripes running lengthwise along the body. Whiskerlike spines sprout from dark warts on the body. Adults are night-flying, yellowish-tan moths with a wingspan of 1 1/2 to 2 inches.
IMPORTED CABBAGE WORM (with adult cabbage white butterfly)
are about 1 1/2 inches long with a fine, light yellow stripe down the back. Adults are the common white moths with black markings often seen in gardens.
All three of these troublesome critters overwinter in soil or on host plants in the pupae stage and emerge as adults around May, when they lay their eggs. After several days to a week, caterpillar larvae emerge to feed on our favorite veggies for two to four weeks. Then they pupate, emerge as adults and start all over again. There can be one to four generations per year.
As their name indicates, tomato hornworms prefer tomatoes, but they'll also make dinner of potatoes, peppers, eggplant and tobacco plants. Corn earworms plague corn throughout the United States but will also attack tomatoes, peppers, beans, squash and sunflowers. Cabbage worms primarily eat anything in the cole family, including broccoli, cauliflower and Brussels sprouts. They appear to like red cabbage less than green cabbage.
All three worms are voracious foliage eaters and contaminate what's left with their feces. Hornworms also will eat into green fruit. Corn earworms will eat down through the kernels and feed on developing tassels. In tomatoes, earworms leave deep watery cavities. Cabbage worms will chew on the heads of cauliflower and broccoli.
Floating row covers keep adult moths from laying eggs. Handpick caterpillars. Spray Bt (
) for cabbage worms or when hornworms or earworms are small. Many natural enemies, including wasps, green lacewings and soldier bugs, will attack these pests. If you see small white cocoons sticking out of a hornworm, it's been parasitized by a wasp. For cornworms, apply a teaspoon of mineral oil to the tip of each ear of corn when silks appear, to deter egg-laying moths. Pinch the top of each ear with a rubber band to keep caterpillars out. Insecticidal soap can control small larvae, and insecticides with pyrethrum or neem are also recommended. At the end of the growing season, clean up debris and weeds that could be used as hosts or alternative food sources. Rotate crops.
This familiar insect may look spiritual as it perches with front legs folded prayerfully under its chin, but don't be fooled. If anything, it's praying for food while it waits to ambush its dinner. And, if that doesn't convince you of deadly intent, its cannibalistic habits will.
Praying mantis or praying mantid
Stagmomantis carolina, Mantis religiosa
Long, thin, green or straw-colored body ranges from 3/8 inch to nearly 6 inches long. Two front legs are stout and strong, lined with sharp spines used to impale and hold onto prey. Thinner middle and back legs are used to grab hold of twigs or stems. Triangular head and bulging eyes give it a monsterlike look, especially when the head swivels back and forth or the praying mantis looks over its "shoulder," a hauntingly human attribute unique in the insect world. Newly hatched offspring resemble their parents, only tiny.
Meadows and gardens throughout the world, particularly in temperate and tropical regions. Carolina mantid is native to the United States. Chinese mantid was introduced in 1896 as a beneficial insect. European mantid was accidentally introduced in 1899 on nursery stock. Because they do not live through cold winters, praying mantises are not as common in Oregon and Washington as they are farther south.
During fall mating, the smaller male hops onto the back of the female. If he misses, he can become dinner for his darling. Even if he doesn't, the female may turn and devour his head while mating. But no matter his body is capable of completing mating even without his head. When mating is completed, the female, hungrier than ever, will finish eating her hapless mate. Then she lays groups of 12 to 400 eggs, which are covered in a frothy liquid that turns into a hard, protective shell. In spring, baby mantises emerge, often eating each other as their first meal. Cute, aren't they?
Almost anything that moves is fair game. Baby mantises tend to go for aphids and other small, slow-moving insects. Larger ones prey on all manner of insects, including honeybees and other pollinators. They'll even dine on salamanders, toads, frogs, lizards and hummingbirds.
Well, it's cool-looking and has interesting habits. Although often touted as a beneficial insect, the praying mantis is pretty ineffectual as a biological control. They produce only one generation a year, so their population can't increase in response to rising pest populations they'll eat each other, especially when young, further depleting their population they tend to eat fast-moving insects instead of poky aphids, caterpillars and beetle larvae that bother gardens they hang out and wait for prey to come to them and they eat beneficial as well as pest insects. That said, it's worth buying an egg case to watch them hatch, especially if you have children in the house. They will disappear if there aren't other bugs to eat, but some will probably hang out. To keep them around, don't use chemicals, and plant some tallish meadow plants (they particularly like goldenrod) for cover.
Myths about praying mantises abound. One comes from the Chinese, who believe that these insects have curative powers, including the ability to stop children from wetting the bed when they eat the roasted egg cases. Needless to say, no one in the United States is lining up to volunteer as a test case.