Miscellanea

Philodendron climbing

Philodendron climbing


Climbing philodendron is a houseplant that cannot grow without a so-called base, which is a tree. There are many varieties of philodendrons. This plant can reach enormous sizes, so a spacious room will be most suitable for them, in which it will be more comfortable to grow, and it will look much more interesting.

The philodendron has many so-called relatives, both in size and development. One of the most similar is the monstera (she, like the philodendron, is part of the aroid family, but of a slightly different species). The most affordable for growing in an ordinary small apartment is such a subspecies of philodendron as climbing. It, unlike others, can be grown in an ordinary pot, or basket, it will not take up much space, and it will not take much time for courting, as it is quite unpretentious, and grows well in the shade.

There are several more types of this culture, which will also grow pretty well in a small apartment. This can be considered a philodendron under such an interesting "name" as warty. The leaves of this plant are slightly more decorative than those of other species, but still, without a base, it will not grow beautiful and healthy.

Sello is another type of philodendron, which is distinguished by its beautiful, but not quite small leaves. Although the growth of this plant reaches a maximum of 1.5 meters, and, it would seem, will not bring inconvenience when grown in a cramped apartment, the plant can grow quite spaciously in width. Even if the plants differ in size, or they are of different types, then the care for them will be exactly the same (this is if the culture is grown at home).

Caring for a philodendron climbing at home

Temperature

Climbing philodendron tolerates heat well. If many other plants are quite difficult to tolerate the summer period of time, then the philodendron lives well, provided that it is constantly fed with moisture. The most comfortable air temperature is 25 degrees. In winter, the optimum temperature is not lower than 15 degrees. Drafts are considered the only enemy, so it is not recommended to grow crops outdoors.

Lighting

Almost all types of philodendrons prefer to grow in bright enough light. Even if the plant is located in a large foyer, or a spacious hall, light is still needed, despite its shade tolerance. There are only a few species of this culture that grow well in perfect shade without light, such are the climbing, as well as the blushing philodendron. Do not forget that the direct rays of the sun should not hit the plant.

Watering

Climbing Philodendron is a crop that prefers to grow with a sufficient amount of moisture, therefore one of the main factors for good growth is constant thorough watering. This is especially important on summer days, when the earth dries up instantly. After watering, when the ground is completely saturated, the drained water must be drained from the stand. But in winter, you need to water the plant rather carefully. If the air temperature is low enough, then excessive moisture can be detrimental. Both severe waterlogging and drying out will become destructive, so you need to carefully monitor both the air temperature and the condition of the soil. One important point in watering is water - there should be no lime in it.

Consequently, the water from the tap of a city apartment or house is not dangerous for the culture, but water from a well, or extracted with the help of a well, which necessarily includes a certain percentage of lime, is most likely not entirely suitable. There is a kind of philodendron - bottle philodendron, so this plant can easily endure several days without moisture, but no more. This species accumulates water in its leaves, so it can easily live without daily watering.

Humidity level

For the climbing philodendron, a sufficiently high humidity of the air itself is very important. When it is winter outside and the heating is turned on in the houses, the air is rather stale and dry, so it is advisable to spray the leaves with water every day or do a so-called shower. Sometimes a special pipe made of moss fibers, or coconut, serves as a support for such a plant. Moistening it can also moisturize the philodendron well. It must be remembered that both for watering and for wetting the tube must be lukewarm. Wiping all the leaves with a wet cloth will give the plant not only strength, but also make it brighter and more beautiful. Many people prefer to use a variety of leaf polishes.

Top dressing

Philodendron climbing actively grows for about eight months out of twelve. The most vigorous growth lasts from March to September. During this period, the plant especially needs constant feeding. A couple of times a month, during active growth, it is necessary to feed the culture. Best of all, special fertilizers are suitable for this, which fill the plants with all the necessary components and substances. It is believed that if the fertilizer contains nitrogen, the plant will grow faster. Therefore, if there is no special need for urgent growth, then you need to choose a fertilizer without nitrogen.

Transfer

The climbing philodendron needs periodic replanting. A young plant is transplanted every spring, and from the third year of life it can be transplanted at intervals of two years. Since the culture increases in size every year, the pot should be more spacious every year than the previous one. For already grown plants, it is enough to simply change the soil from above, replanting is no longer necessary. Only the pot should correspond to the size of the crop, because the plant simply dies in the cramped conditions. There are several options for the composition of the earth, but the best is a mixture of turf, peat and humus soil, and add sand. For adult plants, a mixture of peat, coniferous and leafy soil with sand is suitable.

Reproduction of the climbing philodendron

The climbing philodendron can reproduce in almost every part of it. For reproduction, you can take part of the trunk, the top of the plant, directly the roots, leaves, seeds. The apical cuttings are most used to propagate the philodendron. The most important condition for everything to go well is a temperature of up to 30 degrees and a sufficiently high humidity. Therefore, it is better to propagate a philodendron in summer or spring, in winter it is very difficult to create suitable conditions for such a process. In order to create the necessary humidity, you can take a special glass or polyethylene cap, an ordinary jar. In order for the cuttings to grow well, they must be constantly ventilated. This should be done every two days, or more often. If the stalk is rooting, then it is better to do this using damp sand. Philodendron needs to be pruned periodically, this will allow it to grow better, make it more rejuvenated.

Pests and diseases

If the climbing philodendron is properly looked after, all requirements are met, then harmful insects will not attack it. But in principle, there are several enemies for this type of plant. The most dangerous is the scabbard. It is dangerous because in the first intervals when it appears, it is not visible at all, it is so scanty. But settling on the leaves of the plant, the scale insect begins to suck the juice, as a result of which the culture dries up, the leaves wither, and in the end, the plant simply dies. Spider mites and thrips are other nasty enemies that also wreak havoc on the plant.

It must be remembered that climbing philodendron can be quite dangerous to human health. The juice that they produce can have a very bad effect on the mucous membrane and just on the skin. To avoid all kinds of injury, you need to take precautions. When caring for a climbing philodendron, it is imperative to wear gloves so that the juice does not fall on exposed skin. The tool used to care for the culture must be thoroughly washed, as well as the hands, in spite of the fact that they were wearing gloves. If there are children in the house, then in no case should they be allowed to touch the plant. Animals also need to be kept away from the philodendron, because the hardest thing to explain to them is that this is dangerous.


Philodendron

Aroid family.

This genus has up to 250 species. Among them are treelike, shrub, climbing or creeping plants with long aerial roots.
Leaves and flowers, depending on the species, differ from each other in shape and color.

All types of philodendron are heat-loving plants. The optimum temperature for keeping in the summer is 20-24 ° C in winter - 15-17 ° C. The plant needs high humidity and diffused lighting.

Philodendrons are propagated by cuttings of shoots, air layers, seeds. The cuttings are rooted in sand, which must be constantly moistened. For better rooting, it is necessary to warm up the soil (27-30 ° C). The plant is transplanted once every 2-3 years in spring into fresh soil, made up of equal parts of humus and deciduous soil, peat and sand with the addition of bone meal.

During the period of active growth, the philodendron especially needs frequent abundant watering and frequent spraying of the leaves with water.

Among indoor species philodendron common philodendron climbing, philodendron scaly, philodendron Andre, philodendron graceful, philodendron reddish, philodendron spotted.

Philodendron climbing has herbaceous, climbing, not very strongly branching stems. A large number of aerial roots are located on thin shoots. The leaves are dense, elongated, cordate, with a pointed tip, dark green in color. In young specimens, the underside of the leaf has a reddish brown tint. The plant prefers shaded areas, can tolerate dry air. In winter, the room temperature should not drop below 15 ° C. In summer, regular watering is required, in winter the plant is rarely watered. In the summer, fertilizers are applied to the soil.

Young specimens are transplanted annually in spring, and old ones - once every 2-3 years, while it is necessary to replace the topsoil with a fresh one annually.

For vegetative propagation, the apical cuttings should have three fully developed leaves, and the stem cutting should have at least one leaf.
Cuttings are rooted in sand, sand with peat, peat or sand with chopped moss. After rooting, 3-4 cuttings are planted in pots to make the plant look more decorative.

Climbing philodendron requires a lot of space, so it is better to use it for landscaping spacious rooms.

Philodendron scaly has a stiff-pubescent stem with large (25-30 cm in length) bright green five-lobed leaves. Looks very impressive in flower arrangements, winter gardens.

Philodendron Andre - liana with a long climbing stem and very beautiful decorative velvety leaves. The leaves are wide, heart-shaped, elongated, their color is olive green, dark, the central vein of the leaf is light green. Young leaves have a red-brown tint, the leaf blade is silky smooth. Philodendron Andre needs support.

Philodendron graceful - unbranched herbaceous vine with long, thick, succulent climbing stems. The leaves are very large (up to 50 cm in length), located on long petioles (30-40 cm). Leaves are pinnate, dark green, smooth, shiny.
This species reproduces easily and grows rapidly. It requires a lot of space, therefore it is often used to decorate spacious rooms.

Philodendron reddish - a herbaceous plant with climbing stems that cling to the support with long adventitious roots. The leaves are elongated-heart-shaped, the lower surface of the leaf is reddish, the upper one is bright green, shiny.

Philodendron spotted has a long curly, rough stem, swollen at the nodes. The leaves are elongated, cordate, dark green in color, with light veins. On the lower part of the leaf there are large oval-round spots of crimson-red color. Blooms in late spring - early summer.

Philodendron is mainly used for landscaping of large premises - foyers, halls, winter gardens... Plants of this species need to be supported, which is wrapped in bog moss (sphagnum). Penetrating inside the moss, the roots find food for themselves, and the plant develops quickly and luxuriantly.

Philodendrons have one feature - before inclement weather is approaching water droplets form at the ends of the leaves - tears.


Flowers in the bathroom

The bathroom is not at all the ideal place for plants, as some think. Despite the high humidity, there are many inconveniences for them, so you should carefully select the plants.

Plants concentrated near a window usually do not receive enough natural light, but when placed in all accessible places, they leave a very pleasant impression. Typically, bathroom conditions are characterized by alternating short periods of high temperature and humidity and longer periods of time when it is cool, especially if the heating is temporarily turned off. The windows are often small and the lighting is poor. Plants have to put up with the use of aerosols, sprays and talcum powder, which inevitably falls on them. All this does not make life easier for plants in the bathroom.


Plants concentrated near a window usually do not receive enough natural light, but when placed in all accessible places, they leave a very pleasant impression.

The best places

Try to keep your plants out of the spray from the tub and sink. The edge of the tub is not the safest place to place the pots, and the lighting is unimportant.

Make the most of windowsills, especially for flowering plants. Deciduous plants such as aspidistra and asparagus can be placed in the back of the room. It is better to place them in front of a mirror, where they will receive the reflected light and will themselves appear larger.

Hardy climbing plants such as ivy and Philodendron scandens will look good hanging from a high shelf and framing a mirror.

Plants as different as hardy ivy and adiantum capillus-veneris can thrive in the bathroom. Ivy are content with low light and fern love high humidity.Place small flowering plants, such as Saintpaulias and Kalanchoe, on a homemade table or mirror, placing them in cute planters to match the setting. They won't last long in the bathroom, but they'll look good for a few weeks and then you'll have to replace them.


Plants as different as hardy ivy and adiantum capillus-veneris can thrive in the bathroom. The ivy is content with low light, while the fern loves high humidity.

Care features

Plants in the bathroom need more regular maintenance than others. The leaves should be washed at least once a week. Since it is difficult to remove powder from pubescent plants, it is best to avoid them. If the plants are heavily contaminated with sprays and powder, try rinsing the leaves under running water, especially if there are so many of them that it is tedious to wipe each leaf separately. If soap, shampoo, or toothpaste gets on the sheet, wipe it off immediately. If poor lighting makes plants reach for the window, turn them regularly.

As soon as the plants don't look good, replace them with others. When they come to their senses in a month or two, change them again.

The bathroom is not at all the ideal place for plants, as some think. Despite the high humidity, there are many inconveniences for them, so you should carefully select the plants.

Plants concentrated near a window usually do not receive enough natural light, but when placed in all accessible places, they leave a very pleasant impression. Typically, bathroom conditions are characterized by alternating short periods of high temperature and humidity and longer periods of time when it is cool, especially if the heating is temporarily turned off. The windows are often small and the lighting is poor. Plants have to put up with the use of aerosols, sprays and talcum powder, which inevitably falls on them. All this does not make life easier for plants in the bathroom.


Plants concentrated near a window usually do not receive enough natural light, but when placed in all accessible places, they leave a very pleasant impression.

The best places

Try to keep your plants out of the spray from the tub and sink. The edge of the tub is not the safest place to place the pots, and the lighting is unimportant.

Make the most of windowsills, especially for flowering plants. Deciduous plants such as aspidistra and asparagus can be placed in the back of the room. It is better to place them in front of a mirror, where they will receive the reflected light and will themselves appear larger.

Hardy climbing plants such as ivy and Philodendron scandens will look good hanging from a high shelf and framing a mirror.

Plants as different as hardy ivy and adiantum capillus-veneris can thrive in the bathroom. Ivy are content with low light and fern love high humidity.Place small flowering plants, such as Saintpaulias and Kalanchoe, on a homemade table or mirror, placing them in cute planters to match the setting. They won't last long in the bathroom, but they'll look good for a few weeks and then you'll have to replace them.


The climbing philodendron (Philodendron scandens) is not bad as an ampelous plant, and the spathiphyllum, with its glossy green leaves and white, like sails, inflorescences, is always elegant. Flowering plants such as cyclamen can be placed here for a short time.

Suitable plants

The following plants usually grow well in the bathroom:

  • Japanese Fatsia (Fatsiajaponica),
  • Monstera deliciosa,
  • Philodendron double-peristalis (Pbilodendron bipinnatifldum).

  • Epipremnum golden (Epipremnum aureum, or Scindapsus aureus)
  • Climbing Philodendron (Pbilodendron scandens)
  • small-leaved ivy.


Use ampelous plants more widely. There is usually little light in the bathroom, but by moving plants from room to room, you can decorate all corners of the house with them.

  • Types of aglaonema and their variations,
  • Aspidistra high (Aspidistra elatior),
  • Hamedorea graceful (Chamaedorea elegans, or Neantbe bella).

Short-lived flowering plants

  • Chrysanthemums,
  • cyclamens
  • exacums.

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Philodendron

Aroid family. Homeland of the rainforests of South America. Among the representatives of this genus there are also tall tree-like plants and vines. Aerial roots are formed in the leaf axils of all types of philodendrons.

At home, ampelous species are more common. Philodendrons grow very well, tied to a support, which is an ideal tube with moss. Aerial roots are not removed, but tied up or directed to the support. When buying large species of philodendrons, keep in mind that they will need room for the room. With a lack of space, feathery leaves are often injured or torn. When placed close to a window pane, if the plant is in a hallway or staircase, it may leave scars or frost-glass stains or sunburn.

The philodendron is homemade.

Philodendron domesticum is a liana with glossy arrow-shaped leaves up to 35-40 cm long, bright green, delicate in color. It grows quickly, easily grows to the ceiling, needs support. It is found under a different name - Philodendron spear-shaped Philodendron hastatum.

Philodendron is graceful.

Philodendron elegans is a large-leaved vine that looks somewhat like a monster. The leaves are deeply pinnate and divided into narrow segments up to the very central vein. The general outline of the leaf is oblong or ovate, about 40-50 cm wide and 50-70 cm long. Growing pretty fast. Needs support. It is also found under a different name - Philodendron narrowly dissected Philodendron angustisectum.

Philodendron climbing.

Philodendron scandens - This ampelous plant is well suited for growing in hanging baskets. Leaves are small, leathery, heart-shaped - 8-15 cm long and 5-10 wide. There are several varieties. One of the most shade-tolerant species. In addition, it is the smallest type of philodendron and, perhaps, the most unpretentious.

Philodendron double-periston cut.

Philodendron bipennifolium is a tree-like plant with an erect stem. The leaves are large, up to 50-60 cm long, heart-shaped. It grows up slowly, but takes up a lot of space in width - almost half of the room. It is found under a different name - Philodendron guitar Philodendron panduriforme.

Philodendron Sello.

Philodendron selloum is an epiphytic, tree-like plant with large, deeply pinnate leaves up to 60-80 cm long, ovoid. The edges of the cut leaves are not even, but curly. Grows at home about 1.5-1.7 m

Scaly philodendron.

Philodendron squamiferum is a large-leaved vine. The leaves are split five-lobed, up to 25-30 cm long. Petioles are reddish with scaly hairs.

Other types:

Philodendron black and golden Philodendron melanochrysum is a large liana, heart-shaped leaves up to 60 cm long. Leaves with copper sheen and white veins. It grows rather slowly, but at home it will grow to the ceiling. The winter minimum for this type of philodendron is 16-18 ° C.

Philodendron perforatum - see Monstera

Philodendron marble Philodendron - This ampelous plant is also well suited for growing in hanging baskets. The leaves are large, with a velvety surface, heart-shaped, up to 20 cm long. The leaves are light green with wide silvery stripes along the lateral veins.

Also on sale you can find hybrids of philodendron, for example, Hybrid Philodendron “Red Emerald”, or “Blue Mink”, or “Purple Prince”, etc.

CARE TIPS

Temperature: Moderate, about 18-20 ° С in summer, not lower than 15 ° С in winter. Avoid cold drafts.
Lighting: Bright place, protected from direct sunlight, light partial shade. Variegated forms, slightly more light, but also in a semi-shaded place. Climbing philodendron can grow in more shaded areas.
Watering: In spring and summer, moderate, the soil should be moist all the time. In winter, watering is reduced, but the soil is not allowed to dry out, at this time the soil is only slightly damp. With an excess of watering, the lower leaves may turn yellow, if there is not enough, the tips of the leaves dry out.
Fertilizer: From March to October, philodendrons are fed with a complex fertilizer for indoor plants. Top dressing every two weeks. For large tree-like vines, humus can be added to the top layer of the earth once a summer, with or without transplantation.
Air humidity: Philodendrons need to be regularly sprayed in spring and summer, as well as in winter if there is a heating system nearby. Small plants are given a shower several times over the summer. In large plants, dust is regularly wiped off the leaves with a damp sponge.
Transplant: In spring, every year young plants and after three to four years old. Soil 2-3 parts of sod, 1 part of peat land, 1 part of humus, 0.5 part of sand. When large specimens are grown in too close a pot, spots appear on the leaves, they turn yellow, the plants stunted.
Reproduction: Apical or stem cuttings. For rooting, it is better to use soil heating and cover with a film. Large vines can be propagated with a leaf cut from the heel.

In astrology, it is considered a Virgo plant.
In ASTROLOGY, philodendrons and MONSTERS are also called protectors. Their straight and beautiful leaves are a constant source of upward currents of energy. They are a minifactory for the production of energy that is useful for human accommodation.


THE SYSTEM OF PLANTING WINTER GARDENS

Bulgakova K.V. (Oryol State Agrarian University named after V.I.

Bulgakova K.V. (Orel State Agrarian University N.V. Parahina, Orel, Russia)

The article discusses the possibilities of using the technology of landscaping winter gardens, as an element of landscape design, as well as the stages of their formation.

The article considers possibilities of application of technologies of planting of greenery of the winter gardens as a landscaping element, as well as the stages of forming them.

Keywords: winter garden, landscape gardening, decorative gardening, green plants, "purely English construction", indoor greenhouses, "green" living room, phytoncides, fruit trees, tropical forest, coastal landscape, rocky landscape, flowering garden, water lily garden, garden florarium, garden waterfall.

Keywords: winter garden the art of gardening, ornamental gardening, a green plant, "a purely English design", indoor greenhouses, green living, volatile, fruit, rainforest, coastal landscape, rocky landscape, a blooming garden, a garden of water lilies , garden-Floriana, garden waterfall.

The Winter Garden is a room specially designated for landscaping, which combines plants with elements of small architecture, water and stone. Building a winter garden requires knowledge of ornamental gardening, engineering and architecture.

The principles of creating a winter garden depend not only on design, but also on gardening art. The main purpose of the winter garden is to extend the time spent by a person among green plants.

Man has always tried to tame nature, in spite of the climate, to grow plants that are not typical for the area. Wealthy citizens of ancient Rome were the first to pay tribute to winter gardens [1:18]. Despite this, the winter garden is considered a "purely English construction". It was the British at the beginning of the 19th century who made conservatories really fashionable - glass greenhouses that give plants an eternal summer [1:56].

The prototype of Russian winter gardens can be both the roof gardens of the times of Tsar Mikhail Romanov and the covered greenhouses common in the manor houses of the late 18th century [1: 123].

Manor houses' covered winter gardens were most often built as separate pavilions, occupying quite large areas. Sometimes they were an extension to a residential building, a kind of "green" living room.

In recent years, in our country, more and more attention is paid to landscaping the interiors of public premises. Some indoor greenhouse plants have discovered phytoncidal properties and the ability to create an optimal sanitary and hygienic regime in the premises. In addition,

You can choose one of three types of winter gardens used in central Russia:

• temperature 20-25 ° С and humidity not lower than 70% - this is an additional living room with a peculiar interior

• the autumn-winter period, the temperature is 12-15 ° C, and the humidity in the summer can rise up to 75% - how the living room is used more intensively in the warm season

• winter period, temperature 5-10 ° C. Despite the rather cool atmosphere, many plants survive the dormant period wonderfully here, and people are happy to relax in the fresh, invigorating air.

However, it should be noted that the design of winter gardens is diverse, especially with regard to the compositional solution. Compositional techniques of winter gardens are based on the principles of modern gardening art of small gardens. The practice of such borrowing shows great opportunities, examples are [2: 203]:

• fruit (citrus) - citrus (lemon), coffee trees, pomegranate, pineapple, feijoa are suitable for creating an orchard. The decorative effect of such a garden is given by original fruits.

• tropical forest - various palms, lianas, bromeliads, ferns, ficuses, ground cover are suitable to imitate a tropical landscape. Here you can also arrange an artificial reservoir, a fountain, a cascade.

• coastal landscape - a composition up to one and a half meters high in containers, a small reservoir, a fountain or a cascade. Plants with a weeping crown shape, large ferns, aglaonemes, philodendrons, dracaena, spathiphyllum, dieffenbachia, anthurium, syngonium, ivy. In the background, there is always a tall plant - monstera, ficus.

• rocky landscape - the composition is placed against the background of an untreated stone surface. Some of the plants are placed in a vertical plane, in the cracks between stones, slabs, and some - at the foot of the rock (stone). Agaves, cacti, saxifrage, aloe, fat women (epiphytes and succulents) are used.

• blooming garden - the composition can be composed of beautifully flowering plants with large, brightly colored flowers: oleander (pink, white double flowers with a strong smell), azaleas, hippeastrum, passionflower (liana), etc.

• water lily garden, florarium garden, waterfall garden.

The limited area of ​​the garden makes it necessary to resort to such planning techniques that illusoryly increase the space of the garden. For example, using a path with turns, you can alternately open one or the other corner of the garden.

Due to the small size of winter gardens, projects on them are made on a scale of 1:25, 1:50, 1: 100, depending on the area of ​​the garden. Designing should begin with determining the functional purpose of the winter garden and its thematic affiliation - this will reveal the species composition of plants. Next, you need to think over the logical and correct placement of paths, plants and other elements of the garden, depending on its purpose.

The assortment for winter gardens includes a variety of different plant forms, different geographic locations, the practical use of certain species, etc.

On how well the assortment of plants in the composition is selected, its decorativeness, durability, emotional impact on a person, influence on the microclimate of the room depend. The assortment for such gardens should include plants of different sizes, differing in habit and dense crown, color of leaves and their shape, and the ability to withstand the shaping (shearing) of the bush. It should include: beautifully flowering herbaceous plants (including bulbs) for flower arrangements, climbing and ampelous for vertical gardening, evergreens for creating a background and succulents for compositions using stone.

The range of ornamental plants for indoor landscaping is constantly expanding, which opens up prospects for the widespread use of these plants in the design of winter gardens.

For convenience, the plants are grouped according to the characteristics of their economic use in landscaping:

• Large-sized (tub) plants - Alokazia, Anthurium, Banana, Dieffenbachia variegated, Pandanus, Rafidophora, Strelitzia, Ficus, Philodendron

• Lianas and ampelous plants - Climbing Philodendron, Syngonium, Golden Scindapsus

• Beautifully flowering supplementary plants - Chinese Rose, Poin-Settia, Caladium bicolor, Caladium, Codisum variegated, Bougainvillea, Vallotta purple

• Ground cover plants - Ivy, Japanese Ophiopogon.

In order for the winter garden to be filled with harmony and beauty, the landscaping of the winter garden should be systematic. Using modern technologies of landscape design and phyto-interior, we can safely combine various styles and directions of landscaping winter gardens. However, in the end, you should get a single composition of plants that will delight you with bright colors and colors, regardless of the season.

Thus, when creating a winter garden, one should take into account the height of the plants, the peculiarity of the structure of the crown, the color and shape of the leaves, the time, duration and abundance of flowering, the color and size of flowers and inflorescences. At the same time, the concept of landscaping a winter garden must meet its assigned functional role.All this is aimed at creating favorable conditions for living in the city, not only from an aesthetic, but also a sanitary and hygienic point of view. This is what makes it necessary to develop this method in the city of Oryol with the development of appropriate projects for the improvement of urban areas.

List of sources used

1. Ozhegov S.S. History of landscape architecture. - Moscow: Architecture - C, 1976.

2. Popova Y. Big book of garden design. - Moscow: Eksmo, 2010.

3. Winter gardens [Electronic resource] Access mode:


Growing features

You need to transplant Philodendrons at home in the spring (March or April), young every year, and adults every 2 or 3 seasons. It is advisable to change the topsoil after each winter. You should not choose a large pots in advance, a large amount of substrate that is not occupied by the roots accumulates moisture, such an environment is destructive for the plant. The pot should be selected 3-4 cm wider and deeper than the volume of the root system.

The substrate should be nutritious, non-acidic and friable, a mixture of ordinary (garden or vegetable) soil with peat and leaf humus at the rate of 1: 1: 0, 5 is suitable. To give a light structure, it is advisable to add coarse sand or perlite. Another option is sod and leafy land with sand (1: 3: 1). If you do not want to mess with the earth, you can buy a mixture for Saintpaulia. Disinfecting treatment of any soil is required. A layer (1, 5–2 cm) of drainage material must be laid on the bottom of the planter.

Philodendrons tolerate shade well, but plants thrive better in moderate, diffuse lighting. Variegated forms lose their zest when there is a lack of light. Direct rays of the sun harm the flower. Large vines do not fit on the windowsill, so the best location is next to the east window or in the back of the south room. Plants do not like drafts; in summer, the room temperature should be kept within 18-22 ° C, and in winter at least 15 ° C. During short daylight hours, it is advisable to install lamps.

The support should be strong, and for large varieties it should also be high enough. It can be a plastic, wood, metal tube wrapped in coconut fiber or covered with moss. The best option is a bamboo stick, which can be purchased at a flower shop. You need to install the support when planting or replanting, bury the lower edge into the ground for stability.

Home care

You can not put pots with Philodendrons near heating devices, overdried air will lead to damage and deformation of the leaves. The plant is tropical, adapted to a humid environment, some varieties do not tolerate dryness at all. Regular spraying (2 or 3 times a day) of the leaves is the key to the good development of Philodendron. Another important point is that the air in the room must always be fresh; when ventilating, the temperature regime must be observed.

In summer, the plant should be watered at least 1-2 times a week (in moderation), making sure that the soil does not dry out more than 1/3 of the depth. In winter, the amount of moisture can be reduced to once every 7 days. In the hot season, if possible, it is advisable for Philodendron to arrange a "bathing" in the shower and take it outside, covering it from the sun and wind. Waterlogging and stagnation of moisture should not be allowed, otherwise the roots will rot. Water for irrigation is taken at room temperature.

The diet should be strict, the lack and excess of fertilizers will negatively affect the development of plants. From spring to late autumn, feeding should be done once a week, and in winter - a month. Organics and minerals (in liquid form) are suitable, however, the concentration of fertilizers should always be low. Variegated flower varieties cannot be overfed with nitrogen, the plates will turn completely green or turn pale.

Reproduction methods

Growing Philodendron from seeds is a troublesome task, young seedlings will need special conditions that are not so easy to create in an apartment. Another problem is to buy high-quality seeds that will definitely sprout is very difficult. At home, the plant is propagated by cuttings and layering. Both methods are simple and do not require any special skills:

  1. Cuttings (from apical or stem shoots) - there should be at least 2 leaves on each plot, even better if there are aerial roots. The lower part (2-3 cm) of the cuttings should be placed in a moistened sand-peat mixture, covered with polyethylene and kept at a temperature of 25 ° C, periodically watering the substrate.
  2. Layers - vine shoots need to be placed and fixed on the ground. As soon as roots appear in the nodules, the stems should be cut, immediately transplant the plot into a separate pots.

Cuttings can be rooted in water. If mold or rot appears on the cut, the damaged area should be cut to healthy tissue, the wound should be treated with charcoal or dry, ground mustard. Some varieties lend themselves well to leaf propagation. The leaf must be cut off along with the heel, placed in water or in a light substrate, placed in a warm place. When the roots appear, a new leaf will grow.

Diseases and pests

Philodendrons are susceptible to damage by the scale insect, mealybug, nematode, slugs, sciaris, pseudo-scale and spider mites, pests need to be dealt with quickly. With a massive defeat, it is almost impossible to save the plant. Shop insecticides (biological and chemical) are suitable, folk remedies give a very weak and not long-term effect. Common diseases:

  • bacterial and fungal spots
  • root and stem rot
  • red border
  • leaf spot.

Less often, Philodendrons suffer from viral diseases, they stop growing, the leaves are deformed, the surface of the plates is covered with atypical patterns (stripes, mosaics, strokes). Bushes die very quickly. Plants need to be treated only with appropriate fungicides, strictly according to the instructions, follow the recommendations for the preparation of solutions and the frequency of treatments. In most cases, a transplant is required after treatment. In the table, we describe the common problems when growing a flower.

The tips and edges of the leaves dry out

Leaves lose their variegated color and dissection

Leaves shriveled, turned brown

Wide brown border around the edge of the plates

Young leaves grow small and pale

Dry, light or brown-black spots on the plates

Loss of intense color

The plates are curled down

New leaves are pale and small, old ones lose their variegated color and dissection

Lack of useful elements

Do not worry if droplets of water appear on the leaves of Philodendron, so the plant gets rid of excess moisture. A natural process is yellowing and falling off of old plates. Finally, we will give some more tips for care. Leaves and shoots should be periodically wiped from dust with a soft cloth, if the surface is velvety, it is better to replace the spraying procedure. It is advisable to moisten the props, if they are wrapped in moss or coconut fiber.