Reproduction of epiphyllum
Epiphyllum is a houseplant that belongs to the cactus family. His homeland is tropical and subtropical America and Mexico. The plant does not have leaves of the usual appearance, instead of them, the epiphyllum has leaf-like stems of a dark green color with denticles or needles along the edges.
Epiphyllum wakes up earlier than other flowers, it begins to bloom at the very beginning of spring. This property and some other advantages of the epiphyllum as a houseplant made it one of the most popular and favorite plants among flower growers. However, not everyone knows exactly how to reproduce this flower. But everything turns out to be simpler than simple.
Planting and transplanting of the plant is carried out in early spring. But the cuttings must be prepared in advance, cut off in the fall and put in water, just in time for the spring they will be ready for planting in the ground.
Why is it better to cook cuttings in the fall? The thing is that it is recommended to cut off the epiphyllum regularly, namely, once a year, before the dormant period, that is, after the complete end of flowering, which happens in the fall. Pruning is done for cosmetic and firming purposes. This helps to form a beautiful lush bush of the plant, remove excess young shoots that prevent the epiphyllum from blooming, taking away its strength. At this time, there is a unique opportunity to get healthy viable cuttings for further propagation. You will still have to prune them, and in order not to throw them away, you can take care and get a new plant. Even if the next flower at home is clearly superfluous, you can give it to a neighbor, acquaintances or someone else, hardly anyone will refuse such a wonderful present.
And now more about the reproduction of the epiphyllum. Cut cuttings must first be dried in the shade for one to two days. When a thin crust appears at the cut site, place it in a container with water, trying to provide it with space. There should be enough water, excess moisture does not threaten it. After a while, roots will appear on the handle, but you can not transplant them immediately, but wait for the beginning of spring, the roots will get stronger by this time and it will be easier for them to adapt to the soil.
Now a few words about the planting of the epiphyllum. The pot for this flower is not very large, 10 cm in height will be enough. Since in a year it will be necessary to make a transplant, then such a capacity will be enough for this time. But even with the subsequent transplant, a very large pot for the epiphyllum is not needed, and the transplant is needed to a greater extent in order to change the soil.
For the first planting of a plant, that is, from water to soil, you can apply soil from a mixture of soil for cacti with peat in equal proportions. This will be the best option for root development. And already a year later, during the secondary planting, replace the soil with a clean mixture for cacti. By the way, the young epiphyllum will bloom not immediately, but only after two years. But the flower is very large and bright - from pink to red. In addition, the epiphyllum is able to delight others with its flowering for quite a long time.
How to care for a cactus
Cacti are beautiful and evergreen plants, the appearance of which makes almost any person wonder, rejoice in the variety of their forms, marvelous colors and the splendor of many specimens. How to care for a cactus.
Most of the cacti are endowed with a huge baggage of medicinal properties and qualities, and for the inhabitants of desert oases, these plants, or rather, their trunks, more than once served as reservoirs for water in the form of a syrup that quenches the thirst of travelers. Read more: How to care for geraniums.
ORCHID CACTUS NEED THE RIGHT WATER
In summer, they are moistened regularly and moderately from above with warm soft water after the surface of the soil has dried, without waiting for it to dry completely. Excess water is removed from the pallet. The substrate is always kept slightly moist. Overdrying the coma is detrimental to the roots, waterlogging or too heavy soil will cause them to rot. In winter, watering is reduced, but not brought to complete drying of the substrate.
As epiphytic plants, these cacti are able to partially absorb atmospheric moisture by stems and aerial roots. They respond well to spraying with warm water (not in direct sunlight) at temperatures above +18 degrees, at a lower temperature, they can be affected by fungal diseases.
Dracaena: breeding at home by the tip
For reproduction, a young biennial plant with one tip was taken. It is better not to carry out this procedure with younger dracaena. The plant must be sufficiently developed and have a good leafy crown.
Cut off the top with a sharp knife. Pre-calcify it over a fire or wipe it with alcohol so as not to introduce unnecessary bacteria into the wound. Since we plan not only to root the top, but also to get new tops on the mother plant, we need to leave the stump - the stem. 6-7 centimeters will be enough. As in the photo (who does not know - the long side of the matchbox is 5 cm). After cutting, immediately sprinkle the cut on the stump with ground charcoal or activated carbon. The usual garden variety is also well suited for this.
Let's tackle the top first. With this method of reproduction, dracaena are often placed at the top in a container with water, like cuttings of epiphyllum, monstera, Benjamin ficus and many more indoor plants. In this case, the process of the appearance of roots occurs more clearly and if something goes wrong, you can always intervene and correct the process. But I decided to skip this step, and immediately planted the top of the dracaena in a pot of earth. Usually the stalk of the cut top is short (as in the photo).
For planting, five centimeters of the cutting will be enough for us. Therefore, we remove the lower leaves.
A large planting pot is not needed. It will be enough 9-10 centimeters in diameter. The soil can be used the same as for an adult plant, adding a little perlite or vermiculite to it to lighten the mixture. You can take any other peat-based soil mixture. The main thing is that it should be light and pass water well.
Before planting, it is advisable to dip the end of the stem in heteroauxin or root powder. So the rooting process will go faster. After all this preparation, we bury the dracaena stalk into the ground by about two centimeters and slightly crush the ground around it. It should look like in the photo.
For the successful rooting of the dracaena top, good diffused lighting and a temperature of at least + 22-25 degrees are necessary. In the process of rooting, regular watering and spraying are required.
There is a high probability that the lower leaves will begin to turn yellow and fall off. It's okay, that's okay. After the roots appear, everything is normalized.
Now it remains to deal with the maternal cut plant. Especially you don't have to do anything. It is enough to cover the foam with an ordinary glass jar and put it in a warm place. Leave it covered until buds wake up and new shoots develop. Remove the jar periodically to ventilate the plant and remove condensation from its walls. Don't forget to water regularly, too.
As I wrote above, the reproduction of this dracaena took place four years ago. The apex successfully rooted, but since my goal was to get a mother dracaena with two tops, a new plant was donated. By the way, the new owners have already cut it off. Now their dracaena has 3 (!) Tops. And the former penechek now looks like this ...
Epiphyllum blooming in autumn
Epiphyllum angular (Epiphyllum anguliger) - forest epiphytic cactus, native to the rainforests of Mexico. For the unusual shape of the stems, the people call it "fish bones". Unlike most epiphyllums, which usually bloom in spring, E. angular blooms in autumn, in September-October, which is especially pleasant, since most of the plants are dormant at this time of the year.
For abundant flowering, the epiphyllum needs the sun, ideally it is better to place it on the east or west window. On the south, you will need shading in the summer months.
Like all cacti of humid forests, E. angular should be watered more often than species originating from arid regions - the soil in a pot should always be moderately moist. Watered as the upper layer of the substrate dries up with settled water at room temperature. During the period of relative rest, in winter, the amount and frequency of watering are reduced. With very cold wintering, they do not water at all. With the beginning of spring, they gradually switch to the usual moisture regime.
In spring and summer, the plant is fed with fertilizer for cacti about once every 10 days.
Epiphyllum prefers a nutrient substrate. Purchased cactus soil with the addition of perlite and other baking powder is quite suitable for him.
Young plants are transplanted annually at the end of winter or early spring, adult large specimens - once every 2-3 years.
In the spring-summer period, the forest cactus prefers a temperature of about +25 degrees. During the period of relative rest, from November to February, the temperature, if possible, is reduced to + 10-15 degrees.
The humidity of the air for the plant does not really matter, but during the hot summer months it can be sprayed with warm soft water.
Epiphyllum is propagated by cuttings. To do this, you can use not only the entire stem, but even a small part of it. Cuttings easily root in perlite (vermiculite, sand), they can be rooted directly in the ground. It is better and safer to do this in spring or summer.
Epiphyllum grows angular quickly, "seedlings" bloom at about the age of 3 years.
© Author: N. SEMENOVA .. biologist, collector of indoor plants
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Epiphyllum from the cactus family blooms regularly. Its flowers are unusually beautiful. I keep the plant on the east or west windowsill, where the lighting is bright, but diffused. In the summer I take out the epiphyllum to the garden (comfortable temperature - + 20 ... + 25 degrees). I water it regularly, feed it 2 times a month with a special fertilizer for cacti. From November to February, the temperature is reduced to + 12 ... + 15 degrees. (I put it closer to the window). Watering - 2-3 times a month.
Flower buds are only laid on stems of the second year. Therefore, in early November, early March, I cut the stems - usually by half (I sprinkle the cuts with crushed coal).
If roots appear from the drainage holes, I transplant the cactus in the spring. For the substrate, I mix sod and leafy soil, adding charcoal and peat (4: 4: 1: 1).
Components containing lime must not be added.
I really love indoor plants, but it so happened that my apartment is small, only two windows, and the window sills are very narrow.
And those few plants that I can afford have to be placed tightly to each other, the leaves and stems are tied up, heavily pruned and other procedures done so that they do not spread the crown on the shelves and do not shade each other.
Many years ago, when my aunt died, I took her hybrid epiphyllum with me. The plant was very powerful, my aunt's windows overlook the sunny side, and the cactus felt great on the wide windowsill of the five-story building. It bloomed beautifully with huge red flowers.
I transplanted it into a large pot, put it on the windowsill in the room. It bloomed a little, but then began to fade. I still hoped to revive him: I fed him bird droppings, wiped the leaves with a damp cloth. All to no avail.
Once, while cleaning the windowsill, I pulled the pot with epiphyllum to remove it from there. But the pot did not give in in any way and pulled the neighboring one, where the purple wallota kids grew up.
It turned out that the crown of one epiphyllum leaf fell into a neighboring pot and ended up on the ground. The leaf took root and began to grow. So it grew up "upside down", down the top of the head. From the rooted leaf, new leaves began to grow. I cut off the sprouted leaf and only then was I able to remove the pot with the mother plant.
Soon a new hybrid epiphyllum plant was formed in a pot with a vallot.
WHY DOES THE EPIPHILLUM NOT COLOR?
In order for the epiphyllum to bloom, several conditions must be met:
- a bright place, but not in direct sun, in the shade the epiphyllum will also not lay buds
- cramped pot
- a dormant period in winter in coolness (10-12 °) with occasional and greedy watering.
If the specimen is old, you keep it according to the rules, but he still stubbornly refuses to bloom, then maybe the pot has become too cramped for him and the soil is depleted or was picked up incorrectly (too heavy and dense) and it's time to change it. But the size of the pot when re-
This specimen does not yet have a single shoot capable of blooming. Only flat leafy blooms
the cage should not be increased too much. A month after the transplant, you can start feeding, preferably with a specialized fertilizer for cacti.
In addition, old shoots lose their ability to bloom, they must be cut off. And yet - flowers are formed only on flat shoots, if triangular begin to prevail, this indicates a lack of illumination. They must be cut off, and the plant must be rearranged to a lighter place. Yes, they often write that epiphyllums cannot be moved and turned. But this applies only to those specimens that have already picked up buds, which can fall off with a sharp change in conditions.
Perhaps, cacti are one of the most collectible plants in the world.
Places take up a little and the variety is colossal! Basically, species are collected that do not reach large sizes in nature and bloom at home. Most amateurs are guided by their external features, while almost everyone loves "whites". This is the name for cacti with white dense spines or pubescence.
The prominent representatives of this category of cacti are white Notocactus (Notocactus). There are few of them, but they always stand out against the general background. The name of the genus itself can be translated as "marked, noticeable", and the most noticeable among the "noticeable" can be considered the plants of the Notocactus scopa group of forms.
These are cacti with a cylindrical stem, densely covered with thin sticking out white spines, and among them there are usually several contrasting red or dark red spines. This notocac-tus is variable (changeable) in appearance. The whitest, without red central spines - N. Scopa v. succineus fa. albispinus (pictured). Like most Notocactus, N. scopa has yellow flowers with a pearlescent sheen and a bright light cherry pistil. Another white notocactus, N. bueneckeri, has a flower with a yellow pistil, spines are longer, and the stem is squat. While N. scopa is a well-known and widespread cactus, N. bueneckeri is rather rare in collections.
There are two points to pay attention to. The thorns of these cacti are quite fragile, "they do not hold a blow", if handled carelessly, they can be damaged, and also stain when various organic substances get on them. Another point is that dried flowers must be removed in a timely manner and carefully, since they greatly spoil the appearance of the plant. Otherwise, white notocactus do not require any special care, they feel good in general mode.
Helping the plant
After detecting rotting, the owner of the plant needs to understand the cause of the processes. Based on this, a decision is made on the method of treating the succulent. With slight damage, it is enough to process and transplant the plant into a new container and soil.
With strong rotting of the roots of a cactus, the only way to help it is by rooting the top.The damaged area is cut off, the cut is cleaned with a knife and processed with activated carbon powder. The stem is sharpened like a pencil. So, it is easier to plant it in the ground. Experienced growers recommend covering the spiked stem with a thick cloth so as not to hurt yourself while processing the plant.
After the procedure, the cactus is dried and fixed on a support, for example, on a glass. Within 10-30 days, it should grow new roots. After that, the plant is transplanted into the prepared soil. During the procedure, you should be careful not to damage the delicate sprouts. Then watering is carried out through the pan, the remaining water is drained after ten minutes. The second time the succulent is watered 20-25 days after the first. This will prevent the root system from rotting again.
Treatment of cacti without external signs of decay
Watering the succulent completely stops, as well as spraying. The affected areas of the cactus are excised and dried for several days. After that, the plant is removed from the ground and the roots are examined. If nothing remains of the root system, then the crown is immediately rooted. Healthy roots are gray-green in color. They do not crumble from touch, do not bend or break. When a fungus is affected, spots of a raspberry and brown hue appear on the root processes.
The next step is to trim all damaged areas with a disinfected scalpel. Cut off the affected processes until the slices are white, clean and free of blotches, spots. If the decay process has gone above the root collar, and there are still spots, then the pruning is continued in even thin layers. The final cut is made with a clean tool and the bottom is sharpened like a pencil. Otherwise, it will be difficult for the succulent to root. The rest of the operations are performed as when rooting the crown.
Treatment of a plant with signs of decay
When there are already visible signs of rotting on a thick stem, it means that the roots of the plant are already affected and the infection has gone higher. If you do not take timely measures, then the succulent will die. Outwardly, it looks like a change from green to brown, brown. The spines of the cactus practically stick together. The plant becomes soft, and the thorns can fall off when touched.
In a cactus, remove all affected areas until the cut is clean. The tool is pre-treated with alcohol. After processing, there should be no spots or dots on the succulent. All sections are sprinkled with activated carbon powder. After that, you need to pull the succulent out of the ground and continue processing the lower part of the plant. After the procedure, the cactus is dried in a room with low humidity.
The room should not be cold. In a couple of days, the "wounds" are scarred and the plant is ready to be transplanted into a new pot with prepared soil. In advanced cases, the cactus may die even after high-quality processing. Much depends on the area of the succulent lesion and the cause of the disease. As a safety net, you can immediately separate the young shoot from the uterine cactus for planting.
After processing, all sections are processed with activated carbon powder. It has a disinfecting effect and destroys bacteria. This will help dry the "wound" surface so that the succulent does not drain out of juice and prevent the development of the fungus. After that, the plant is placed in a glass so that it does not touch the cut with the bottom and walls of the container.
The plant is left to take root indoors. You can simply flip the small succulent plant upside down so that it stands on the thorns. This is necessary so that the treated area is constantly ventilated and scarred. Over time, a cork-like fabric will appear in this place. Biologists call it callus. The time of its formation depends on the area of the cut and the size of the plant.
Florists believe that the less is left of the succulent after pruning, the faster it needs to be transplanted and rooted. It is believed that larger plants are viable for a long time and can live for some time without food. It doesn't hurt them much. The owner of the plant should carefully monitor the condition of the cutting (shoot) so as not to overexpose it. In this case, the cactus may not take root.
And if you hurry up, it will rot again. After drying, the cutting is placed on a watered loose substrate. The process should not be deepened and dug in. Repeated immersion in the ground will provoke repeated rotting. To keep the cactus level, it can be overlaid with medium-sized stones. The container with the transplanted succulent should be removed to a warm room away from strong sunlight. At first, the cactus is sprayed. After rooting and the beginning of growth, grooming becomes standard.