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Phlox in the fall: transplant to a new place

 Phlox in the fall: transplant to a new place


Phloxes are unpretentious and unpretentious, they can grow in almost any conditions. But to get a bright and luxurious flowering, you need to know some of the features of caring for them.

Phlox transplant: why and when

Like all perennials, phloxes require periodic transplantation, since their gradual degeneration occurs over time. Flowering becomes scarce, the buds turn pale and shrink. It is required to transplant and rejuvenate the culture at least once every 5–6 years.

In order for phloxes to constantly bloom profusely, they need to be transplanted every 5-6 years

You can change the habitat of phlox both in autumn and spring. In extreme extreme cases, this can be done even in summer. But the autumn transplant has a number of clear advantages:

  • the plant is at the end of the growing season, has practically stopped growing and is preparing for winter sleep;
  • the root system does not develop, therefore, its damage during transplantation is not so painful for the flower;
  • additional moisture is usually not required, since autumn rains are enough;
  • in spring, bushes planted in autumn bloom at the right time (with a spring transplant, flowering is delayed or does not occur at all).

It is better to replant phlox after flowering.

The best time for an autumn transplant of phlox is considered to be the period from mid-August to the last days of September (depending on the characteristics of the local climate). The bushes should root thoroughly in a new place before the onset of stable frosts, 35–45 days are enough for this.

The disadvantage of the autumn procedure for transplanting phlox can be considered the probability of freezing of the culture in a winter with little snow.

Phlox transplant technology

To grow phlox, you need to select a sufficiently illuminated area (light openwork partial shade is also acceptable) with constantly slightly moist, loose and moderately fertile soil.

Phlox grow well in illuminated places, but bloom more abundantly and brighter in light partial shade

The landing site is prepared in advance (2 to 3 weeks in advance). The earth is carefully dug to a depth of about 30–35 cm, freeing it from the rhizomes of perennial grasses with the introduction of fertilizing (by 1 m2):

  • humus (compost) - a bucket;
  • wood ash - 100–150 g;
  • potassium-phosphorus compounds - superphosphate (30–35 g) and potassium salt (15–20 g).

The transplant is done like this:

  1. The selected bush is dug out, keeping the earthen lump intact. The stems are pre-shortened by a third of the length.

    Before transplanting, all phlox stems are shortened by a third.

  2. Disassemble the roots, separating them from each other. Then, with a knife, the rhizome is divided into parts, in each of which a bunch of roots and several rudimentary shoots should remain (if dividing the bush is planned).

    Using a knife, the rhizome is cut into pieces

  3. Dig holes corresponding to the size of the root system of the seedling (about 20-25 cm deep), at a distance of 45-50 cm from each other.

    Fertilizers must be applied to the hole if the soil has not been prepared in advance

  4. The plant is placed in a hole, freely spreading the roots in different directions. The root collar should be 3.5 cm below the soil level.

    The seedling is placed in the center of the hole, the roots are straightened to the sides

  5. The well is covered with a substrate, compacted, trying not to leave voids.
  6. Water abundantly.

    After planting, the phlox bush needs to be watered well

  7. Mulch with humus or peat.

    Transplanted plants are covered with mulch for the winter so that they do not freeze

When planted too high, the root collar of the plant is exposed and becomes vulnerable to frost, and in summer it suffers from wind and sun.

If you plant phlox too high, then the root collar will be outside.

Phlox have been growing in our front garden for many years. But a young birch tree grew from an unknown seed. The tree grew, and the flowers gradually wither away, until they died completely. I managed to save only one bush with pink flowers, planting it further away.

Video: how to transplant phlox correctly

Video: replanting and dividing phloxes in the fall

Any novice florist can cope with growing phlox, you just need to adhere to a few simple rules. Timely and competent replanting of bushes guarantees their luxurious and long-lasting flowering.

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The growing season of cherry begins quite early, especially in its early varieties. Therefore, in the spring, there is a very high risk of not being able to transplant the tree while it is still dormant. The transplantation of cherries that have entered the growing season will greatly delay their rehabilitation, the tree in a new place will take root for a long time, later it will bloom, and will cease to bear fruit. If the trees have already entered the growing season, then it is better to postpone the transplant until the fall.

If the tree has entered the growing season, then it cannot be transplanted.

Late varieties of cherries wake up after hibernation with a noticeable lag behind the early ones. Therefore, they are transplanted in the spring. Also, spring transplantation is preferable in cold regions where winter starts early. In the fall, there is a great chance that the transplanted tree will not have time to take root in a new place and will die from frost. If the actual timing of the arrival of winter is close to the calendar, then the autumn transplant looks preferable for the following reasons:

  1. During the winter, the plant will strengthen the immune system.
  2. Trees transplanted in autumn begin to bloom and bear fruit earlier.
  3. Cherries adapt faster to a new place.
  4. The likelihood of developing diseases and the appearance of pests is extremely low.

The older the cherry, the worse it tolerates transplantation. Trees older than 10 years are transplanted only in exceptional cases, while the likelihood of their death is very high.

The steppe and felt varieties of cherries are very poorly tolerated, especially in adulthood. Even if the plants do not die after the work, their recovery can take a very long time.

Felt cherries do not tolerate transplanting very well.


Phlox care in the fall after flowering: feeding and pruning

Gardeners appreciate this plant for being very unpretentious. And all because the main care of phlox takes place in the fall.

Phlox care in autumn is:

  • top dressing,
  • pruning.

When it fades and the shoots begin to die, it is supposed to feed only those bushes that have been growing in one place for more than a year. Most often, fertilization is combined with another maintenance requirement - pruning.

Do I need to trim faded phlox? Necessarily!

Removing old shoots is necessary for several reasons. The first is associated with reducing the risk of spreading disease. In addition, pests hide for the winter on shoots with a height of 10 to 20 cm.

Preparing phlox for winter is mulching bushes, and cut bushes are easier to mulch and cover than uncut wilted branches.

You definitely need to know when to prune phlox for the winter, because this is due to the accumulation of nutrients in the roots. This will give the opportunity to grow strong new shoots in the spring.

The timing of when to cut phlox and roses for the winter is related to the weather conditions of a particular area. Most often, this period falls at the end of September - October. At this time, the soil has not yet frozen, but at times there are already night frosts. If the weather permits and November is predicted to be warm, then this plant can be cut in early November.

During this procedure, you do not need to leave any offshoots above the ground. All shoots must be cut off completely. An exception may be an area with little snow in winter. In this case, you can leave stumps about 5 cm high. Their function will be to retain as much snow as possible around the roots. In any case, in the open field, phloxes will not freeze, and planting and caring for them is greatly simplified.

Pruning should end with top dressing. For this, it is allowed to use any mineral fertilizer. Under each bush, you will need to take only one tablespoon of such a substance and pour it directly onto the frozen soil. It is recommended to scatter a handful of ash on the ground. Which, in addition, will still scare off pests. It remains only to mulch the landing. This should be done 10 days after pruning.


Autumn care of lilies before and after pruning

In addition to pruning, in the fall, to prepare for winter, lilies require feeding and treatment for diseases.

Top dressing

Immediately after these perennials have faded, under them fertilizers should be applied, which include potassium and phosphorus. For example one can use potassium sulfate (potassium sulfate) and superphosphate, 30-40 grams per 1 sq. meter of a bed or flower bed, or a special ready-made mineral fertilizer marked “Autumn ". For lovers of organic farming, suitable bone meal (phosphorus) and wood ash (potassium), 100 grams per 1 sq. meter.

Important! However, one cannot use ash for lilies that do not tolerate alkalization of the soil, and these are varieties such as "Oriental", "Asian", "American", "LA-hybrids".

Such a potassium-phosphorus fertilizing will allow the plants to mature by the onset of winter, recuperate after abundant flowering and prepare for the onset of cold weather. These fertilizers will allow the root system to receive a large amount of nutrients and better withstand cold weather, as well as in the spring will make it possible to grow faster in the aerial part of the flowers.

A layer of decayed foliage or compost should be added under those lilies that will not be dug out for the winter. (the thickness of such a layer should be at least 15-20 cm). This fertilizer will serve as a kind of "blanket" for the roots and their additional protection from the impending frost. And in the spring, humus will be a good fertilizer and mulch for lilies.

This shelter is suitable for long-flowered, oriental and American hybrids.

The main feeding is over, but the care of flowering perennials continues.

Disease treatment

This is followed by a couple of times sprinkle the lilies with copper sulfate or Bordeaux liquid... Such treatment will protect the plants from possible diseases during the rainy season.

Watering

Already from the end of summer, that is, from about mid-August, it is recommended to exclude watering of lilies altogether, because the bulbs can simply get wet due to the abundant moisture.


It is necessary to transplant a currant bush if:

  • it grew a lot and began to interfere with neighboring plants
  • the bush grows poorly because the soil is depleted
  • it is shaded by tall trees standing nearby
  • the plant is old and needs to be rejuvenated
  • you need to move the bush to a new place, because the soil on the site is swamped
  • currants are sick or affected by pests.

In any case, it is necessary to resort to transplanting as a last resort, since adult plants tolerate it worse than young ones.


Interesting varieties of phlox for planting in the garden

It is noteworthy that phlox planting and care in the open field is incredibly simple, even for novice florists, and you can choose for yourself those varieties of phlox that you like.

Breeders have bred a large number of varieties. Which are worthy to decorate a flower bed in every garden. It should be noted that annual phloxes are represented by one species - Drummond. Within which there are many varieties:

  • Star rain growing up to 50 cm with flowers shaped like stars
  • A twinkling star, a bush of which does not exceed 25 cm, blooms all summer
  • Constellation that has bright flowers, the size of which reaches 3 cm in diameter
  • Promise Pink will grow into a bush up to 20 cm in height.


Most of the varieties on the market are perennial phloxes, which need to be pruned in the fall and transplanted every few years. Among them, one can single out those that are especially popular with gardeners or have a remarkable color:

  1. Baikonur with soft pink flowers that do not fade in the sun
  2. Starfire striking with a dark red shade of inflorescences
  3. Margarita decorates the flowerbed with crimson flowers with dark eyes in the center
  4. Marshmallow with white flowers, decorated with pink dusting, fading in the sun
  5. Strawberry soufflé - the salmon shade of the petals is highlighted by a purple ring in the center of the flower
  6. Spread blue phlox, growing up to 30 cm
  7. Douglas phlox refers to a ground cover plant, it grows up to 20 cm in height, and its branches spread around a distance of up to 25 cm
  8. Fiona in the sun has light lilac shades, and in cloudy weather and in the evenings, the flowers turn blue.
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