Melons: growing from seed by seedlings, planting and care in the open field, photo

Melons: growing from seed by seedlings, planting and care in the open field, photo

Garden plants

Plant melon (lat.Cucumis melo) - melon culture, which belongs to the species of the genus Cucumber of the Pumpkin family. Now it is difficult to find a wild-growing melon, the cultivated forms of which were derived from the weed-field Asian species. The first mention of this culture is found in the Bible: the melon was grown in ancient Egypt. The fruit is a melon from Central and Asia Minor, its cultivation for several centuries BC. e. began in Northern India and the adjacent regions of Central Asia and Iran, after which the melon spread both west and east, as far as China.
In Europe, this melon culture appeared in the Middle Ages, and on the territory of present-day Russia, in the Lower Volga region, it was introduced in the 15th-16th centuries.

Planting and caring for a melon

  • Landing: sowing seeds for seedlings - in mid-April, planting seedlings in the ground - in early June.
  • Lighting: bright sunlight.
  • The soil: rich in organic matter, light, dry, neutral reaction, preferably after black steam. Cultivation on medium loamy soil is possible. Heavy loams, sandy, acidic and moist soils are not suitable.
  • Watering: regular, preferably drip, on average - once a week, in the morning. With the appearance of fruits, watering is reduced until it stops completely.
  • Top dressing: 2 weeks after planting the seedlings, a solution of 20 g of ammonium nitrate in 10 liters of water is introduced into the ground at the rate of 2 liters per bush. The same top dressing is applied during the period of bud formation, and 2-3 weeks after that, the soil is fertilized with a mineral complex.
  • Pinching, garter, pinching: as soon as the seedlings take root, the main stem is pinched, but this does not apply to hybrid melon varieties. On each bush, 2 to 6 ovaries should remain, and when they increase to the size of a tennis ball, they are placed in a string bag and tied to a trellis.
  • Reproduction: seed.
  • Pests: melon aphids, wireworms, spider mites, gnawing scoops and melon flies.
  • Diseases: powdery mildew, peronosporosis, fusarium wilting, anthracnose (copperhead), root rot.

Read more about melon cultivation below.

Melon fruit - description

The melon berry is an annual plant with a creeping stem, 1.5 to 3 m in length, with large, whole, heart-shaped palm-lobed leaves, consisting of five lobes. Melon flowers are light yellow, unisexual. Each plant can produce from 2 to 8 fragrant fruit-berries. Green, light brown, yellow or white, often with green stripes, the melon can have a cylindrical, flattened or rounded shape. The flesh of the melon is white, greenish, orange or yellow. The growing season of a plant lasts from 2.5 months to six months.

Growing melon from seeds

Sowing melon seeds

In the middle lane, the melon is grown in seedlings. Growing melon seedlings begins with preparation for sowing seeds three to four years ago, because fresh seeds will grow strong plants that will not bear fruit, since they will only have male flowers that do not form ovaries. Large melon seeds are dipped for 20 minutes in a two percent solution of potassium permanganate (a teaspoon of potassium permanganate without top is dissolved in one and a half glasses of water). You can also hold the seeds for 12 hours in a 5% solution of boric acid and zinc sulfate, then rinse and dry.

Some gardeners use the method of cold hardening the seeds: first they are placed in a thermos with water of thirty degrees Celsius for two hours, then, covered with wet gauze, they are kept at a temperature of 15-20 ºC for a day, after which they are moved for 18 hours in a refrigerator with a temperature from 0 to 2 ºC, and then again for six hours kept at a temperature of 15-20 ºC. A hardening procedure is carried out immediately before planting the seeds in the ground.

Melon seedlings are planted in mid-April. 2-3 seeds are planted in peat pots with a diameter of 10 cm to a depth of 1.5-2 cm. The soil mixture for growing melon seedlings should consist of nine parts of peat and one part of sand. 10 liters of soil mixture must be thoroughly mixed with a glass of wood ash.

Growing melon seedlings

How to grow melon seedlings? Until emergence, seed pots should be kept at 20-25 ºC during the day, and the night temperature should be no higher than 18 ºC. As soon as shoots appear, and this will happen in about a week, the strongest sprout is left in the pot, and the rest are not pulled out, but cut off at surface level so as not to injure the root system of the remaining seedling. After the emergence of three pairs of true leaves at the seedlings, the seedlings are pinched, stimulating the development of lateral shoots.

They contain emerging seedlings on the southern windowsill, but if you do not have this opportunity, you will have to organize daily artificial supplementary lighting of seedlings with fluorescent lamps for 10-12 hours. Care for melon seedlings consists in timely moistening the soil with warm water, and the first watering after sowing the seeds is carried out when one true leaf develops at the seedlings, however, it is very important that water does not fall on the leaves and stems of the seedlings. If you are worried that the seedlings may become sick with black leg, sprinkle the surface of the soil with dry sand.

During the cultivation of melon seedlings, it is advisable to carry out two fertilizing with a solution of complex mineral fertilizers, and a week before transplanting seedlings into the ground, hardening procedures begin: during the day, the temperature is lowered to 15-17 ºC, and at night - to 12-15 ºC, gradually making more and more long airing sessions.

Melon pick

Readers sometimes ask the question: "How to dive a melon"? Melons, like other pumpkin seeds, do not dive, because their seedlings do not tolerate transplanting very well. That is why pumpkin seeds are sown in separate cups.

Planting melons outdoors

When to plant a melon in the ground

When to plant melon seedlings outdoors? Planting the melon in the ground is carried out when the seedlings are 4-5 weeks old, and the seedlings will develop 5-6 true leaves. However, one should not rush to plant seedlings, it is necessary to wait until warm weather sets in. If, after planting the seedlings, frost occurs in the ground, you can cover the seedlings with a film for this time.

Choose a well-warmed, sunny area, sheltered from the cold wind, and preferably on the south side for thermophilic melons. Melon grows best after black fallow and plants such as winter wheat, corn, barley, cucumbers, onions, garlic, legumes and cabbage, but melon cannot be grown in one place for two years in a row. Melon grows poorly after plants such as carrots and tomatoes. Good neighbors for melons are turnips, beans, basil, chard, radish, sorrel, radish, and corn. Bad neighbors are potatoes and cucumbers.

Melon soil

Melon loves neutral and light soils, but rich in organic matter. She is not confused by dry and saline soils, but acidic and moist soil is destructive for her. The melon is most suitable for light medium loamy soils, but it does not like sandy soils and heavy loams.

Before planting a melon in the ground, you need to prepare it: in the fall, under the digging to the depth of the shovel bayonet, add 4-5 kg ​​of humus or manure, and add another half a bucket of sand per m² to the clay soil. In the spring, the area under the melon is harrowed and brought into the soil 15-25 g of potassium salt and 35-45 g of superphosphate per m². Before planting, the site is dug up again, but with nitrogen fertilizers at the rate of 15-25 g per m².

How to plant a melon outdoors

Before transferring the seedlings into holes located at a distance of 60 cm from each other, it is watered abundantly to make it easier to remove the seedling from the pot. The interval between the rows is about 70 cm. The seedlings are placed in the hole so that their root collar is above the surface level, otherwise there is a risk of rotting or being affected by fungal diseases. With this planting, the bush appears to be on a tubercle. In order to protect melon melon from fungal diseases, after planting, the bed is sprinkled with river sand. The seedlings are protected from the sun with wet paper, which is removed after two days.

Growing melon in a greenhouse

In greenhouses, melons are grown on trellises to take up less space. Melons are planted in a greenhouse in holes 70x50 cm at a distance of 20 cm between specimens at the same time as in open ground. Seedlings are grown and hardened as already described. Peppers and tomatoes can be grown along with melon, but cucumbers and zucchini are not the best greenhouse neighbors for this crop. Before planting the seedlings, 1.5 kg of humus or compost is added to each hole, sprinkling it on top with a layer of soil 3 cm thick, then spilling the hole with warm water and transferring the seedlings with an earthen lump into them so that they turn out to be 1.5- 3 cm above the bed, otherwise rotting of the hypocotal knee may begin. If frost occurs, the planting is protected by additional frames with a film.

The first week after planting the seedlings in the garden, if the temperature in the greenhouse rises above 30 ºC, airing is carried out. After a week or ten days, each melon is watered with two liters of warm water with nitrogen fertilizers dissolved in it (20 g of ammonium nitrate per 10 liters of water). The beds are moistened every week, but during the period of fruit ripening, the rate is adjusted downward until the complete cessation of watering for 1-2 weeks, until the melons are finally ripe - this is done so that the fruits are sweeter. Melon fertilization with organic matter is carried out twice with an interval of 2-3 weeks, alternating feeding with herbal infusion and adding infusion of chicken droppings, mullein or humus and adding a handful of wood ash to the holes.

A week after planting the seedlings in the greenhouse, the seedlings are pinched over 5-6 leaves and after the formation of lateral lashes with female flowers, the two strongest of them are tied to a trellis, and the rest are cut off. As the lashes grow, wrap them around the twine on the trellis, since the melon lashes will not climb up on it by themselves. If there are few pollinating insects in the greenhouse, you will have to help the melons to pollinate. To do this, you need to carefully transfer the pollen from the male flowers with a brush (these are those flowers that do not have ovaries) to the female pistil.

When the fruits appear, only 2-3 melons are left on each plant, and when they develop to the size of a tennis ball, each of them is laid in a net and suspended on the horizontal guide of the trellis.

Sometimes plants can suffer from fungal diseases or harmful insects, for example, melon aphids, scoops or spider mites. Insects can be dealt with by treating plants with Iskra-bio or Fitoverm. What is a melon sick with and how to treat a melon from diseases, if such a need arises, read in the appropriate section.

The melon is harvested when the fruits acquire the characteristic size and color of the variety, and cracks appear at the junction of the fruit with the lash.

Melon care

How to grow a melon

Cultivation of melons in the open field involves watering, weeding, loosening, hilling, pinching and tying lashes, as well as feeding the plants. It may be necessary to carry out artificial pollination, which is carried out in the same way as pollination of melons in a greenhouse. As soon as the melon seedlings take root and grow, its main stem is pinched again.

This is done so that the plant does not waste energy on building up green mass, but spends them on the formation and growth of fruits. As a result, each melon should develop the main and two lateral shoots, the remaining shoots are removed.

This does not apply to hybrid varieties, on the main shoot of which there are female flowers, therefore they are not pinched, and the lateral shoots of hybrids, in order to avoid thickening of the planting, pinch after 2-3 leaves. Otherwise, care for hybrids is the same as for conventional melon varieties.

When the ovaries appear, they are left on each bush from two to six, no more, and when the fruits reach the size of a tennis ball, each of them is placed in a net and tied to a trellis, partially removing the load from the lashes of the plant. From time to time, the growing fruits in the nets are turned over in order to achieve their uniform ripening. A rotting material (foil, pieces of roofing material) is placed under the melons lying on the ground. If only one fruit grows on the bush, and the rest turn yellow and lag behind in development, then it's time to fertilize the melon.

The row spacings on the melon beds are loosened the first two times to a depth of 10-15 cm, the subsequent loosening is carried out not so deeply - by 8-10 cm, and the space around the seedlings requires even less deep and very careful loosening of the soil. When the side lashes begin to develop, the melon is spud. Stop loosening the soil around the bushes when the foliage closes.

If you prefer to grow melons on a trellis, but I must say that this method saves a lot of space, install supports up to 2 m high in advance, because a few days after planting the seedlings in the ground, the shoot needs to be tied with a rope, and its upper end fixed on the trellis ... Over time, side shoots are also tied up.

Watering melon

Water the melon regularly - on average, once a week - with warm water (22-25 ºC), in the morning, not allowing drops to fall on the leaves, stems, buds, flowers and fruits. To avoid this, you can dig a furrow around the plants and pour water into it. But the best way to irrigate melons and gourds is drip. Avoid waterlogging the soil, as this will rot the roots of the plant, so before watering the melon, make sure that the top layer of the soil on the melon is dry. When the fruits appear, watering is gradually reduced until it stops completely, so that the melons collect more sugar.

Melon feeding

It is convenient to combine top dressing with watering. How to fertilize melons outdoors? Two weeks after planting seedlings in the ground, it can be fed with a solution of 20 g of ammonium nitrate in a bucket of water at the rate of 2 liters of solution per bush. When the budding process begins, a second feeding of melons is carried out with a solution of ammonium nitrate in the same proportion or with a mullein (1:10). Then, after 2-3 weeks, a mixture of fertilizers is introduced into the soil in liquid form: 30 g of ammonium sulfate, 50 g of superphosphate and 20-25 g of potassium salt, dissolved in 10 liters of water.

Melon pests and diseases

All varieties of melons for open ground, as well as melons grown under film coverings, in case of improper care or non-observance of agricultural practices, crops can be infected with fungal, viral or bacterial diseases. Melons also suffer from some harmful insects. To prevent crop loss, you must be able to recognize in time a disease or pest that has encroached on your melon, and also know what drug and how to process melons in this case.

Powdery mildew - a fungal disease, from which whitish spots appear on the stems and leaves of the plant, eventually covering the entire surface and acquiring a brown color. Under this bloom, the leaves become brittle, dry out and curl up. Shoot growth slows down, fruits lag behind in development, lose quality and sugar content. If signs of disease are found, treat melon beds with 80% sulfur powder at the rate of 4 g per 1 m². Several sessions with an interval of 20 days can be carried out, but the last of them is not later than 20 days before harvest.

Peronosporosis, or downy mildew, characterized by the appearance of yellow-green spots on the melon leaves, which rapidly increase, covering the entire leaf plate. During a period of high humidity, a gray-purple bloom with fungal spores forms on the underside of the leaves. As a preventive measure, soak the melon seeds before planting for two hours in a thermos of 45 ºC water and then in a 1% potassium permanganate solution for 20 minutes. If symptoms of peronosporosis are found, treat the area with a solution of 1 g of urea in 1 liter of water, and if this measure does not help, you will have to spray the melons with a solution of Topaz or Oxychom in accordance with the instructions.

Fusarium wilting also a fungal disease, the pathogens of which live in the ground, from where they get on plant debris and melon seeds. Most often, mid-ripening and late varieties are affected by Fusarium, because of it, the yield and quality of the fruits are reduced. The disease manifests itself at the stage of development of 2-3 true leaves or during the ripening of fruits. In diseased plants, the leaves brighten and become covered with gray spots, then the affected ground parts wither, and the plant dies within 10 days. As a treatment, melon beds are treated during the budding period with a solution of potassium chloride, and as a preventive measure, a five-minute disinfection of seeds is used before sowing in a forty percent formalin solution.

Anthracnose, or copperhead, manifests itself as rounded brown or pinkish spots on the leaves, increasing in size as the disease progresses. Holes form in the affected leaves, the leaves curl and the melon dries up, the lashes thin and break, and the fruits become deformed and rot. Treatment for anthracnose - three to four times spraying plants with one percent Bordeaux liquid with an interval of 10 days or pollination of the area with sulfur powder.

Ascochitosis, like the previously described diseases, it is excited by a fungus and is manifested by the appearance of brown patches on the stems of melons growing in a greenhouse, which gradually spread throughout the plant. A diseased melon perishes from damage to the root part. If symptoms of ascochitis are found, reduce watering and dust the affected areas of the plants with a mixture of lime and ash, or spray them with one percent Bordeaux liquid, and as a preventive measure, we recommend disinfecting the seeds with Immunocytofit or Silk before sowing.

Root rot affects weakened specimens, while in young plants the stems and roots first turn brown, then thinner and, as a result, the plant withers. An adult melon turns yellow and also withers, while the lower stems and roots become brown. A preventive measure in the fight against rot can be considered the treatment of seeds before planting for five minutes with a forty percent formalin solution.

Viral diseases - the cucumber mosaic virus, the narrow specialization virus and the watermelon mosaic virus are carried by aphids, so the carriers are destroyed first of all, and only then the fight against melon diseases is carried out. However, if a plant is infected with one of the listed viruses, it is impossible to save it, because no cure has yet been invented for these diseases. You can only quickly remove the plant from the garden until the infection spreads to neighboring melons. Symptoms of these diseases: the appearance of areas with a mosaic color on the leaves, shortening of internodes, developmental delay, deformation of leaves, dropping of ovaries, the appearance of specks on fruits.

Among insects, melons have such enemies: melon aphids, spider mites, wireworms and gnawing scoops.

Melon aphid accumulates on the underside of the leaves and feeds on their juice, which is why the leaves curl up and dry, and the flowers fall off before they open up. In addition, aphids are a carrier of viral diseases from which plants cannot be cured. To kill aphids, spray the melons with 10% Karbofos solution or 30% Actellic solution.

Spider mites also prefer to settle on the underside of the sheet plate. They, like aphids, feed on plant sap. Most often, mites infect melons growing in greenhouses, but they also harm melons. You can get rid of the tick by treatment with Fitoverm, Bicol or Bitoxibacillin.

Wireworms - the larvae of click beetles - gnaw the underground part of the plants, which leads to the death of melons. The reproduction of caterpillars can be prevented by deep digging of the site in autumn and observing crop rotation.

Gnawing scoops they are not dangerous in themselves, the caterpillars, gnawing the stalk of the melon, cause harm to the plants, which causes the plant to die. To get rid of the caterpillars of the scoop, the site is deeply dug after harvesting. In addition, crop rotation must be observed.

Melon processing

To achieve the desired effect in the treatment of fungal diseases, fungicides are used in a block of 2-4 treatments, without using preparations of contact properties in between. Do not alternate fungicides from different chemical groups, use the same fungicide or equivalent. The intervals between treatments with fungicides should not be more than 12 days. After the last treatment of plants with a systemic fungicide, the contact agent can be applied no earlier than after 8-10 days.

It is advisable to use systemic fungicides for the treatment of young, actively developing plants, and it is better to treat adult, aging plants with contact preparations.

Collection and storage of melons

Before picking melons, you need to be sure that they are really ripe. Notice the color of the melon and the network of cracks on its surface. Ripe melons are easily separated from the lashes, the net covers the peel throughout the fruit, and the fruit turns yellow, but such melons will not be stored for a long time - at most two months.

Melon, which is ripe enough to be stored, has a moderately pronounced mesh that covers only half of the fruit. And those specimens in which the net covers the entire surface of the yellowed melon should be eaten immediately. In varieties that do not form a mesh on the skin, only yellowing of the melon is a sign of ripening.

The keeping quality of melons is determined according to the following scale:

  • low - such melons are stored for less than two weeks;
  • small melons - shelf life from 15 to 30 days;
  • medium-sized melons are stored from a month to two;
  • decaying melons are stored for up to 3 months;
  • very sweet - melons stored for more than 3 months.

The best keeping quality is possessed by mid-ripening and late varieties of melons, which, when properly stored, can lie for up to six months, while early, mid-early and some mid-season varieties are not stored for a long time, therefore it is advisable to eat them immediately.

Late-ripening melons, intended for long-term storage, are harvested in a state of technical ripeness selectively, as the necessary signs appear on the fruits, without cutting, but plucking them together with a stalk up to 3 cm long.This is done in the early morning, before the heat comes, or in the evening, when the heat had already subsided. The plucked melons are left for 3-4 days on the melon bed, gently turning them over every 5-6 hours, after which they are placed in a dry, cool, but not cold, pre-disinfected storage facility.

Disinfection is carried out by spraying the premises with bleach. You can use smoke bombs to destroy viruses and pests. After processing, the storage should be locked for several days, then it should be ventilated and the wooden structures of the room should be whitewashed with fresh lime.

Place the melons on racks for storage, spreading the fruits on shelves sprinkled with sawdust or chaff in one layer. And you can store the melons in a suspended state by immersing each fruit in a coarse mesh and hanging it on a rack with crossbars. The humidity in the melon storage room should be about 80% and the temperature within 2-3 ºC.

Melon's proximity to potatoes and apples has a detrimental effect on the melon: from potatoes, the melon acquires an unpleasant aftertaste and begins to rot, and the ethylene released by apples accelerates the process of melon ripening and overripe. Inspect stored fruits as often as possible and immediately remove those showing signs of spoilage.

Types and varieties of melons

Melon (Melo), isolated as a separate genus, is represented by three dozen species, two of which are wild. Some of the species are native to China and Africa, although most grow in Central Asia, Afghanistan and Iran, and it was in these countries that the first cultivated varieties of melon appeared. Central Asian melons are considered the most fragrant and delicious. Among them, the most famous are:

  • Zard - Chardzhou smooth, spindle-shaped melon with a green skin, growing to a huge size - up to 25 kg and similar to a giant cucumber. In September, it is hard and tasteless, but when ripe in maturation, in winter it becomes fragrant, tender and sweet. One of the most delicious varieties of this type of Gulabi - these melons can be stored for six months;
  • Khandalyak - early, small and tender melons with pear flavor;
  • Amery - Bukhara oval melons, 5-10 kg in weight, with crispy flesh, exuding a vanilla aroma.

The melons of Asia Minor are also good, although they are inferior in taste to the Central Asian ones. The most famous types:

  • Cilician melon from Syria;
  • Kassaba from Turkey, practically without aroma.

European varieties are cooler climates derived from Central Asian melons. An example of a European variety is cantaloupe, a melon named after the papal estate of Cantaluppia. This is a segmented (ribbed) melon that does not have a special taste, but it can grow and bear fruit even in England.

European melon varieties are divided into early ripening - very early varieties that ripen in 60-70 days, summer melons - larger, covered with a net with a sweet, tender and aromatic pulp, and wintering - medium-sized melons with dark green or bronze, covered dense mesh skin with firm, crispy and sweet flesh. We offer you the best outdoor melon hybrids and varieties, bred for cultivation in our climatic conditions:

  • Blondie - a variety that ripens in 80-90 days, with a bright orange, tender and aromatic pulp and a thin, light, grayish-beige skin. The weight of slightly flattened, round segmented fruits containing carotene and a lot of sugar is up to 700 g;
  • Wintering - a late variety, which is difficult to grow in the middle lane, but in warmer regions, light yellow-green fruits without stripes ripen in 90 days, but with a coarse mesh over the skin with juicy, light green tender pulp. Fruit weight reaches 2.5 kg;
  • Altai - the fruits of this variety have a thin peel, oval shape, aromatic, tasty pulp and a weight of no more than one and a half kilograms. The variety was bred in Siberia and is successfully grown here;
  • Pineapple - one of the earliest varieties of oval shape with a golden skin covered with a net. Fragrant sweet pulp with a slightly pink hue. Fruit weight reaches 2 kg;
  • Honey - this variety is grown in the Mediterranean countries and in Morocco. Fruits are smooth, elongated or round, green in color. The pulp is green, yellowish or yellow-red, sweet and aromatic, containing potassium, manganese and vitamin A;
  • Galileo - a mid-early variety, bred specifically for cultivation in the south of Russia, with medium-sized fruits up to 1 kg in weight, the light brown skin of which is densely covered with a net, and the aromatic greenish pulp has a delicate taste;
  • Charente - a variety of French selection with the smallest fruits in this varietal group, which, moreover, are considered the most aromatic and tasty. Melons of this variety are similar to cantaloupe. Fruits are round, slightly flattened, on the peel there are smooth longitudinal grooves, the orange sweet pulp is very fragrant, in addition, low in calories and rich in vitamins;
  • Augen - Israeli hybrid variety with slightly flattened elongated fruits of greenish, yellow or yellow-green color with longitudinal notches, spots and stripes. The pulp is green, aromatic and sweet;
  • Story - an early ripe variety with elliptical yellow fruits weighing up to 2 kg without a pattern, but with weakly expressed segments and a sparse net. The pulp is light creamy, moderately aromatic, sweet, medium juiciness;
  • Moon - mid-early variety with oval, yellow and smooth fruits with a delicate net weighing up to 1 kg. The pulp is of medium juiciness and sweetness, creamy color and pleasant aroma.


  1. Read the topic on Wikipedia
  2. Features and other plants of the family Pumpkin
  3. List of all species on The Plant List
  4. More information on World Flora Online

Sections: Pumpkin Fruit Garden Plants Melons Plants for D

Venidium: growing from seed, when to plant

Growing Venidium from seeds is carried out mainly through seedlings. Sowing in open ground is possible only in regions of Russia with a warm climate, for example, in the Crimea. In the wild, an unusual plant is found in South Africa - this can explain the love of the sun and warmth. In temperate latitudes, Venidium is an annual flower, in its natural habitat it is perennial.

  1. Description of the plant
  2. Choosing a Venidium variety
  3. Venidium Fastuosum
  4. Prince zulu
  5. Dwarf hybrids
  6. Orange prince
  7. Venidiym calendulaceum
  8. Growing Venidium at home
  9. Seed sowing time
  10. Sowing rules
  11. Seedling care
  12. Conclusion


For planting such a heat-loving culture as a melon, light, well-warmed by the sun areas, as much as possible protected from the prevailing winds, are suitable. Residential or farm buildings located nearby, fruit and berry bushes and trees, as well as yoke crops (corn, sunflowers, legumes) planted in 2 rows along the perimeter of a melon bed can serve as shelter from the wind. From the point of view of crop rotation, cucumbers, onions, garlic, cabbage, corn, herbs, winter cereals, peas and beans are considered the best of the previous crops for melons - all pumpkin seeds, tomatoes and carrots. Melon cannot stand the neighborhood with potatoes and cucumbers, but it is friends with turnips, basil, radishes, radishes. Every year, the location of the melon beauty will have to be changed, since it is unacceptable to grow a melon on one site for more than 2 years. It will be possible to return it to its former place of growth without sacrificing yield only in the fifth year.

Planting seeds

For various reasons, the gardener may prefer the seedless method of growing melons. If certain conditions are met, this can be done in Siberia.

In open ground

In Siberia, a widespread method of growing various crops in warm beds. For its arrangement, they take out the top layer of earth with a thickness of about 20-30 cm and fill the resulting pit with organic waste, semi-rotten compost, and humus. A fence made of boards, flat slate is installed along the perimeter. The volume is filled with chernozem removed before. Over-heating, organic matter will warm the roots of plants. Arcs are installed along the bed, along which the film or covering material will be stretched.

Arches or a wooden frame are installed over a warm bed

The sowing time is calculated according to the above algorithm. The wells are marked and prepared for planting in the same way as in the seedling method of growing. In each hole, 3 seeds are sown to a depth of 2-3 cm, watered and covered with a black film. It is removed after germination of seeds and covered with agrofibre in arcs. Further actions with sprouts are the same as with seedlings. After the third true leaf, they are pinched, the excess sprouts are removed.

To the greenhouse

Planting seeds in a polycarbonate greenhouse is no different from the one just described.The only difference is the timing - seeds can be planted in a greenhouse 2-3 weeks earlier than under a shelter.

How to plant saxifrage in the ground

Saxifrage can be planted in the ground directly by seeds or seedlings. Each case has its own characteristics.


You can plant mature and grown seedlings in the ground in May or early June. Timing is focused on the growth rate of bushes and weather conditions.

Direct sowing of seeds into the ground can be carried out in April-May. The soil should warm up to 8-9 ° C. This option is recommended in the southern regions. In cooler climates, it is best to grow the seedlings first.

Site selection and preparation

The saxifrage is quite unpretentious, but nevertheless, some factors are important to it for good development and decorativeness. The plant site must meet the following requirements:

  • the place is bright, but protected from direct sunlight at noon
  • lack of moisture stagnation
  • the soil is fertile, moderately moist and light.

The saxifrage is capable of growing in direct sunlight. With an excess of light, the leaves can lighten significantly, there is a risk of burns, expressed by dark spots. Insufficient lighting is fraught with growth retardation, cessation of flowering.

The saxifrage feels good in a soil mixture of equal parts of sand, turf and humus. Add lime, peat, gravel effectively. The selected area must be thoroughly loosened and rid of large roots.

The saxifrage feels good among stones, on sloping areas

Planting saxifrage seeds in open ground

Stratification is not necessary for direct seeding in open ground. The seeds will pass naturally. Further work algorithm is as follows:

  1. Prepare the site.
  2. Spread the seeds over the loosened soil.
  3. Press the material firmly against the soil or sprinkle thinly with moistened sand.

After sowing the seeds, the bed can be covered with foil. It will not allow moisture to evaporate quickly and will maintain the optimal temperature.

When the sprouts have three true leaves, it is necessary to thin out the plantings, leaving the strongest specimens. Before this, abundant watering is recommended.

Many types of saxifrage grow well, forming a flower carpet - you can leave free space for this in advance

Landing algorithm

Transplanting saxifrage seedlings into open ground is not difficult. The algorithm is as follows:

  1. Prepare the site.
  2. Water the seedlings abundantly a few days before transplanting.
  3. Carefully remove the bushes from the containers, keeping the earthen lump.
  4. Plant the plants at intervals of 10-20 cm.

Watch the video: Watermelon plant growth from day 1 to 50 days cultivating process. watermelon seed to fruits