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Weed control on your lawn or how to properly save your lawn

Weed control on your lawn or how to properly save your lawn


If weeds were raging on the grown young lawn, it is time to declare immediate war on them. Otherwise, the fragile grass will be squeezed out by the more powerful root system of weeds, and when they enter the insemination phase, it will become much more difficult to remove them. Tune in that weed control on the lawn will become one of the points of constant lawn care, because dandelions, wheatgrass and other perennials can make their way through even a three-year sod.

The beginning of the struggle six months before sowing grass

According to the rules of agricultural technology, the first fight is given to weeds even when they are just beginning to prepare a site for creating a lawn. Those. the owner outlines the boundaries of the future lawn and from the heart sheds its surface with continuous herbicides that destroy all vegetation without exception. These drugs include Agrokiller, Tornado, etc.

A comparative review of weed control products will also be useful: https://diz-cafe.com/ozelenenie/sredstva-ot-sornyakov-na-ogorode.html

The effect of herbicides appears 5-7 days after spraying, and the plants gradually dry out. After 2 weeks, you can dig up the ground, select all the roots of weedy perennials and roll the site without sowing it. Then they wait for a fresh crop of weeds to rise on the finished field, spill it with the same herbicides and leave it alone for a month until the chemistry is completely decomposed.

During the preparation of the site for sowing lawn grasses, the land is treated with herbicides twice: before digging up and after the appearance of the first weeds

Sowing of herbs begins no earlier than a month after spilling with herbicides. Otherwise, the poison remaining in the ground can partially destroy the seeds.

As you can see, the preliminary struggle is extended in time, and it is better to start it either in the summer and sow grass in the fall, or in August-September, leaving the lawn under fallow for the winter, and sowing it in early spring. This method of processing perfectly burns out annual plants, which especially bother the lawn in the first year of life. But the roots of dandelion, wheatgrass, plantain can still be preserved in the soil even after such harsh chemical weeding.

You can learn how to choose the right grass for planting a lawn from the material: https://diz-cafe.com/ozelenenie/kakuyu-travu-vybrat-dlya-gazona.html

Weed control in the first season of lawn life

If the preliminary treatment of the weeds was not carried out, then in the first season they will actively begin to win a place under the sun from thin shoots of grasses. Honestly, even after herbicides, harmful neighbors will still appear, but not in such quantities. Therefore, the struggle continues, but becomes more careful in order to preserve young greens.

Cosmetic haircuts: inhibit the growth of annuals

To destroy annual weeds on lawns, they try to mow them together with the grass before flowering. In this case, they will not have time to form seeds and scatter them over the site. The roots of annuals will not die out from cutting, but the plant will become weakened. Repeated and subsequent mowing will finally finish off the pests. They cut the lawn as it overgrows, but at least once every two weeks.

Advice! Try to carry out the first mowing only when the blades of grass rise to a height of about 7 cm, otherwise it will be difficult for them to recover.

Rake combing: eliminates creeping undersized weeds

In addition to annuals, there are creeping plants that do not fall under the cutting height and calmly develop further. This includes woodlice, bindweed, etc. They are fought with by combing the lawn with a rake. When mowing with the trimmers, you still have to scoop up the grass left on the lawn, but you don't need to collect anything behind the lawn mowers. Therefore, the owners specially comb the lawn in order to undermine the roots of creepers and remove the felt that accumulates near the roots of the grass. Felt is formed by dried blades of grass. If left untouched, the quality of the lawn will deteriorate and bald spots may form.

Inventory and devices for the war with perennials

The most terrible enemy of the lawn is perennials with powerful rhizomes: sow-thistle, dandelion, plantain, etc. You cannot take them with braids and mowers, because dormant buds will instantly wake up on the roots, which will grow an even more powerful plant. This type of weed is removed only by hand in the first year of the lawn's life. Moreover, it is necessary to remove it so that the entire root is stretched out. The slightest residue will form a new weed.

If there has been no rain for a long time, then pulling out perennial weeds with your hands is useless: some of the roots will still remain in the soil

If you carry out the whole procedure with your own hands, then the only convenient time is after prolonged rains. The soil should be so wet that the roots simply slip out of it. But it happens that the weather did not provide you with such an opportunity, and time does not bear it. In this case, use garden tools designed to dig up these weeds. There are several options available.

Weed extractor. Developed by the German company GARDENA specifically for gardeners who, for health reasons, cannot weed bent. Has a length of 110 cm so that you can remove weeds while standing. The principle of operation: you insert with a tip into the center of the weed, scroll and pull along with the plant. The device is expensive, but experienced gardeners claim that it pays off.

The principle of operation of the weed extractor is simple: you insert the pin into the ground with force, rotate it 180 degrees and take out the plant along with root

A shovel for eliminating rhizome weeds (the second name is a root remover). It is similar in shape to a child's shoulder blade, only the working part is narrow and elongated to 30 cm. The metal is bent at an angle to cover the weed from different sides. It goes deep into the soil, lifting the plant along with the roots, but in order to drive the tool into a perennial lawn, you will have to exert considerable force. Such a tool is produced by both GARDENA and the Russian brand Sibrtech.

The root remover easily enters the soft soil of a young lawn, but it must be driven with effort into the tightly interwoven turf

If you do not have enough funds for such a purchase, take a metal corner half a meter long or more, sharpen its edge at an angle and weld the handle on top so that you can grab it with both hands (it resembles a sword in shape). You can drive this corner to a sufficient depth and pry even huge horseradish roots. True, you have to bend down to stretch the plant.

The material on lawn care technology will also be useful: https://diz-cafe.com/ozelenenie/uxod-za-gazonom.html

Using any of the above tools will leave an empty soil pit on your lawn after weed has been removed. It must be trampled down immediately, and if the diameter is large, then sow the grass, otherwise the wind will cause new weeds.

Lawn cleaning rules at age

Don't expect your lawn grass to get rid of the weeds in a year. With all your efforts, the seeds will still germinate, because there are billions of them in the soil. Therefore, even on a dense rooted lawn, enemies periodically appear. If the lawn is already a year old or more, go to chemical attacks with selective herbicides. The most popular is the Lontrel Zood, created specifically for the treatment of strawberry plantations and lawns. It destroys all vegetation on the lawn, except for grasses. Especially good against dandelions. The sites are processed a week after mowing.

If perennials are not scattered all over the site, but only in certain places, then acupuncture can be applied. To do this, use an ordinary medical syringe, into which a ready-made herbicide solution is poured. Insert the tip into the center of the weed and release the poison directly into the stem and root of the root. This method will allow not to overload cereals with chemistry, and the dandelion, which was inoculated, will gradually dry out and disappear. At the same time, an empty space will not appear on the lawn, which will have to be sown.

Herbicides are sprayed not over the entire lawn area, but locally, in places where weeds accumulate, so as not to once again poison the cereals with chemistry

Why is the lawn overgrown with moss and lichen?

If mosses and lichens became the problem of the lawn, then their appearance was provoked by poor care and waterlogging of the soil. Try first to improve the aeration by piercing the turf with garden species or special foot aerators. Feed the grass and produce it. And if that doesn't work, you'll have to think about drainage ditches from the edges of your lawn.

Often mosses and lichens disappear from the lawn after you establish constant aeration by piercing the turf with a garden pitchfork once a week.

Often, mosses attack a lawn located in a shady place. If the trees are shading, try pruning them slightly and thinning the branches. And to make your lawn even more beneficial from weed control, make a liquid fertilizer out of them and periodically feed the grass.

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Lawn weed control rating

Date of publication: May 25 at 13:35 Author: Angelina

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Description

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The rating is based on the best remedies for Russian weeds. The best weed control for large areas: budget over 100 rubles. The best cost of the drug for flower beds and lawns Country: Denmark Average price: 11 rubles. Rating (2019): 4.7. This drug can be found. Rating of effective means against weeds in the country. It is necessary to select a remedy for the grass so that it does not grow later. No. 10. On the lawn. For lawn grass, preparations are suitable that are used immediately before sowing. The most effective herbicide is Tornado. This remedy for weeds on the lawn is highly effective, simple. Continuous herbicides can be used before sowing lawn grass or to remove all lawn vegetation on the lawn. If it is decided on the site of the lawn to develop the land for later. Lawn maintenance is a complex process that equates to art. The main problem is weed control. Because of them, the lawn becomes heterogeneous and receives less nutrients from the soil. The easiest option is to use. In the article, you will find an overview of the best lawn chemical herbicides. As well as information on when chemical weeding can be used, how often, and what measures can be taken to prevent the appearance of weeds on the lawn. Herbicides are preparations for killing weeds. They are classified as solid or selective formulations. What herbicides are most effective against dandelion, hogweed and other perennial weeds: reviews. Rating of herbicides for weeds, and how to choose the right one for different ones. Selective herbicide intended for use on lawns. For lawn grass. Herbicides for the lawn against weeds before sowing - Tornado. Deimos, Lontrel will help to remove dandelions from lawns. This selective lawn weed control not only destroys annual dicotyledonous and cereal weeds, but additionally protects the lawn from germination of new unwanted plants for a long time. Of course, the weeds will crawl before the grass. Initially only mow. When the grass begins to bush (after about the third. Herbicides work better if the lawn is watered and fed. They do not work in dry and cold weather.

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Operating principle

Scarifier Makita UV3600

The design of the working mechanism is a shaft with spring teeth mounted on it, which trim and remove the dried grass layer.

The position of the working device relative to the ground is set by a regulator installed on the device. The scarifier moves around the lawn and combes the grass cover. In the lower position of the shaft, the springs scratch the topsoil.

In gasoline and electric machines, cut organic waste is automatically collected in a plastic container or cloth bag. As the contents of the container are filled, they are disposed of or incinerated. It is not recommended to put the collected material in compost heaps, as it may contain spores of fungi, bacteria or larvae of garden pests.


Agrotechnics

Weeding and digging

Traditional methods of weed control, used in agrarian business for a long time. These are environmentally safe methods, quite reliable, but requiring a lot of effort and effort.

As a rule, these manipulations, in any case, cannot be dispensed with, therefore weeding the beds and digging it up in any case have to be periodically performed.

You can familiarize yourself with the modern methods of fighting in the garden here.

Mulching

Quite an effective method that does not pollute the soil with harmful substances. Along with protecting against weeds, mulching helps to retain moisture in the ground, which also has a beneficial effect on plant development.

Mulching can be done both with organic materials (sand, sawdust, grass, peat, etc.) and inorganic (covering fabrics). The principle of action of mulch is that it blocks the access of light and air for the weeds, because of which the weed dies, unable to get out.

You can read reviews about the Tornado weed extractor here.

Of inorganic materials for weed control, black opaque film is most often used. This is the so-called Swedish weed control method. The material allows you to safely and environmentally friendly get rid of weeds (just by preventing them from germinating).

Such a film, although not cheap, however, can be used for several years: it is usually used to protect vegetable and strawberry beds.


How to deal with weeds, moss, lichens on the lawn

Appearance problem on the weed lawn and fight with them, sooner or later it becomes relevant for every summer resident. It is best to tackle it before it has grown with uninvited guests. Weeds on the lawn all plants that do not belong to turf grasses are counted. And no matter how well you take care of the lawn, the wind, birds and insects will sooner or later bring weed seeds onto it.

Moss, lichens, algae and mushrooms on the lawn

Moss... Mossy, or mosses - These are ancient sod-forming plants, which lack the flowers and roots inherent in higher plants. They multiply by spores and therefore quickly conquer new spaces. Mosses attach to the soil by rhizoids.

Erect mosses, forming loose bumps prefer acidic soil.

Creeping (leafy) mosses with characteristic fine-feathery leaves, usually distributed in shady and humid places.

Cushion mosses - composed of many thin stems, inhabit nutrient-poor soil and thrive on too short-cut lawns.

Spread mosseslimited to areas of a favorable environment for them. Positive factors are high humidity, shade of the site, density, waterloggedness, soil acidity and lack of nutrients. Mosses prefer a more acidic soil (pH 5.5) than grasses (less than 5.5, but not more than 7).

A dense moss cover inhibits the growth of grass, since it makes it difficult for air to reach its roots, and also absorbs vital nutrients and moisture from the soil. The different growing conditions of grass and moss are the basic knowledge necessary to fight the conquerors. Moss develops not from the ingress of seeds, it is necessary to identify the reasons for its appearance. Moss does not tolerate sunlight and does not like loose, permeable, humus, nutrient-rich soil. Regular lawn mowing is beneficial for the health of the grass, however, excessively weakening power of short mowing should be avoided. In the spring and fall, every effort should be made to ensure that the growing conditions are favorable for the grass. The work requires perseverance and patience, but after three to four years you will completely get rid of the presence moss on the lawn.

Large gardens with old stands create favorable conditions for growth moss... In this case, you should abandon the lawn arrangement and allow the moss to grow with an unpretentious decorative carpet. Iron-containing herbicides can cause rust stains on the stones from which the paths are lined. Stains are difficult to remove and should be used with caution. Combinations (fertilizers and herbicides) should be used in the spring. Nitrogen fertilization in the fall is untimely. Before using the herbicide, you must carefully study the information on the drug label or instructions. Keep the drug out of the reach of children and pets.

Basic methods moss control:

- reduction of shady areas - cut down trees that cast heavy shadows. Sow shade-loving grasses in partially shaded areas.

- change in soil acidity - in acidic soil with a pH of less than 5.5 in spring and autumn, add algal limestone, which has a mild effect.

- removal of moss cover - in the spring, before starting work on the care of the lawn, remove the moss and the old man with a lawn rake.

- aeration of the soil - in the fall, evenly treat the entire surface of the lawn with a pitchfork or an aerator, then sand.

Aeration of compacted soil - Before starting aeration work, trim the lawn. Use a rake to remove any layer of moss and dead plants that is blocking air and grass roots. At the same time, it is not necessary to loosen the soil surface with a rake and comb out live shoots of valuable plants, otherwise many of them will die. Process lawn digging forks or aerator with hollow teeth to a depth of 30-50cm. swing the forks back and forth to increase the ventilation holes. Lawn aerator with hollow teeth works more efficiently as it forms air channels without disturbing the soil structure. The piercing should be repeated during periods of moisture accumulation.

Moss control methods:

- application of herbicides - herbicides contain substances that destroy moss. The dosage is indicated by the manufacturer. We spend it in early spring, before starting other lawn care works.

- measurement of soil acidity - on acidic soils (pH less than 5.5), the growth of moss is accelerated and the growth of grass slows down. In spring and autumn, we add algal limestone to the acidic soil.

- crevice - the moss cover reduces the penetration of air into the soil and inhibits the growth of grass. In the spring or autumn, after mowing, remove moss with a cutting-toothed lawn rake.

- fertilizer - moss prefers soil poor in nutrients. Since May, we apply a complex organic fertilizer at the rate of 40 g / m2

- elimination of shady areas - excessive shading of the lawn is the main reason for the appearance of moss. In early spring, we prune or remove trees that cast a dense shadow.

- clipping - clipping has a positive effect on the health of the grass and allows it to compete with the moss. Regular lawn mowing, cutting height 3-5 cm. In low grass, moss develops more intensively.

- surface aeration - on dense soil, where water stagnates, various kinds of mosses develop rapidly. In summer, we regularly process the lawn with a needle roller or walk along it in special sandals.

- deep aeration - on dense soil, where water stagnates, various kinds of mosses develop rapidly. In the fall or spring, treat the soil with an aerator and add sand.

- application of organic fertilization - has a positive effect on the rate of humus formation and grass growth. In autumn, after aerating the soil, spread compost over the surface of the lawn.

In spring, it is time to remove old moss by applying an appropriate herbicide and chipping the turf. In summer, the most optimal conditions for grass growth are created by regular cutting, feeding and aeration of the soil. In autumn, deep aeration and the introduction of organic matter accelerate the formation of humus, which is necessary for grass growth. The sun and good care are the main enemies of moss, and it is an insidious enemy of lawn grass.

Lichens... Lichen is an unusual natural formation that consists of representatives of different kingdoms of nature - fungus and algae, living as a single organism. Body lichenformed by intertwining mushroom threads, between which algae live. This is a mutually beneficial union: the fungus absorbs water and minerals dissolved in it, playing the role of roots, and green algae, which are protected by the fungus body, form organic matter, like plant leaves.
Lichen absorbs moisture with the entire surface of the body from rain, dew, fog, which allows it to settle on bare stones and rocks, on roofs, in deserts. In dry hot weather, lichens dry out so much that they crumble, but after rain they come to life again. The only thing that limits lichen is light. Without light, organic matter in the algae is not formed and the lichen dies.
Lichens grow slowly - only a few millimeters per year. But they live for a very long time. If, based on the size, we calculate the age of especially large specimens, then it will be more than 4500 years!
Lichens varied in appearance and color: in a spruce forest, shaggy beards of a bearded lichen hang from branches, in a dry pine forest a solid carpet of pinkish, gray and white bushy lichens crunches underfoot. Lichens practically grow together with stones.
Lichens sensitive to air pollution and serve as an indicator of its purity. Their sensitivity is associated with the inability to release absorbed toxic substances, which is why lichens die.

Seaweed... Often on the wet and poorly drained lawns we can observe such a phenomenon as seaweed... What is it, it's kind of blue-green algaewhich on the lawn look like black or green patches. Such seaweedinhabit on lawns with sparse grass and moist soil. Typically, they appear in areas of the lawn where moisture stagnates, as well as in compacted areas of the lawn and lawns with low mowing. For example: near natural reservoirs, if the lawn adjoins it, under the crowns of trees and shrubs, in their shade, because there is always shade under the trees and the soil is poorly ventilated. To eliminate this defect in the lawn, the affected area should be treated with Dicofen or Roundup. And best of all, in order to forget about the appearance of this ailment once and for all, the lawn must be regularly ventilated. Aerating your lawn will not only rid your lawn of algae, but also other problems (mosses, for example) associated with waterlogging and soil compaction.

Mushrooms... A small number of them usually does not cause any inconvenience, but if mushrooms on the lawn a lot, this suggests that there are too many organic residues in the soil of the lawn: rotting roots, wood, sawdust, etc. There are no effective methods to combat fungi, most often they are removed along with the soil, replacing it with fresh one, and a new one is sown grass.