Aloe transplant video, aloe propagation by dividing the bush
Aloe tree transplant video. How to transplant aloe, in parallel dividing the bush into several small ones. What kind of soil is needed, how to carry out this operation.
Tree aloe transplant video
4.511111Rating 4.50 (8 votes)
Digging tulips - how and when
Ficus bonsai transplant
How to avoid mistakes when growing aloe
In order for the green inhabitant of our apartments to delight with their beauty and protect the health of household members, it is important to know its features and to replant it regularly. For aloe, the most comfortable corner is the light southern windowsill. Unlike other indoor flowers, it feels great under the bright rays of the sun. In a dark room, it stretches out, the foliage becomes pale. In the summer, you can rearrange the flowerpot on a ventilated loggia or take it out into the garden, creating a slight shade for young sprouts at midday.
Dividing the bush and separating the processes
Dividing a bush and separating shoots is the easiest way to propagate indoor plants. This allows you to rejuvenate a plant that has become cramped in a pot and get a plant already with roots, one or two stems or with a rosette of leaves.
By division during transplantation, most rhizome plants can be propagated, which have a strongly overgrown rhizome underground and which have several buds. The part to be separated must have a bud and roots. In this way, aspidistra, chlorophytum, sansevier, primrose, bells, cyperus, arrowroot, bamboo, orchids, ferns, asparagus, etc. reproduce well.
Division is a vegetative way of plant propagation. From a large bush, shoots are separated, each with several stems or rosettes, preferably with roots. A young plant begins to grow rapidly and soon you will get a beautiful plant, more developed than those obtained from seeds or cuttings. It is best to divide in late winter or early spring, when the plants begin their growing season. Wait until the end of flowering if you want to split the flowering plant.
You can divide all plants that give off shoots or form small bushes around the base, as do succulents with leafy rosettes, such as aloe, echeveria, haworthia. Most bromeliads reproduce by division, like flower saintpaulias, streptocarpuses.
It is very easy to divide plants whose stems come from tubers or from fleshy roots. This applies to such decorative deciduous plants as aspidistra, asparagus, dieffenbachia, arrowroot, tradescantia, as well as ferns. Bulbous plants are also propagated by division, and the children are separated at the end of the dormant period. Palm trees reproduce very poorly by division. They are best propagated by seed.
Division is the easiest way to propagate orchids with pseudobulbs, simply by separating the bush into parts with roots, but at the same time, it is advisable to leave three sprouts on each part.
Transfer the plant from the pot to a pallet, gently shake off excess soil. Examine the rhizome and decide how many parts you are going to divide it into. It is better to break the rhizome with your hands, but if the rhizome is very strong and does not break, you can resort to using a sharp knife. To prevent diseases, sprinkle the damaged areas with crushed coal powder. Rosette plants such as Saintpaulias are best separated by hand, carefully separating the rosettes from one another.
Sometimes it is possible to separate the branch at the edge of the bush without removing the mother plant from the ground. After that, it is necessary to fill the void that has formed with the transplant substrate. But as a rule, to divide a bush, it is necessary to remove the plant from the pot and, after separation, transplant it into separate pots. Gently free the roots from some of the substrate in order to clearly see the shoot. Do not divide the bush into many small parts. It will take them a long time to develop into a beautiful plant. But it is better to separate a small bush with three leaves. If you have to divide an adult large plant, you need to remove the old and bald branches.
If the roots are tangled, if the plant has a woody stem or sprouts along the entire length of the tuber, a sharp knife should be used to cut the tuber or fleshy roots. If the bush is very dense, you need to untangle the roots as carefully as possible, if necessary, hold the earthen lump under a stream of water in order to wash off the substrate as much as possible and be able to properly dissolve the roots. If it is impossible to untangle them, cut off the processes from the bush with an budding or just a sharp knife.
Each individual plant should have multiple buds or one stem and multiple roots. If there are no roots on the separated part, then it should be planted in a substrate for young plants or for cuttings, which stimulates the emergence of roots. You can put some hormone powder on your incision. As soon as signs of rooting and normal development appear, the process should be transplanted into a regular substrate.
Aloe arborescens (Aloe arborescens)
Aloe arborescens is a succulent shrub up to 3 m tall, growing on rocky mountain slopes and river valleys in South Africa.
The stem is widely branched (8 cm thick). Aloe leaves are xiphoid, pointed at the end, up to 60 cm long, bluish-green, succulent, with sharp curved teeth along the edge.
The flowers are tubular, swollen at the base, up to 2 cm long, yellowish-pink, in racemose erect inflorescences. Dense rosettes with 25-35 leaves. Blooms in winter, throwing out a flower arrow.
The flowers are bright red, yellowish red or greenish orange, 5 cm long. Blooms from January to April. The peduncle is simple, 80 cm high. The inflorescence is a brush.
Aloe does not tolerate air pollution well. Photophilous. Resistant to diseases and pests.
Watering the plants regularly and in moderation should avoid stagnant water.
Propagated by aloe seeds, cuttings and dividing the bush. In February - March, seeds are planted in bowls. The soil mixture consists of leafy soil (1 part), sod land (0.5 part), sand (1 part). Seedlings dive into boxes.
The grown seedlings are planted in 5-centimeter pots, adding a little broken brick and charcoal to the soil mixture (1 kg per half a bucket of the mixture). Watering is moderate.
In the spring, transshipment is desirable - a transplant, which is carried out in the sand to a depth of 1 cm. The distance between plants is 3-5 cm. Cuttings are carried out in the spring. Shoots are cut into pieces 10-12 cm long.
Places of cuts are sprinkled with charcoal, the cuttings are dried for 3-4 days, then planted in pots for rooting, deepening into the substrate with the lower end by 2-4 cm. After planting, the cuttings are tied to a peg.
Aloe cuttings are not sprayed, but watered occasionally, do not shade to avoid decay, and are kept at a temperature of about 18 ° C. When roots appear, watering is increased.
After rooting, they are transshipment. Plants are planted in 7 cm pots. Broken brick and charcoal are added to the soil mixture of the same composition as for seed reproduction.
Propagated by aloe and shoots. Care is the same as for cuttings. Young plants at the age of 3-5 years are transplanted every 2 years, later - once every 3 years or when the tub decays.
In summer, adult plants are fed every 2-3 weeks with slurry and full mineral fertilizer.
Aloe is recommended for rock arrangements, small compositions for indoor culture.
In the summer, plants are taken out to the balcony, you should choose a sunny, calm place for them.
Source: Landscaping Balconies: A Reference Guide. Alexandrova M.S., Krestnikova A.D., Moscow, 1991
Indoor plants in the interior. Kapranova N.N. Moscow State University, 1989
There are several ways to breed clematis. Let's take a look at the most common ones.
Reproduction of clematis by seeds is a rather troublesome task. Usually this method is used for breeding purposes. In this case, you need to know that most of the cultivated clematis are hybrids and are unsuitable for seed reproduction. Species plants of the culture have long periods of seed germination, depending on the size of the seeds.
Table: timing of seed germination, depending on their size
|Seed sizes||Seed length, mm||Seed width, mm||Germination rate||Sowing dates|
|Large||⩾6,0||⩾5,0||2-8 months||Late fall|
|Small||3—4||1,5—3,0||15-90 days||March, April|
Usually clematis is sown directly into open ground. Let us briefly describe this process using the example of small-seeded species.
- 2-3 months before sowing:
- Soak the seeds in water for two days.
- Place them in a container with wet sand and leave in a room with an air temperature of 0-5 ° C until sowing.
- Prepare a bed with loose and fertile soil.
- Grooves are formed on the bed with a depth of 2-3 cm with an interval of 20-25 cm.
- Prepared seeds are placed in the grooves at intervals of 20 cm.
- After the appearance of one or two true leaves, the seedlings dive, cutting off the roots by one third.
- The aisles are mulched in order to prevent overheating of the soil.
- During the season, the garden is regularly watered, loosened and weeded.
- In early spring, seedlings are transplanted to a permanent place. In this case, the root collar is deepened by 3-5 cm.
- Getting seedlings adapted to the conditions of the region.
- Increased winter hardiness compared to the parent plant.
- The method is rather complicated and lengthy. It takes some knowledge and effort.
- Impossibility of breeding hybrids.
Of course, it is possible to grow large-flowered clematis from seeds, but it is difficult, more precisely, for a long time (some germinate up to 8 months)! Small-flowered seeds, for example, Tangut, work well from seeds. I had it from seeds already in the first year, it was all in flowers! Small-flowered germinates quickly (2-3 weeks), if large-flowered, then be patient ...
I grew from seeds. Unfortunately, nothing good came of it. 5 sprouts have sprouted. In the second year, there were only 1. But he did not live to see the landing in the OG. These shoots are very fragile and delicate, they are susceptible to diseases, again. But maybe I was so unlucky, but you will succeed! Good luck!
And now I have my own, special clematis. I know that it is not supposed to propagate varietal clematis with seeds, and it is believed that the seeds do not ripen in our country. But I have grown a miracle from a seed, and an independent seedling. More precisely, not from me, she took it 2 years ago from my father, he asked very much, and I was afraid to offend, although I thought that nothing sensible would grow. He bloomed only now, for 3-4 years of his life. This is such a snow-white miracle! A flower with very dense wax petals, the whole glows, large, already 16 cm and continues to grow.
Correct division of the bush
This is a very effective method in which ready-made seedlings are obtained almost immediately. It is used for clematis over five years old. This is usually done when it is necessary to transplant the parent bush to a new place. It is best to do this in the fall or early spring before sap flow begins (before the buds swell). Consider the process of dividing a bush step by step:
- Water the bush abundantly so that the roots are moistened as deeply as possible.
- With the help of a secateurs, cut off all the stems, leaving 2-3 buds on each.
- Carefully dig in the bush from all sides, trying not to damage the roots.
- Carefully remove the bush from the soil, shake the soil off the roots and rinse them with a stream of water from a hose.
- The root ball is divided with a pruner or an ax into several divisions. Moreover, each should have a good bunch of roots and 1-2 shoots.
When dividing a bush, each section should have a good bunch of roots and 1-2 shoots
Older plants with a powerful root system usually do not dig out completely, but make the deepest and widest digging possible on one side. After that, the root is washed with a stream of water, and when it is sufficiently exposed, part of it is separated with a shovel or ax. Then the divisions are formed as described above. Next year, you can dig from the other side and get an additional amount of planting material.
- Fast production of quality seedlings.
- Full preservation of species properties.
- Rejuvenation of old plants.
- Root trauma.
- Quite a high labor intensity, especially when dividing old bushes.
Video: dividing the rhizome of the clematis bush into divisions
Layering (one of the best ways to propagate clematis)
This is the simplest, most understandable and at the same time effective and stable method. The seedlings are strong and healthy, as they receive nutrition from the parent bush until their own roots and shoots are fully formed. Rooting begins in May - June. For this:
- In the radial direction from the parent bush, one or more grooves up to 10 cm deep are formed.
- A low-lying stem selected for rooting is placed in each groove.
- The stems are fixed with wire staples.
- Lightly sprinkle the stems with earth, leaving the tops at least 20 cm long free.
- The grooves are watered abundantly.
- Watering is carried out regularly until the end of the growing season, preventing the soil from drying out.
- After sprouts appear from the nodes and reach a height of 10-15 cm, the grooves are covered with earth to the top.
After sprouts appear from the internodes and reach a height of 10-15 cm, the grooves are covered with earth to the top
Before planting clematis seedlings, they must be separated from the parent bush and from each other
- High efficiency, 100% survival rate.
- Stable result.
- No injury to the parent bush.
There were no drawbacks to the method.
Video: how to dig in clematis lashes to propagate a plant
Reproduction of clematis by cuttings is not the easiest, but popular way. It consists in the fact that cuttings are cut from the shoots of the mother plant, which are then rooted to obtain seedlings. For these purposes, both green cuttings and woody cuttings cut from young plants (2-5 years old) are suitable.
Home propagation by green cuttings in spring and summer
The survival rate with this method is 60-95%. Cuttings are harvested just before rooting from early spring to June - July (before flowering). I act like this:
- Choose completely healthy annual shoots. No more than one third of the shoots can be taken from one bush.
- At a distance of 30 cm from the ground, shears make a cut at an angle of 45 °.
For cutting green cuttings, an annual shoot of clematis is cut at a height of 30 cm from the ground
Cuttings 7-10 cm long are cut from the middle part of the shoot
The prepared cuttings are soaked in the rooting solution for 2-3 hours
Cuttings are inserted into the substrate so that they are buried to the middle of the internode
Roots appear on clematis cuttings 45-60 days after planting
I also tried many different methods, but only this one turned out:
in the spring, when the shoots have already grown quite a lot, I cut off the semi-lignified whip, cut cuttings from it with one knot. In a shady, damp place, I loosen the soil, stick 3 cuttings next to each other so that the knot is in the ground, and the leaves are outside (I try not to touch the leaves), cover with a glass jar, and so they stand all summer, I just make sure that the earth did not dry out. The cuttings do not grow, I just see that their leaves are alive, which means that everything is in order. In the fall, I take off the jar and cover them with leaves, and they hibernate like that. And in the spring, when it gets warmer, I rake off the leaves carefully. At first, nothing is visible, it seems that there is nothing in this place, but then a green bud appears and begins to grow rapidly.I do not touch the clematis this year, let it grow up, then I will put it in a permanent place.
How to breed clematis with lignified cuttings
Lignified cuttings are harvested in the fall from two-year-old shoots. Cutting rules are the same as for green cuttings, only the leaves are removed completely. Until spring, the cuttings are stored in a container with a moist substrate (sand, sawdust, sphagnum moss) at a temperature of 0-3 ° C. Rooting and subsequent transplantation are carried out according to the above rules. The survival rate of lignified cuttings strongly depends on the conditions of their storage and does not exceed 70%.
Video: an easy way to breed clematis with lignified cuttings
Regarding grafting, I did not practice it on purpose, but Rouge Cardinal put the cut pieces into jars with earth and covered it with a transparent plastic pot on top. Both pieces have taken root and are now growing and blooming safely. My pieces formed somewhere in February, March, stood on an unheated balcony, but I have a sunny side and the balcony door opens at night.
How to root cuttings in water
Rooting of cuttings can be done without the use of a substrate. To do this, you just need to immerse their lower ends in water by 3-4 cm and place the container in the shade. In this case, it is better to use rainwater, thawed, bottled or settled water. Fresh tap water will not work as it contains chlorine, which is harmful to plants. The water in the tank is changed several times a week (optimally every other day). After about 1–1.5 months, roots will begin to appear. When their size reaches 5 cm, the plants are planted in separate containers (glasses, pots, containers) filled with nutrient soil. Growing up is carried out at home or in a greenhouse.
To root cuttings, you need to use rain, thawed, bottled or settled water.
Rooting cuttings of clematis in bottles
Plastic bottles are widely used in horticulture and horticulture. A very successful bottle design was invented for rooting cuttings of clematis and other plants. For this:
- The bottle is cut in half (across).
- Drainage holes are made in the bottom of the lower part.
- Pour a drainage layer 3-4 cm thick. Suitable for this:
- expanded clay
- coarse sand, etc.
- Fill the bottle with the nutrient mixture.
- A prepared cutting is stuck into the soil, as described above.
Clematis cuttings are planted in the bottom of the bottle filled with nutrient mixture
Two weeks after planting the cuttings, the bottles are opened daily for airing.
There is a long-standing wonderful way of cutting everything and everything in five liters. It can be supplemented and complicated, but the simplest is enough for me. We cut the five-liter in half. We make drainage holes in the bottom. We fall asleep in the lower part of the loose soil (well, here, in general, there are a lot of recipes, everyone probably has their own), not reaching somewhere 5 cm to the edges. Install the cuttings. We spill. At the cap (the upper part of the bottle) in its lower part, in all corners, we make vertical cuts 7–8 cm long. Now this cap is easily inserted into the lower part. Naturally, we do not screw the plug. Small gaps are formed, but due to the fact that the lid is inserted inside, all condensate from evaporation will drain back into the bottle, and there will be a minimum of evaporation from it at will. In addition, you can remove the cover at any time and, for example, pull out weeds. Or pour it over. I am such a cuttings and clematis, and princes, and daphne, and pine needles, and, in general, everything is more or less small. The last two dry summers did not fail. I have such cuttings overwintering arranged side by side in large boxes and practically uncovered.
Advantages and disadvantages of clematis propagation by cuttings
The advantages of this method include:
- The possibility of obtaining a large number of seedlings, since the cuttings can be prepared quite a lot.
- Consistently high results with careful adherence to the rules.
- The process is quite complicated and requires constant monitoring and care.
- It is difficult to maintain the optimum temperature in summer.
- Relatively high labor intensity.
How else can you plant clematis
In addition to those described, there are some other, less known, methods of breeding clematis.
- A strong shoot is chosen, on which an oblique incision is made with a sharp knife up to half the diameter near one of the nodes.
- The incision is treated with a growth stimulant.
- Cover the incision with the knot with a thick layer of moistened moss.
- A polyethylene sleeve is put on top of the moss layer, which is tied tightly below and above the knot.
- The stem is attached to the support so that it can withstand gusts of wind.
To root the air layer, an oblique cut is made on it or a bark ring 1.5 cm wide is removed
A distinctive positive aspect of this method is the fact that the future seedling does not come into contact with the soil, and this, in turn, dramatically reduces the risk of fungal diseases. The main disadvantage is high labor intensity.
I will share my experience. It didn't work with green cuttings in one run, and last year I did this:
In the spring, after removing the shelter and the garter, I put on a bag without a bottom on one lash, tied it at a height of 10 cm from the ground, poured seedling soil into the bag, spilled it well and tied the bag again. It turned out to be such a candy, 20 cm on a stick. On top, a couple of layers of lutrasil from overheating. She put a block under it so that the whip would not break from the weight of the package. Everything. Over the summer, I untied the bag a couple of times and moistened the soil. This lash swelled like everyone else and bloomed. And in the fall the roots in the bag were stuffed and very thick. Moreover, they punched the package from below and got to the ground! Very good. This year I will indulge myself so much with all varieties. Hopefully someone will find a way for the lazy to come in handy.
This method is rarely used by amateur gardeners due to its complexity and the need to create certain conditions throughout the year. In this way, most of the seedlings are obtained in industrial conditions for their further sale. We will not describe it in detail, we will describe only the essence of the method. It consists in the fact that parts of shoots, cut in the same way as in green cuttings (grafts), are grafted onto pieces of clematis rhizomes (rootstocks). The scions are cut just before the grafting. Moreover, in winter, plants are specially grown indoors for this. The rootstocks are harvested by cutting the roots in the warm season, which are then stored in appropriate conditions (high humidity and temperature 0-4 ° C).
Reproduction of clematis can be done in various ways. The gardener can choose the most appropriate for specific conditions based on personal preference. When applying any of the methods described, you can get a decent result, carefully following the rules.
Planting stonecrop in open ground
When to plant sedum in the ground
Planting sedum seedlings in open soil is carried out in the last days of May after the threat of return spring frosts has been left behind. It is a picky plant, so you can choose both a sunny area and partial shade for growing it, but it grows best in the light. The site should be open and located away from deciduous shrubs and trees, the fact is that if the bushes are covered with foliage in the fall, then with the onset of spring he will not have the strength to break through it.
This plant is also unpretentious to the composition of the soil, it can be grown even on rocky soil, but in order for the bushes to be very effective, organic fertilizers (compost or humus) must be added to the ground before planting. Planting holes must be made in the ground, while the distance between them should be about 0.2 m, then the plants are transplanted into them. The planted seedlings need abundant watering. The flowering of bushes grown from seeds begins at 2-3 years.
Dividing the bush
Rarely, but still there are strawberry varieties (mostly remontant), which form a mustache rather reluctantly. And breeders have also developed special hybrids that do not form them in principle (Profusion, Raymond, Snow White, Ali Baba, Veska, and so on). For such strawberries, there is another vegetative propagation method that fully preserves the varietal characteristics - the division of the bush.
Some strawberry varieties bred by breeding are devoid of mustaches, so the easiest way to reproduce is no longer
This method has other advantages as well. For example, when multiplying strawberries with a mustache, you cannot simultaneously get from one bush both a bountiful harvest and high-quality seedlings. And in the case of dividing the bush, this is quite possible. New plants take root well in a new place. Practice shows that no more than 10% of outlets die.
For division, only healthy and productive strawberry bushes are chosen, marking them in advance
This method is only suitable for absolutely healthy plants with a developed root system. Selected bushes should be carefully examined for the presence of symptoms characteristic of diseases and traces of pest damage. The planting material will "inherit" all existing problems.
It is impossible to share strawberry bushes infected with any infection, as this problem will spread to new plants
The optimal age for division is 2–4 years. On too young bushes there are too few "horns", and the old ones no longer have a high yield. From one bush, depending on its size, you can get from 5 to 15 new copies. A prerequisite is the presence of a "heart" on each of them and at least a few roots.
A lot of new specimens can be obtained from one adult strawberry bush.
The best time for the procedure is the first half of August, although you can divide the bushes throughout the growing season. In a new place, the rosettes take root quite quickly, as a rule, this happens already in mid-September. The harvest, however, is not too plentiful, they give the next year. And a year later they reach the peak of fruiting. Experienced gardeners, nevertheless, advise you to wait and cut off all flower stalks that form during the first season in order to allow the bush to build up a developed root system and a powerful green mass.
There is nothing complicated in the procedure itself:
- The selected strawberry bush is carefully dug out of the soil. It is necessary to try, if possible, to preserve an earthen lump so as not to damage the roots.
A strawberry bush is dug for dividing, being careful not to damage the roots
The roots of a strawberry bush are much easier to separate if they are soaked in water beforehand.
When planting young strawberry rosettes, you need to be careful not to deepen the "heart"
If, as a result of dividing the bush, too small, clearly unviable outlets are obtained, they can be grown. Such bushes are planted in small pots or cups filled with a mixture of peat chips and universal seedling soil. It is imperative to be careful not to deepen the "heart". The plantings are watered abundantly, the pots are transferred to the greenhouse and kept there for 4-6 weeks.
Even the smallest strawberry rosettes should not be thrown away, if you grow them in a greenhouse or in a greenhouse, you get a completely viable planting material
Care of young plantings of strawberries
After transplanting to a permanent location, proper care is especially important. For the first two weeks, young strawberry bushes should be protected from direct sunlight. Plentiful watering is also required. Mulching will help keep moisture in the soil. It will also save the gardener time weeding the beds. About a month after planting, strawberries can be fed with potassium sulfate or any complex fertilizer for berry crops and carefully spud the bushes. The latter contributes to more active root formation.
New "horns" are planted in the same way as ordinary seedlings, observing the recommended distance between them
When planting between the bushes and between the rows, 35-40 cm are left. Humus is added to each hole, filling it about half, a handful of sifted wood ash and a teaspoon of simple superphosphate. The socket must be located on the soil surface. It is impossible to cover it with earth, otherwise the bush will die.
Video: the procedure for breeding strawberries by dividing the bush
Diseases of peonies. How to process peonies
Aphids, nematodes, caterpillars are those pests that can attack peonies. You need to know how to process peonies from this "misfortune". You can deal with them both using folk methods - by preparing the solution with your own hands at home using, for example, wood ash or tar soap, and by purchasing insecticidal agents. Wood ash is dissolved in a liter of water and sprayed on the stems and the inside of the leaf. Ashes are sprinkled on the ground around the bush.
If you notice gray spots on the leaves of a peony, its stems began to break, and the buds darken - this is a sign of a fungus called gray rot - one of the most common diseases of peonies. You can fight it with fungicides.
If the leaves of a peony curl and you notice yellow spots, this is a rust fungus. Fungicides to help you.