The genus Huernia consists of stem succulents from Eastern and Southern Africa, first described as a genus in 1810. The name is in honor of Justin Heurnius (1587–1652) a Dutch missionary who is reputed to have been the first collector of South African Cape plants.

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Owl Eyes (Huernia zebrina) Plant Profile

Huernia zebrina, commonly referred to as owl eye succulents, are a species of succulents native to South Africa that are known for their distinctive other-worldly blooms. They are characterized by 4-sided stems with soft teeth along the edges, and yellow and red 5-pointed, star-shaped flowers. Owl eye succulents are not large succulents, growing to only six to eight inches tall. They grow well indoors as houseplants since they generally require warm temperatures in order to thrive. Plus, if you frequently forget to water your houseplants - this is the succulent for you! They thrive on minimal moisture and can survive for several weeks at a time without water if needed.

Botanical Name Huernia zebrina
Common Name Owl eyes succulent, little owl eyes, lifesaver cactus, lifesaver plant, carrion flower, zebra-striped Huernia
Plant Type Succulent
Mature Size 6" spread, 6-8" in height
Sun Exposure Bright light - partial shade
Soil Type Well-draining
Soil pH 6
Bloom Time Summer
Flower Color Yellow, red, purple, white
Native Area South Africa

Ideal Location For Your Huernia Schneideriana

Red dragon flowers are incredibly hardy. They can survive in the toughest conditions, so you don’t need to be too careful about where you put them.

In the wild, they are found growing underneath other plants. They like to tuck themselves away as too much direct sunlight can cause their stem to turn purple for protection and could even burn them!

However, you definitely don’t want to leave them in a cupboard as they do require some light. If you do, you’ll find their blooms to be weak and feeble. In serious cases, their flower production will dwindle to almost nothing!

For the prettiest outcome, your precious succulent friend should be able to reach some sunlight throughout the day — even in the winter months. Although, you should be prepared to protect them when it gets super cold (depending on where you live).



It is important to get the light right for this plant. These low-growing perennial succulent plants are native to low-altitude areas of eastern and southern Africa, and grow underneath other shrubs. They are actually in the milkweed family of plants.

Keeping this information in mind, you need to strike a balance with the light that you give your indoor Huernia. You need enough light to produce strong growth and flowering, but not too much light that can cause scalding.

Inside the home, the ideal location would be right in front of an Eastern facing window (morning sun) or a Western facing window (afternoon sun).

My own plant has been growing well and flowering in front of my Eastern window. Of course every window is different and you’ll have to experiment.

Some indications of not enough light include weak growth and no flowering. On the other end, too much sun can start to produce reddish or purple coloring in your plant. If you see this, you may want to decrease the amount of direct sun just a bit.

A few hours of direct sun inside are necessary for good growth and flowering, but avoid harsh sun during mid-day.


To be safe don’t let your lifesaver cactus plant go below 50F (10C). If you move your plant outside during the warmer months, be sure to return it indoors before temperatures dip below this.

50-80F (10-27C) is a great growing range for this plant. Huernias can take down to 40F (4.5C) as long as they are kept dry and up to 100F (38C) as long as they’re not in full sun. These extremes are not ideal for long periods of time though so try and avoid them.


All Huernias require very sharp drainage. There is no magic blend, as long as you have excellent drainage. The mix below is what I’ve been using and my plant is loving it!

I used 2 parts succulent/cactus soil with 1 part 1/4″ pumice. Mix it up together, and it is a fantastic and very quickly draining medium for your lifesaver plant or ANY succulent!

As far as pots go I prefer terra cotta pots for many reasons. They are heavier and make it less likely to knock over since the plants can be top heavy, and they will dry out more quickly than plastic pots.

Also, avoid pots that are unusually deep. Huernia roots experience root dieback during their cool season dormant period. If the pot is too deep, it will cause issues because the soil will take too long to dry out.

If you can find shallow pots, these would be ideal, but mine has been doing just fine in a standard, small terra cotta pot.

A spent Huernia flower


I follow my standard watering for succulents. Water thoroughly, allow excess water to exit the drainage hole and wait until at least the top inch or two of soil is dry before watering again during the growing season.

You can (and I usually do) let the soil go completely dry during the growing season and this is fine as long as you don’t let it stay completely dry for too long. Again, this is during the active growing season.

During active growth, as soon as the soil is completely dry, give it a good soaking, let it dry out again, and repeat.

During the winter time, you can keep the soil drier for longer periods of time.


As with succulents in general, avoid high nitrogen fertilizers and use ones that are low-nitrogen but high-phosphorus like Schultz Cactus Plus. Avoid fertilizing during the winter time.

If you prefer non-synthetic fertilizers, you can choose to mix in some blood meal or bone meal into the soil in the Spring.


The most common pest that you may encounter are mealybugs. As with any pests, early detection is key to controlling them. The easiest and best method to treat mealy bugs on your lifesaver cactus is to manually remove the mealybugs that are visible, and then treat with a systemic houseplant insecticide.

This is a softer succulent, so be especially careful of conditions that can produce stem rot, including long periods of cool temperatures, especially if combined with wet soil.

If you notice any soft, dark spots on the stems, cut these areas off your plant.


When my Huernia first bloomed, I was surprised because I was expecting bigger flowers. The flower are only about an inch in diameter or a little less.

When the buds first appear, they’ll look like the one in the photo below.

I’ve read some sources that say that the flowers sometimes produce a very foul scent similar to rotting flesh! Fortunately, I’ve never noticed this odor in my plant.

They are related to the Stapelia genus of plants, or Carrion Flower, and these DO have horrendously smelling flowers.


I propagated my own plant from a small one inch cutting that a friend sent me in the mail. It was the easiest thing I’ve ever propagated.

The original cutting was the vertical stem shown in the photo below.

All you have to do is cut off a portion of the stem, allow the end to dry and callous over for 3 or 4 days or so, and then simply insert it into a small pot of soil. It’s as simple as that.

(You want to dry or callous the end in order to help prevent rotting.)

Water the pot, and wait until the surface dries out and keep repeating. Before you know it, you will see growth. My own plant took about 2 years before it bloomed, and this was all from a small 1 inch cutting.

Do you have a Huernia zebrina or lifesaver plant? Comment below. I’d love to hear!

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Additional Info on Caring for Huernia Cactus

You will rarely need to repot your Lifesaver plant. They prefer a slightly crowded environment and this will also keep a tight, compact plant. Change the soil every two years, but you can usually keep the same pot.

Cactus plants, in general, benefit from supplemental feeding during their growing season. Gradually increase the amount of water you give the plant in April or May. At this time, feed the plant with a 15-15-15 liquid plant food once per month diluted by half. Stop fertilizing in late August to prevent new growth from forming while the plant goes into dormancy.

Huernia zebrina doesn’t really need pruning unless you want a smaller plant. You can save the cuttings, let them callus for a few days and then pot them up to create new plants.

This is a really easy and fun little plant to grow and enjoy, season after season.