Information About Cape Fuchsia
Cape Fuchsia Propagation: Tips On Growing Cape Fuchsia Plants
By Mary H. Dyer, Credentialed Garden Writer
Although the trumpet-shaped flowers are somewhat similar, cape fuchsia plants and hardy fuchsia are completely unrelated plants. Now that we've established the differences, let's learn the specifics of growing cape fuchsia in the following article.
CRAPE MYRTLE BASICS
Photo by: BA LaRue / Alamy Stock Photo.
Varieties for zones 6-10. Some may only be root hardy in zone 6, meaning the roots will survive the winter temperatures, but it's possible that the above-ground branches will die back completely to the ground. If this occurs, new spring growth will emerge from below ground.
Standard single and multi-trunk trees can grow to 20 to 30 feet tall and 10 to 15 feet wide, quickly growing up to 3 feet per year. There are also smaller dwarf and semi-dwarf varieties ranging from 6 to 18 feet tall and shrub varieties 2 to 5 feet tall, so make sure you are choosing the appropriate cultivar for your location and design.
Full sun, minimum 6 hours per day.
July to September, with some varieties blooming until first frost.
Varieties available in white, and multiple shades of red, purple, and pink.
Crape myrtles can be grown as single-trunk or multi-trunk trees. There are also varieties that grow as shrubs, miniatures and bonsais.
PERENNIALS THAT ATTRACT HUMMINGBIRDS
‘Cat’s Meow’. Photo by Proven Winners
Catmint (Nepeta spp.) has much to offer the gardener including long-lasting blooms, drought tolerance, and deer resistance, as well as aromatic foliage. Hummingbirds are also attracted to the tiny tubular lavender-blue flowers and enjoy the sheer abundance of blooms on each long flower spike.
12 inches to 3 feet tall, 18 to 24 inches wide
Plants to Try:
‘Cat’s Meow’ (pictured), ‘Little Titch’, ‘Walker’s Low’
Proven Accents® Rockin® Golden Delicious. Photo by Proven Winners.
With both hardy and tender varieties of sage (Salvia spp.) available in shades of purple, blue, pink, and white, there are plenty of options. There is even a fabulous golden leaved pineapple sage, Proven Accents® Rockin® ‘Golden Delicious’ (pictured), that blooms late in the season with tubular red flowers.
1-1/2 to 4 feet tall and 1-1/2 to 3 feet wid
Plants to Try:
‘Midnight Masquerade’ penstemon. Photo by Proven Winners.
This long-blooming perennial is perfect for many design styles, including cottage garden, prairie, xeriscape, and rock gardens, with many shapes, sizes, and colors to choose from. There are even some varieties with deep purple foliage. Spikes of tubular flowers in red, orange, purple, or blue are favored by hummingbirds.
1-1/2 to 4 feet tall and 1-1/2 to 3 feet wide
Plants to Try:
‘Midnight Masquerade’ (pictured), Firecracker, ‘Cha Cha Purple’
‘Pardon My Cerise’. Photo by Proven Winners.
Ignored by deer and rabbits, yet a favorite of hummingbirds and butterflies. The pom-pom flowers of bee balm (Monarda spp.) each offer an abundance red, pink, or purple blooms in summer.
10 to 48 inches tall and 10 to 28 inches wide
Plants to Try:
Rainbow Rhythm ‘Ruby Spider’. Photo by Proven Winners.
Whether you are a serious collector or simply love the showy trumpet-shaped blooms, the hummingbirds will thank you for including them. Each flower may only last for a single day, but they are borne in large numbers over many weeks.
1 to 6 feet tall and 1-1/2 to 2 feet wide
Plants to Try:
Mango Tango. Photo by Proven Winners.
ANISE HYSSOP, HUMMINGBIRD MINT
Aromatic, drought tolerant, deer and rabbit resistant, the hyssop (Agastache ssp.) genus deserves a place in your sunny garden. Compact varieties work well in containers and hanging baskets, while mid-sized and taller selections mingle well in naturalistic, prairie-style designs. Flower colors include shades of red, orange, yellow, blue, and pink.
8 to 54 inches tall and 8 to 30 inches to wide
Plants to Try:
Mango Tango (pictured), ‘Apache Sunset’, ‘Kudos Mandarin’
Opening Act Pink-a-Dot phlox. Photo by Proven Winners.
A classic cottage garden perennial, garden phlox (Phlox paniculata) is also a favorite of hummingbirds. The tall stems of fragrant flowers are popular with florists, while more compact selections ensure they can be enjoyed even as a container plant.
12 to 48 inches tall and 12 to 36 inches wide
Plants to Try:
Floristan Violet liatris. Photo by Walters Gardens Inc.
Bottle-brush flowers in violet or white are the hallmark of this popular deer-resistant perennial, their vertical form a welcome change from the more typical daisy shapes of the late summer border. The finely textured grassy foliage, ornamental in its own right, provides contrast to broader leaves.
24 to 30 inches tall and 6 to 12 inches wide.
Plants to Try:
Fan Scarlet cardinal flower. Photo by Proven Winners
Cardinal flower (Lobelia spp.) is a moisture-loving perennial that thrives in full sun (in northern climates) or partial shade and is both deer and rabbit resistant. Hummingbirds will fight over the tubular scarlet flowers which look especially dramatic on selections that have dark foliage. Varieties are available with flowers in shades of red, pink, and also white, all of which also attract butterflies.
2 to 4 feet tall and 1 to 2 feet wide
Plants to Try:
Raspberry Splash. Photo by Proven Winners
Plant several clumps of lungwort (Pulmonaria spp.) where you can see them from indoors, as they will be one of the earliest perennials to offer a source of nectar for your hummingbirds in spring. Sturdy stems hold small clusters of white, pink, or blue flowers high above the silver spotted leaves.
8 to 12 inches tall and 15 to 18 inches wide.
Plants to Try:
Raspberry Splash (pictured), ‘Mrs. Moon’, ‘Diana Clare’.
Cape Fuchsia. Photo by: Sundry Photography / Shutterstock.
While deer may not be interested, hummingbirds will flock to the trumpet-shaped flowers that come in a range of colors from hot pink, vivid orange, and salmon, to creamy yellow and pure white. These grow well in average soil, are semi-evergreen in milder climates, and reasonably drought tolerant once established.
2 to 3 feet tall and 1-1/2 to 2 feet wide
Plants to Try:
‘Moonraker’, ‘Sunshine’, ‘Magenta’
Plumbago Species, Blister Leaf, Blue Plumbago, Cape Leadwort
|Family:||Plumbaginaceae (plum-baj-i-NAY-see-ee) (Info)|
|Genus:||Plumbago (plum-BAY-go) (Info)|
|Species:||auriculata (aw-rik-yoo-LAY-tuh) (Info)|
Tropicals and Tender Perennials
Drought-tolerant suitable for xeriscaping
This plant is resistant to deer
USDA Zone 8a: to -12.2 °C (10 °F)
USDA Zone 8b: to -9.4 °C (15 °F)
USDA Zone 9a: to -6.6 °C (20 °F)
USDA Zone 9b: to -3.8 °C (25 °F)
USDA Zone 10a: to -1.1 °C (30 °F)
USDA Zone 10b: to 1.7 °C (35 °F)
USDA Zone 11: above 4.5 °C (40 °F)
Where to Grow:
Grow outdoors year-round in hardiness zone
Can be grown as an annual
All parts of plant are poisonous if ingested
Soil pH requirements:
From semi-hardwood cuttings
This plant is said to grow outdoors in the following regions:
Fallbrook, California(5 reports)
Huntington Beach, California
North Highlands, California
San Diego, California(2 reports)
Altamonte Springs, Florida
Fort Lauderdale, Florida(3 reports)
Green Cove Springs, Florida
Hollywood, Florida(2 reports)
Jacksonville, Florida(2 reports)
Kissimmee, Florida(2 reports)
Lakeland, Florida(2 reports)
New Port Richey, Florida(2 reports)
Palm Bay, Florida(2 reports)
Sebastian, Florida(2 reports)
Lafayette, Louisiana(2 reports)
Ocean Springs, Mississippi
Hillsborough, North Carolina
Sunset Beach, North Carolina
Wilmington, North Carolina
Ladys Island, South Carolina
Mount Pleasant, South Carolina
Summerville, South Carolina
Corpus Christi, Texas(2 reports)
Fort Worth, Texas(2 reports)
San Antonio, Texas(5 reports)
On Jan 5, 2021, jaya84 from Adelaide,
Have planted the plumbago variety 'Royal Cape' into a very large pot with a Bambino Bougainvillea. Both are doing very well against a colorbond metal fence in Adelaide's (Australia) extreme summer heat. I was led to believe that the Royal Cape sported deeper blue flowers than the species plumbago, but I've found this to be erroneous - it's exactly the same colour flower in the situation I have it in.
I have given a weak solution of extra potash as soon as planted, (early summer, from tender nursery stock), the plant has hardened considerably, grown well, and commenced flowering within 3 weeks.
On Sep 30, 2017, lightyellow from Ponte Vedra Beach, FL wrote:
Cape leadwort and it's native counterpart are host plants of the Cassius blue butterfly in Florida. Flowers are attractive to various insect pollinators (I have fond childhood memories of watching hummingbird moths feed on them in the evenings). I have not seen them reseed themselves much in my climate so I suppose they are less invasive here than in California.
The best use for this plant in my opinion is for areas that you're unsure are enough to count as "full sun" but also get harsh afternoon light so you don't want to plant a vulnerable shade plant, these thrive in such spots once established.
On Aug 18, 2016, coriaceous from ROSLINDALE, MA wrote:
Poisonous plant lists say this can cause dermatitis or other rashes on skin contact. Nothing about ingestion:
On Aug 18, 2016, NewbieNewbie from Lake San Marcos, CA wrote:
We planted a Plumbago next to a Paraguayan Nightshade. After about five years, we removed it because it was encroaching on the Paraguayan Nightshade. It is now two years later and the Plumbago roots have grown under our wrought iron fence and under the railroad ties next to the fence to the point that I have to remove the railroad ties in order to remove the Plumbago roots (hopefully remove).
If you have an open area, it may be fine, but if you have a fairly closed area, I would not recommend the plant.
On Oct 24, 2015, smwboxer from Fort Lauderdale, FL wrote:
Perfect plant for south Florida. Put it in the ground, ignore and it does fantastic.
On Sep 24, 2014, bb15 from Camarillo, CA wrote:
Plumbago is the most invasive plant I have dealt with. I have a steep hill in Southern California where the previous owner had planted honeysuckle and oleander. I added small pines, a bougainvillea, a red bottlebrush and purple lantana. And I planted two Plumbago plants on each side of the hill.
The Plumbago looked nice in the beginning. But then it created a dense thicket of thin branches and used its weight to crush or overwhelm any plant next to it. It wiped out the lantana as well as the Bottlebrush and began to kill two oleander and a small pine. Another Plumbabo is even pushing back some Honeysuckle.
Trimming Plumbago with its multiple sticky flowers is the worst gardening job I deal with. I trimmed back just one large Plumbago plant several feet and it took me a year. read more . Planting Plumbago was my worst gardening mistake.
On May 30, 2014, kingart3 from Palm Bay, FL (Zone 9b) wrote:
I planted several of these along a fence in full sun. Now three years later they are 4 feet high and blooming profusely. They don't require much water or attention and do attract butterflies. They have slipped under the fence and now the renters next door have Plumago growing along their fence as well . lol.
On Apr 21, 2013, Nejacobs from New Hempstead, NY wrote:
I've seen this lovely plant growing in northern conservatories and arboretums, but have not dared to try it because of its purported range. However, I have a white, south-facing wall on the side of my garage. I suspect that the reason the pear espalier I have there never blooms is that the sun makes the area too warm in the winter (I've tried fertilization, branch pruning, root pruning, and everything else people have suggested during the past 15 years, all to no avail). So I'm considering that maybe that area is actually NOT the 6b temperate zone of the rest of the yard. Perhaps I can get a plumbago to vine there.
On Mar 13, 2013, HatcherTiger from Lafayette, LA wrote:
Wanted to chime in from zone 9a and confirm that plumbago will tolerate shade and still thrive but obviously not as much as in full sun. I planted some withing a group of variegated ginger and on top of that this area only receives morning sun. An easy care-free plant to grow.
On Mar 6, 2013, coastalzonepush from Orlando, FL (Zone 9b) wrote:
one of the clearest truest blues in the garden, i love plumbago. i only have two and it really doesn't satisfy me. mine don't show aggressive growth and spread out very nicely - although the agapanthus might start complaining. the fast green growth and bright blue flowers make a great addition in the garden. plus it is tolerant of neglect, as mentioned before..
the stems can be brittle and handling them can make them break.
On Oct 20, 2012, Nutrarat from Brandon, FL wrote:
Planted Plumbago because I thought it would be a sure bet. However, it is now covered in trichordestra legitima (striped garden caterpillar moth). At first, I thought I might have thrips, but that doesn't seem to be the case. Haven't seen garden caterpillars listed as a problem, but the little buggers are taking over my plumbago. Anyone else had this problem?
On Feb 5, 2012, Sandwichkatexan from Copperas Cove, TX wrote:
The only reason I give this plant a neutral is because I live on the Northern cusp of its growing zone. That means for me, every 3 to 4 years when we get a bad winter I have to replace it. If it could survive longer as it does further south I would have given it a positive . This plant also loves neglect and mistreatment . The more stressed it gets the more blooms it produces . I have mowed several to the ground accidentally and they came back with a vengeance. The ones I plant in the thin topsoil above limestone seem to do the best . They look beautiful growing amongst the native yuccas and sotols .
On Jan 4, 2011, the_naturalist from Monrovia, CA wrote:
I love this plant! It is the perfect blue, and the butterflies it attracts are wonderful too. It seems to forget to bloom if in too much shade, and strong sun leads to paler flowers.
On Jan 3, 2011, SouthernGal from Naples, FL wrote:
"New Thrips Found on Plumbago" And this article by our County Extension Agent has been out for years. I do not recommend growing them in zone 9+.
On Mar 26, 2010, Sylvanmaid from New Ulm, TX wrote:
Are all varieties of Plumbago poisonous or not? This description claims Plumbago auriculta is toxic to animals but on the ASPCA website and it says "Plumbago Larpentiae - Scientific Name: Ceratostigma larpentiae- Family: Plumbaginaceae- Toxicity: Non-Toxic to Cats, Non-Toxic to Dogs, Non-Toxic to Horses - Toxic Principles: Non-toxic.
On Jan 28, 2010, annlof from Camarillo, CA wrote:
I noticed the undersides of the leaves of my plumbago were covered with white dust-like spots and was worried that they had some kind of mildew disease. Some research on the internet reassured me that this is a normal occurrence -- some kind of natural calcium exudate specific to plumbagos -- and nothing to be worried about. So, if you see white spots, don't panic!
These shrubs can survive on natural rainfall in coastal Southern California, but look much better if watered twice a month. Mine is grown as an espalier against a wall. I prune it constantly and it has a dense, regular shape, but as the plant flowers on new growth, I sacrifice a lot of flowers by pruning off the shoots with buds on them.
On Dec 9, 2009, hymenocallis from Auburn, AL (Zone 8a) wrote:
I live in zone 8a and had bought this plant several times and switched where I planted it (now in red clay amended) and It has returned and bloomed beautifully for 3 years now. All I can guess is that we have zone creep and when I moved here we were zone 7 and now zone 8. If you are south of Birmingham, AL try it in the ground and mulch it and Maybe you'll have my luck and get it to return every year. A beautiful blue that is exquisite.
On Sep 5, 2009, katusha from Wimberley, TX wrote:
I found a white plumbago growing wild in my yard. It has suffered neglect for a long time but I discovered it when it started to bloom. It is in full shade and is thriving but shows little growth so I intend to move it to a location with more sun. I also have several blue plumbago in large pots and they get a bit of sun everyday but not too much and they are very happy and bloom like crazy spring till fall. They have required watering about three times each week or the flowers will die and the leaves shrivel and droop. I love this plant and I plan to add more to my flower beds.
On Jul 16, 2009, jasljohns from San Antonio, TX (Zone 8b) wrote:
Though my plumbago still bloom profusely, the leaves and branches are drying up. I'm not certain whether the unusually hot weather this spring and early summer (2009--San Antonio, TX), or planting them in full sunlight (sunrise to sunset) is the problem. I suspect that they need to be shaded from the afternoon sun to some extent. They also seem to lack some of the drought tolerance with which they are credited. If the soil is not kept moderately moist, they stop blooming, and the leaves and tender young branches droop.
On Jun 20, 2009, lizofarc from San Antonio, TX wrote:
I use long shears to avoid sticky flowers. In San Antonio, the drought and heat tolerance, plus all summer bloom is a huge plus. Replaced some thirsty plants along the east side of my home with these and esperanza. The color combo looks great, and lots less (if any) watering.
On Oct 8, 2008, vossner from East Texas,
United States (Zone 8a) wrote:
A few years ago I started growing this plant in a pot and the poor thing got very little care, yet performed beautifully. The other day I decided to give it a haircut and the roots had grown out of the pot and into the ground. It was a bear to lift! I also found quite a few suckers nearby, they seemed easy to pick. In any case this is the kind of plant that needs lots of room or needs frequent haircuts so give some thought to location prior to planting.
I am getting ready to transplant inground hoping it doesn't turn into a man-eater. While potted it was in full sun, its new location inground will be part sun.
On Jun 6, 2008, anniedelcarpio from Lafayette, LA wrote:
I absolutely love this plant. For years I have had trouble finding plants to survive in an area of my garden that sometimes gets sun, sometimes doesn't. It is under trees and close to well established, decades old gardenias--therefore, it is also a dry area. These plants adapt to difficult conditions, while looking bright and cheerful. I liked plumbagos in my neighbors gardens and am very pleased with them now in mine.
On Jan 10, 2008, jdiaz from Chowchilla, CA wrote:
As already mentioned, in frost free areas, it can get to well above 15 feet tall and wide. I've seen them this big in the San Francisco bay area (San Jose, Oakland, Hayward. ) Here in the Central Valley, our ocassional light frosts keep it in check, which is a good thing since i rather have them sprawling all over the floor than becoming a huge barrier between my driveway and the neighbor's driveway. Here in zone 9b, plumbago out in the open get SOME leaf damage every year, but in a protected location (near a house, shed, wall. ) they put out new growth and bloom year round.
On Nov 14, 2007, Brittania from New Port Richey, FL wrote:
I have a vacation home in Florida which I visit 3 times a year so finding plants that can cope on their own for fairly long periods is a must. My plumbagos have managed in my absence extremely well and greet me most times of the year with their beautiful blue flowers. I have a potted one at home in the south of England but I have to move this to a frost free area in the Winter and prune it hard back. It grows back very well in the Spring and rewards me with beautiful flowers in late Summer. So I have found thus plant to be a great all rounder.
On Oct 25, 2007, nancyot from North Dartmouth, MA wrote:
This is great information. I like it. I have a plumbago that I just brought in. Had it in a planter on my deck, its gorgeous blue. I am in Ma. so it will not survive a winter outdoors. Just wondering if I should cut it back or just let it grow? In a south facing window , so it gets alot of sun.
On Oct 15, 2007, TraciEliz from Madisonville, LA wrote:
Mid-summer I purchased and planted several white plumbagos in my garden. I live in zone 8 where they bloom until the first frost which is not for some time. When the position of the sun changed in the fall, the plumbagos in the area of my garden that now get very little morning sun are not blooming very well and some not at all. The plumbagos on the side of the house with tons of afternoon sun are still blooming.
I am not sure if the blooming problem is too much water or not enough sun. I always thought plumbagos bloomed in partial shade but I have read recently that white plumbagos do not bloom as well in partial shade? After reading everything here, I am also wondering if the sunny planted plumbagos may be blooming better because the water evaporates quickly there. I can . read more try to dry out my shady spot plumbagos and see if they will bloom but that is hard to do because I have other newly planted plants in that area that want water. Any advice?
On Nov 10, 2006, htop from San Antonio, TX (Zone 8b) wrote:
Plumbago, Cape Leadwort (Plumbago auriculata) is the larval host for several types of butterflies including the Gray Hairstreak (Strymon melinus), Marine Blue (Leptotes marina), Cassius Blue (Leptotes cassius) and Plumbago or Zebra Blue (Leptotes plinius pseudocassius- found in Austarlia). It is a nectar source for many butterflies including the Pipevine Swallwtail ((Battus philenor), Eastern Tiger Swallowtail (Papilio glaucus), Giant Swallowtail (Papilio cresphontes), Eastern Black Swallowtail (Papilio polyxenes asterias), Cloudless Sulphur Butterfly ((Phoebis sennae) and Southern Dogface (Zerene cesonia). Want to attract butterflies to your garden? Then, plant a plumbago.
On Oct 6, 2006, MvalleyLily from Schenectady, NY (Zone 5a) wrote:
I can heartily endorse all positives. Have grown in pots here for about 4 years, bringing in in mid Fall, wintering both in a South window, w/ weekly complete watering, and under lights. This has seemed very easy to do, or I've been lucky. Perhaps my best association is having given one to my elderly parents, who love plants but weren't aware of Plumbago, who are now delighted by it each summer. I winter it for them. So, very satisfying.
On Mar 21, 2006, suvlvr from Santa Fe, TX wrote:
I absolutely LOVE plumbago. It does thrive on neglect, and it was growing on the north side of my house in zone 8, with freezes down into the 20's. It is necessary to keep it pruned back, as it can take over a flowerbed in no time at all in warm weather, but pruning is so easy to do. Recently moved to zone 9, and planted two whites and one blue in a bed, with hibiscus behing them, and seems that the hibiscus food I am using is just the thing for them, as they are blooming beautifully for the second year.
On Aug 22, 2005, outdoorlover from Enid, OK (Zone 7a) wrote:
I live in zone 6 (Enid, OK) and am growing this plant in a container. In the spring I'm going to propagate it and plant an offspring in the ground to see if it lasts through our winter.
On Jul 25, 2005, Roz from Gulfport, MS (Zone 8a) wrote:
This plant is excellent for planting in an area to prevent erosion, like on a bank. It is one of the first plants to return each year, and takes a lot of neglect. Blooms constantly.
On May 12, 2005, oconnor from Edmond, OK wrote:
I planted two beautiful plumbagos outside last late summer, but there is no evidence that they made it yet. Still two sticks in the ground! I'll give them a little more time after reading all the other remarks.
On Apr 30, 2005, dmac085 from Greensboro, NC (Zone 7a) wrote:
I live in a zone 7 area in NC. I found one of these on clearance at a pricey nursery and fell in love with the color.
I added it to a huge pot at my front door and it flowered profusely until frost bit it. Lowe's had a bunch of them this spring so I'll just treat it as an annual and enjoy it while it lasts.
On Apr 30, 2005, mysistersgarden from Santa Cruz, CA wrote:
I live in a " micro-tropical zone" in Santa Cruz, California. I have 5 plumgagos - all bought as 4" plants at a local nursery. Two of them are in the ground the rest in pots. They were all planted at the same time. Some seem to bloom during late Spring/Fall,and others are just getting established. They need to be fertilized and kept under control, however. One, I grow as a tree another as a small bush and some I just let go. I love the look of them mixed with hydrangeas of various colors. This is a great shrub, if you keep an eye on it.
On Mar 14, 2005, JaxFlaGardener from Jacksonville, FL (Zone 8b) wrote:
As others here have mentioned, I am happy to have a plant that flowers with a true, light cerulean blue. It dies back to the ground with severe winter freezes but returns in the Spring here in NE Fla. It survived mostly intact this winter with a few nights that were as low as 28 F. I have it at the back of my blue/white garden and want it to grow to the 4' heighth of the hedges. I may see it do that this year since it remains about 2' high despite the winter.
I was also able to find the white flowering variety of Plumbago last season and it, too, is doing well. It is flowering now (5/1/2005) prior to the flowering of the blue variety.
On Mar 13, 2005, artcons from Fort Lauderdale, FL (Zone 10b) wrote:
Plumbago is one of my favorites because of the color. It also grows well under my Coral plant (tree) with limited light. I planted it in the semi shade so the butterflies would have a place to eat out of the sun, which in summer is brutal here.
This past weekend (3/12/05) I saw a rare Miami Blue butterfly (not) it turned out to be a Cassia Blue laying eggs on my Plumbago. I now have a colony of the Cassia Blue's.
Both the Cassia Blues and the Miami Blue look very similar. Just a small orange dot distinguishes the species.
On Oct 16, 2004, careyjane from Rabat,
To Martha-Johnson -- you are probably overwatering! Plumbago in my experience seems to thrive on neglect. I use it a lot in low maintenance gardens where water is scarce. Stop watering for a while, only humidifying the soil when it is dry to the touch and see what happens. Of course, going into winter, you'll probably only see the results next spring.
On Aug 20, 2004, asmith56 from Lewisville, TX wrote:
So I should move this plant out of my backyard where my dog could possibly ingest part of it??
On Jul 19, 2004, Martha_Johnson from Lampasas, TX wrote:
I have planted my plumbago in a flowerbed that gets watered every morning on the west side of my house, which means morning shade and afternoon and evening sun. My blue darling is not doing well--alive but no growth or flowers. I've had it for two months and am hoping the plant is only resting.
On May 10, 2004, cindilou from Woodland, CA wrote:
Near Sacramento, this plant thrives from early spring (mid-70s) through the triple-digit weather all the way into early winter. Although it is a semi-evergreen, in the heart of our winter (days in the 50s, nights in the 30s and 40s), it gets really scruffy looking. At this point I trim it to the ground and wait for spring (I have a lot of these plants, so this is quite a job). As a climber, you still need space in order to enjoy the blooms. I planted 2 on a trellis next to my driveway, but because the plant blooms at the end of a really long shoot, I have to cut the blooms back in order to get my car out of the driveway without running into them. It's a beautiful, easy-to-care-for plant, if you have the space.
On Apr 14, 2004, aleyah from Salem, KY wrote:
I have a small greenhouse to over winter tropicals because here in Western Ky. it gets too cold for them to stay out. I have a coi pond and I love decorating my garden around it with tropicals. I keep plumbago in a couple of plantars and move it in and out each year. I just love them and they can withstand the heat and dryness that can come some times with outside summer potting. They are in full sun. Plumbago is a wonderful way to bring the tropical feeling to my home garden.
On Apr 6, 2004, Monocromatico from Rio de Janeiro,
Brazil (Zone 11) wrote:
These blue flowers are popular, maybe the most popular blue flowers over here. It likes fertile soil, where it blooms all the time, and is usually planted along with something else. I have seen beds with Plumbago and assorted coloured Lantanas, adorable.
On Mar 22, 2004, paglia2000 from Pascagoula, MS wrote:
I love any plant that goes on in spite of me when its just too hot to go out and water. Plumbago is one of my favorites. In my experience, watering encourages growth -- but not blooms. The hotter it gets and the less I water this plant -- the more it blooms. It's perfect in those corners of my garden where the hose just barely reaches.
On Mar 7, 2004, LGW728 from Wynantskill, NY (Zone 5a) wrote:
I have grown this plant in containers in my garden for years. It is an outstanding plant for container gardening, and produces beautiful sky-blue blooms until frost kills it. I have overwintered it in the garage several times, and it comes back in fine form in spring. It requires a thorough watering about once a week and responds well to Bloom Buster or other bloom inducing liquid fertilizers.
On Nov 26, 2003, jkom51 from Oakland, CA (Zone 9b) wrote:
In frost-free areas this plant will easily exceed 15' in height and width. Gardeners in these zones should keep this in mind when siting P. auriculata.
On Nov 19, 2003, mrsmitty from Jacksonville, FL (Zone 9a) wrote:
Most freeway offramp burms in North to Central Florida have plumbagos as the main landscape plant. The blue color it creates in mass planting is spectacular and the plant appears to thrive on neglect.
On Nov 14, 2003, TerriFlorida from Plant City, FL wrote:
I have used Plumbago for years and I enjoy it. If it is poisonous, I'm not sensitive to its secretions and I know no one who is. That's often an indicator of actual toxicity, though it is not definitive.
If you do not want to prune, don't grow this plant, or put it where it can roam free. As with any unruely grower, location, location, location. :-)
On Nov 13, 2003, chudley from Atlanta, GA wrote:
I've loved this true BLUE flower since I first saw it in Charlston, South Carolina! I once managed to overwinter it by mulching the crown of the plant with pine bark mulch during a mild winter here in Atlanta, Georgia (USDA Zone 7a), but it took a while to green up the following season.
I had such wonderful results this summer that I am potting up a few treasured specimens and housing them in an unheated outbuilding with south facing windows. I will also experiment with wraping whole plants with leaf mulch and a coat made of home insulation. I just don't want to have to start all over from scratch in 2004. How lucky those of you in zones 8-10 are to have this lovely plant as a perennial!
On Aug 6, 2003, alletta from Mill Valley, CA wrote:
Could not get it to thrive in my amended clay soil, but I bought it again in a lovely dark shade of blue, putting it in a planter with just planting mix. It overwintered well, and is growing fast. Looks great trained up a bamboo tepee. The only complaint is that the lovely shade of dark blue changed to the regularly found lighter blue this season.
On Aug 5, 2003, Bairie from Corpus Christi, TX (Zone 10a) wrote:
I love it! It's easy to grow and here in South Texas, you see it everywhere in all its shades of blue, and in white once in a while. It's used as a short hedge-like plant along the side of the house, as a cascading plant in window boxes, and any place you want a spot of color. It's true, the flowers do stick to you, but to a lot of people, it's worth it--after all, you don't have to trim it very often. Just give it plenty of room to cascade like a fountain. Then every 2-3 years, you'll need to cut it way back and let it grow up again.
On Jul 7, 2003, ranch45 from Interlachen, FL wrote:
Love this plant for the vibrant shade of blue. I got one from my mother-in-law and kept in the house ove the winter so that it wouldn't die from the frost. It looked a little weak, but I kept my fingers crossed.
I planted it outside in the spring where it would get morning sun and it is doing so well! I'm a little worried about this winter, but I am hoping to take a piece and pot it so I will have more next year.
On Jul 6, 2003, palmbob from Acton, CA (Zone 8b) wrote:
Though this is an attractive plant and needs virtually no water to thrive here in southern California, it is also a weed, and nearly impossible to exterminate. It can be cut to the ground and promptly returns to life. it can be dug out of the ground, and promptly returns to life if some roots left behind.
On top of that, pruning it is an experience, as it has hundreds of annoyingly sticky flowers that adhere to any and all body parts/clothing. 10 minutes of pruning = 30 minutes of pulling plant parts off oneself.
I'd like to use this plant in a rock garden in Zone 9.
On Aug 31, 2002, tiG from Newnan, GA (Zone 8a) wrote:
Very easy to grow plant. Takes little or no maintenance. Bloomed all summer for me, with a little deadheading it just kept going. Love the bright spot of blue.
On May 2, 2002, Floridian from Lutz, FL (Zone 9b) wrote:
Here in the tropical south Plumbago blooms from very early spring through late fall. It bears spikes of flowers in all shades of blue as well as a lovely, pure white cultivar. The fact that it attracts butterflies is just one more positive for this plant. Once established this plant is drought tolerant and needs very little care. Buy plants in bloom to get the shade of blue you desire. Plumbago can be propagated from suckers, root cuttings or semi-hardwood cuttings in spring.
On May 7, 2001, OlgaN from Miami, FL (Zone 10b) wrote:
Plumbago is an irregular shrub that can be grown as a hedge or trained up a trellis. Flowers are small and grow in clusters, and range from a very light blue to darker shades. Withstands neglect after it is established.