Why pear leaves turn red

Why pear leaves turn red

Often, amateur gardeners can observe the following picture: they planted a pear seedling in the country, it pleases the owner for a year, three, six and already bears fruit well, when suddenly the leaves on it begin to turn red. In some cases, a young seedling can be saved, but sometimes a young pear just dries and dies slowly.

What is it? Why does the foliage on the pear turn red? How to deal with this? Let's see ...

Scion incompatibility with stock

This case is the most hopeless. Nowadays, very few gardeners are engaged in grafting on their own, many acquire ready-made seedlings. And it is very easy to get a low-quality tree. And all because pears in nurseries are grafted onto different rootstocks. They are clonal and seed.

A seed stock is a plant that has been grown from a seed. Usually seeds of wild forest pear are used for this. A varietal twig is grafted onto a wild game and a wonderful seedling is obtained. And here the variety that was grafted is unimportant - the compatibility is always 100%.

Another type of rootstocks is clonal. They are grown from cuttings. Cuttings can be taken from pear and quince trees, and some other crops are also used. Such rootstocks have many advantages: short stature, the ability to accelerate fruiting and enlarge fruits, the ability to grow a tree with a surface bed of groundwater. However, not always the clonal stock and the variety can coexist harmoniously with each other.

The most offensive thing is that such incompatibility can reveal itself at any age and with a variety of symptoms. The most characteristic of them is swimming on the bark where budding was carried out.

It is a pity, but in this case you only have to uproot the tree and change it to a new one. However, this fact does not mean that trees on clonal rootstocks cannot be bought at all. Of course you can. But this should be done in large farms, where they really check the compatibility of rootstocks and varieties.

Lack of phosphorus

When, observing the foliage, you noticed that the redness goes unevenly, in spots, and first from the bottom, and the leaves still begin to curl - most likely the lack of phosphorus provoked this trouble.

You can heal the tree with the help of mineral fertilizers. From April to mid-July next year, it is advised to spray the pear every two to three weeks using an ammophos solution.

Constant flooding or nearby groundwater

Pears do not like excess moisture and systematically flooded areas. Therefore, redness on the leaves may well occur due to waterlogging.

How can we help a tree? If it is hindered by the accumulation of melt water or stagnation after heavy rainfall, it is necessary to make drainage grooves - they will take away excess moisture. When the pear is in the lowland, the only possible help is to transplant the tree higher.

Recessed landing

When we figured out how to plant a pear correctly, we paid attention to the fact that the tree does not tolerate deepening. Since at the same time its roots often rot, and this leads to problems with sap flow and, accordingly, to reddening of the foliage.

When planting, you need to be very careful and try to ensure that the root collar (the section of the trunk that passes into the root) is located at the same height as the top layer of soil. If the seedling was planted not very long ago and you have suspicions that the planting depth is still too large, you should dig in a pear around the perimeter and, together with an earthen lump, raise it to the desired level. Such a task is, of course, quite difficult, but doable. Some of the amateur gardeners also raised seven-year-old seedlings.

Pear diseases

Red leaves on a pear can be triggered by various diseases. But then they do not blush entirely, but show red spots. For example, such a defect can occur due to black pear cancer and certain fungal diseases.

Naturally, there is no joy in tree diseases. But, at least, we know how to deal with them. It is only necessary to correctly determine the specific disease of our pear, and to begin medical measures as soon as possible so as not to lose the plant.

Red spots on pear leaves - what is it?

Many gardeners face this problem. A pear grows for a year, two, three and more. Everything is good, the harvest is wonderful. But one "fine" morning the gardener notices red spots on the leaves of the tree.

What does reddening of the leaves mean? Should I sound the alarm? The fact is that there are two outcomes in this situation: after the treatments, the culture recovers, or the next year it completely dries up and dies. You will learn further about why the leaves of the pear turn red, what to do if red dots appear on the leaves of the culture and how to get rid of the pear disease.

1. Potassium deficiency

If a red rim appears on the leaves of an apple or pear (the so-called marginal burn), then the tree does not receive potassium. This is often accompanied by nitrogen starvation, since with a potassium deficiency, plants are unable to absorb nitrogen from the soil.

Apple tree leaves with signs of potassium and nitrogen deficiency

The problem can be solved by fertilizing trees with potassium chloride (100 g per 1 square meter of the trunk circle) or ash (1 tbsp of ash is diluted in 1 liter of water and this amount of fertilizer is poured under each tree). Foliar dressing with a solution of potassium salt (50 g per 10 l of water) will not be superfluous. In nitrogen starvation, plants are fed with ammonium nitrate (100-150 g per 1 sq. M) and sprayed with a 0.5% urea solution.

Pear bacterial diseases and treatment

A group of diseases caused by unicellular organisms penetrating into plant tissues through stomata and pores, or injuries of any origin:

  • in time not oiled cuts left after pruning a pear
  • frost
  • wounds left on leaves and fruits by pests
  • damage to the bark and shoots.

Externally, bacterial diseases of pear appear as rot, the affected areas first become covered with oily spots, then turn brown and die off.

Pear bacteriosis

The disease manifests itself in the spring with a darkening of the edge of young leaves. Therefore, it is initially confused with frostbite. Gradually, the leaves of the pear turn brown completely, the disease spreads to the petioles and shoots. On the cut of the branches, darkening of the wood is visible - this is a defeat of the vascular system of the plant.

Pears of any age can be affected. Treatment consists in removing the affected branches and treating the tree with copper-containing preparations.

Bacterial burn

A dangerous infectious disease that proceeds quickly and often leads to the death of a pear. The bacteria, along with the juices, are carried through the tissues and cause their death.

Treatment is carried out by spraying with copper-containing drugs or antibiotics. In case of severe damage, the infected branches are removed. If the disease is left unattended for a long time, the pear may die.

Pear bacterial cancer (necrosis)

The disease causes damage to the skeletal branches and stem, usually on adult fruiting pears. First, small cracks appear on the bark, then they grow and turn into wounds surrounded by brown spots. The pear leaves and fruits turn red, flowers and shoots turn brown. Then the vegetative organs dry up, but do not fall off.

Dark rings and stripes are clearly visible on the cut of pear branches affected by bacterial cancer. The disease softens the wood, it becomes brown, wet. Often in the spring, the bark first swells, then bursts and remains hanging in rags.

This disease can be easily introduced to healthy plants, if you immediately go to work on a healthy tree from an infected pear. Insects take part in the spread of necrosis, but rarely. The bacterium often invades the apical buds and damaged areas, and occasionally penetrates the stomata.

The disease oppresses the pear, reduces its yield, and sometimes destroys the tree. Even if the infection is detected on time and timely treatment is carried out, it is impossible to completely get rid of it.

Bacterial cancer on a pear can be prevented or slowed down, not cured. Anyway

  • the affected branches are removed, capturing about 10-15 cm of healthy tissue:
  • cuts are treated with garden varnish or special paint
  • if the disease spreads to the stem, it is cleaned by cutting out all the diseased wood and part of the healthy
  • prepare a chatterbox from a mixture of mullein and clay (1: 1), diluted to the consistency of sour cream with Bordeaux liquid, coat the wound surface with it
  • a bandage impregnated with a copper-containing preparation is applied on top.

The pear is treated with copper-containing preparations in spring and autumn.

Why did the pear's leaves turn red?

Brown spot causes great harm to the pear: it reduces the yield and winter hardiness of the tree.

- A young pear (5 years old) does not take root well: it is staggering, apparently, it is poorly rooted. Last year there was not even an increase in fruit, but this year, it is true, there were already more pears, but still, this is not a harvest. In addition, I noticed that the leaves on all the pears in the garden in some places (not all) with black spots, and on this young pear, before the fall of leaves, they also turned red. What could it be?

- Judging by the symptoms described, this brown spot is the most common pear disease, which causes great harm to it: it reduces the yield and winter hardiness of the tree.

In your case, you need to fight not only with brown spot, but also against a complex of diseases in general, since the development of one disease provokes other diseases, for example, scab. In the spring, during the swelling of the buds, you need to treat the tree with "Azofos", and then during the growing season you need to carry out at least 3 - 4 treatments with other fungicides, alternating, for example, "Delan" and "Tersel". If the disease is pronounced, then it is worth using the drug "Skor" every other time, which very well removes the problem of brown spot. And if the disease manifests itself, say, after a year and does not progress, then you need to work on prevention with any fungicides. It is better to alternate them so as not to become addictive and not to grow new strains of the disease in your area that will be resistant to this drug.

But the fact that your pear does not take root well and staggers may have several reasons. If the seedling initially took root poorly, then the reason lies, most likely, as a planting material in which the root system was poorly developed. But if such a problem arose spontaneously and recently, then it is worth paying attention to the root system of the pear, perhaps it was damaged by rodents. To test this, dig up a little tree on one side and see if there is any damage to the roots. Most often it happens that there are large roots, the tree seems to be linked to the ground, and the small roots that grow back are eaten by rodents - so the tree cannot feed and hangs in the soil. In this case, you need to buy the drug "Storm", which is specially used against rodents, and spread the seeds (the drug is available in tablets) near the tree.

A tree with a damaged root system receives less nutrients and risks dying during an unfavorable winter. Every winter for such a weakened tree is a test. Young trees, whose roots and tender bark are the only food for rodents, are most at risk. And so as not to put young trees at risk in winter, tie their trunks with spruce branches.

Why did the pear's leaves turn red?

Redness of the foliage in a pear may be due to a lack of phosphorus.

- Pear 5 years old, medium-sized. Fruiting well, but only this year her leaves turned red, especially at the top of the crown. There are red leaves on which small black spots have appeared. Two pears are growing nearby, but everything is fine with them. Tell me what happened to the pear?

Valentina Iosifovna, Minsk.

- There may be several reasons for this phenomenon. First of all, reddening of foliage can be associated with a lack of phosphorus. In this case, the leaf begins to blush not all at once, but from the lower part of the leaf blade, starting from the petiole. In this case, it will be necessary to carry out active fertilizing with phosphorus fertilizers at the beginning of the next season. Since phosphorus is poorly soluble in water, the best option is to spray the plants with Ammophos. It is necessary to start processing from April and continue until mid-July, since there is a proportion of nitrogen in modern phosphorus fertilizers, which is undesirable to use as top dressing in the second half of summer. Top dressing should be applied every 2 to 3 weeks.

The second reason may be associated with waterlogging of the soil, due to which the respiration of the roots is impaired. The reason may be a lowland, a close occurrence of groundwater, stagnant water after rains. If a tree was planted in a lowland, then it will already be constantly oppressed. Therefore, if possible, it is better to transplant the pear to another place in late autumn.

If the moisture near the tree is not critical, the water does not stagnate there constantly, then to drain the moisture, for example, after a heavy downpour, you need to dig drainage grooves around the tree.

And another reason why the leaves may turn red is the incompatibility of the rootstock and the scion. It is possible that you could have purchased low-quality planting material. Not all pear varieties are created equal. Moreover, incompatibility can manifest itself at any age and to varying degrees. The first bell of incompatibility between the stock and the scion is the formation of heats on the bark at the bottom in the place of budding. If the tree continues to show itself in this way, it means that it will need to be grubbed and replaced with something else. Moreover, it is better to choose pear seedlings on a seed, and not on a clonal rootstock.

What is the difference between a seed stock and a clone stock?

When a plant grown from a seed is taken as a basis, it is a seed stock. As a seed stock, gardeners most often use wild forest pear. Seedlings are grown from the seeds of this pear and varieties are grafted onto them by budding. The seed stock allows you to get stable planting material regardless of which pear variety reproduces on it.

A clonal rootstock is obtained from an adult plant by cuttings (a branch is cut off and rooted). Simply put, the plant is duplicated by cuttings, a clone is obtained with the same set of properties of an adult plant. Clonal rootstocks have less vigor of tree growth, yield faster, fruits grow larger - in a word, they have a good effect on the variety. But clonal rootstocks also have disadvantages: they are not all well compatible with varieties.

We treat pear for spotting

- Brown spots appeared on the young pear by the end of summer. Moreover, the spots are round and convex. Tell me what the pear got sick with?

- There are two possible reasons. As a rule, brown spots on the pear are associated with the manifestation of a disease such as pear brown spot. You need to fight the disease at the beginning of the season. Since spring we have been treating with "Azofos", which is suitable for the prevention of all diseases. Then you need to process the tree a few more times: before flowering, we use Skor, after flowering and fruit setting, we treat it with Delan, and then sprinkle with Tersel or Skor with an interval of two weeks. This complex of treatments is a good protection system that will remove the problem of not only brown spot, but also septoria and scab.

It is impossible not to focus on this problem, since any damage to the leaf plate is a violation of the activity and nutrition of the tree. As a result, the tree does not prepare well for winter, due to which it may not winter.

By the way, damage to leaves by a mite can also appear in the form of brown convex spots.You can fight the pest with the help of the preparation "Masai". You can also use "Omite". Against the tick, you need to process the pear twice a season. Depending on how the weather conditions develop, they are processed once before or after flowering, the second time in the middle of summer. Apply the drugs strictly according to the instructions.

Why pear leaves turn red

Reason one: incompatibility between rootstock and scion

This is just the saddest and most hopeless case. Not many gardeners are now planting their pears on their own, most buy ready-made seedlings from nurseries. At the same time, it is easier to buy low-quality planting material. The fact is that pears can be grafted onto seed and clonal rootstocks.

A seed stock is a plant grown from a seed. Most often, wild forest pear is used for these purposes. A varietal branch is grafted onto the game and an excellent seedling is obtained. At the same time, it does not matter at all which variety was grafted onto the wild - in this case, there are no problems with compatibility.

A clonal rootstock is a plant grown from a cuttings of an already mature tree. Both pears and quince or some other crops can act as “suppliers” of cuttings. Clonal rootstocks have many advantages: they are undersized, they contribute to the acceleration of fruiting and the enlargement of fruits, they allow you to grow pears with a fairly close occurrence of groundwater due to the surface root system. But not all clonal rootstocks and varieties are compatible with each other.

The most offensive thing is that this incompatibility can manifest itself at any age and in different ways. One of its characteristic features is swimming on the bark at the place of budding, something like this:

Unfortunately, incompatibility between scion and rootstock can only be cured by uprooting the old tree and replacing it with a new one. Sad but true. This does not mean, of course, that it is by no means possible to acquire seedlings on clonal rootstocks. It is possible, and sometimes even necessary. However, it is best to do this in large nurseries that use compatible rootstocks.

Reason two: lack of phosphorus

If you notice that the leaves of the pear turn red unevenly, in spots, if the lower part of the leaf first turns red, starting from the petiole, if the leaves also curl inward, the reason for this disgrace is most likely a lack of phosphorus.

This problem is solved with mineral fertilizers. At the beginning of the next season (from April to mid-July), every 2-3 weeks it is recommended to spray the pear with a solution of ammophos.

Reason three: flooding or near groundwater

Pear trees do not grow well when groundwater is close to water, in flooded areas. And the leaves can easily turn red from an excess of moisture.

What to do in this case? If the pear is flooded with melt water or water stagnates at the planting site after heavy rainfall, drainage grooves should be dug to drain excess water. If the pear grows in a lowland, constant waterlogging will not allow it to grow and develop well, and the only option is to transplant to a more elevated area.

Reason four: deep landing

In the article on the correct planting of a pear, we already mentioned that this tree does not tolerate burial. With a deeper planting, the roots are more likely to rot, die, and the death of active roots will certainly lead to problems with sap flow and to consequences such as reddening of the leaves.

During planting, it is imperative to ensure that the root collar (not the grafting, but the place where the trunk transitions to the root) is flush with the top layer of soil. If you planted a seedling not too long ago and suspect that your pear is too deep, you need to dig in the tree from all sides and, together with a lump of earth, raise it to the desired height. This, of course, is not the easiest task, but doable. Some gardeners even raised seven-year-old trees.

Reason five: pear disease

Finally, reddening of pear leaves may be associated with tree disease. However, in this case, the leaves do not turn red completely, but become covered with red spots (it happens with such a disease as black pear cancer and with some fungal diseases).

Of course, there is nothing joyful about plant diseases, but at least we are used to dealing with them. It is only necessary to determine what exactly our pear got sick with, and to start treatment in a timely manner so as not to lose the tree.

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