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Autumn currant transplant: why is it needed and how it is done

 Autumn currant transplant: why is it needed and how it is done


Currant is one of the most common berry bushes in summer cottages. It is tasty and healthy; its healing properties have been known for a long time. Today there is not a single garden plot in Russia where at least one type of currant is not grown: black, red or white. The culture is unpretentious and does not require much attention. But sometimes she needs a change of location. Knowing when to transplant currants in the fall, you can carry out this procedure with a minimum of losses for the plant.

When you need to transplant currants in the fall to a new place

Like any plant, currants do not like to be disturbed; transplanting is always stress for the bush. But sometimes, to increase fruiting, it is necessary to move it to a new place. And there are several reasons for this:

  • Currant plantings grow densely and interfere with each other. If they are not thinned, the berry will begin to shrink, and the harvest will become scarce over time due to the fact that the bushes will not have enough food.
  • The land under the bush is severely depleted and needs "rest".
  • It is necessary to rejuvenate the old bush.
  • You want to propagate the variety you like.
  • If new buildings appear on the site, shading the berry, then the photophilous currant will also have to look for a new place.
  • Another reason is disease or pest infestation. If you cannot cure a bush or remove parasites, it is better to transplant it.

With a thickened planting, the bushes do not have enough food, it is better to plant them

Autumn transplant time

Despite the fact that the plant is depleted at the end of the season, most gardeners consider the fall season to be the most suitable time for replanting. At this time, currant sap flow stops, it goes into a dormant period. In this state, according to experts, the bushes take root better.

A weighty argument in favor of an autumn transplant is that in the next season the young bush will bear fruit.

So that the bush does not "confuse" the seasons and does not begin to actively vegetate after transplanting, the currants need to be moved after the cool weather is established, without sudden warming. Suitable terms for transplanting by climatic zones (taking into account temperatures by month):

  • Urals and Siberia - from the last days of August to mid-September;
  • Northwest Russia - from the second decade of September to the end of October;
  • middle zone of Russia, Moscow region - all October;
  • southern regions - from mid-October to late November.

The lunar calendar recommends replanting the berry during the growing moon.

Suitable location and preparation for transplant

Determining a new location for the currant is critical. It depends on how your berry will bear fruit in the future. Therefore, take into account the requirements that the plant imposes on illumination, soil composition, moisture content and relief:

  • The currant loves the sun, it will be best for it in the southern part of the infield in an open sunny space. If a slight shading is permissible for black currant, then its red and white congeners do not react well to the shade. A large amount of sunlight supports the plant's immunity, it is less susceptible to infection with fungal diseases.
  • A low-lying place is not suitable for currants, it does not tolerate stagnant moisture. The elevation is also not the best option, there are possible drafts, which the berry can not stand. The best option is a flat, non-swampy place.
  • Bushes should be at least 4–5 meters away from garden trees and other shrubs, so you will protect currants sensitive to infections from diseases.
  • The soil should be loose and fertile, with low acidity.

If you are replanting several bushes or placing a bush next to other berry bushes, keep a distance between them so that you do not have to plant thickened plantings again later. Between the bushes of black currant, a distance of one meter is usually made, between red or white - up to one and a half meters.

An ideal place for a currant bush - flat, sunny and calm

And when choosing a place, it is important to consider which cultures grew on it before. It's good if it was potatoes, beans, green manure cereals. Avoid places where gooseberries or other currant bush grew before, and old bushes were uprooted. Neighborhood with other garden "inhabitants" also matters. Good neighbors for currants are onions, garlic, strawberries, honeysuckle, and herbs. It is better to plant black currants away from red and white ones.

How to prepare a place

Prepare the planting pit for currants correctly about 10-14 days before transplanting. The selected area is cleared and dug up to remove all weeds and roots. In a pit 60x60x40 cm in size (when transplanting with a lump, the size is slightly increased):

  • the upper fertile layer of the earth;
  • on top - a prepared substrate of humus and compost (8 kg each), 300 g of wood ash or 30 g of potassium sulfate and 40 g of superphosphate.

If the place is wet, drainage from rubble or broken bricks is first laid on the bottom of the pit. The contents of the pit should not be trampled down; loose soil prefers currants.

How to prepare a bush

The preparation of a young bush also begins in advance. He has to go through a haircut - 2-3 weeks before moving, all branches are cut to a height of 50 cm. This is done for better survival - the roots will be able to feed the shortened branches even in changed conditions. Old bushes are pruned after transplanting.

Before the transplant itself, the bush is examined for diseases. Then they pass in a circle with a pitchfork to pry off an earthen lump. They dig in the bush with a sharp shovel to cut the roots. Then they carefully remove it together with an earthen lump. If you see areas of rotten roots, then the earthen lump is destroyed, diseased roots are removed, and the bush is sent for treatment. The root system is immersed in a bucket with a 1% solution of potassium permanganate for 15–20 minutes.

If a lump of earth with roots is well dug, the shrub will be easily removed

Step by step instructions

If you are planting a bush with an earthen ball, the operation is as follows:

  1. Pour 1–2 liters of water into the pit.
  2. Place the bush in the hole and cover it with earth, deepening it in the same way as it was in the old place.
  3. Water the transplanted currants abundantly (at least a bucket of water).

Ordinary bushes are planted at an angle of 45 ° to the ground, so the next season the currants will give a new shoot and quickly spread out in breadth, rooting

For a bush with an open root system, a mound is formed in the pit from the covered substrate. Planting stages:

  1. A bush is placed on the top of the hillock so that the previous place of deepening is slightly lower. This will allow new roots to branch out and grow.
  2. Gently spread the roots along the sides of the mound and cover them with earth. The bush needs to be shaken periodically, allowing the earth to fill in the voids between the roots.
  3. After filling the hole in half, lightly tamp the earth, then fill the hole to the brim and trample the soil.
  4. Form a circle with small earthen bumps near the bush.
  5. Pour 2 buckets of water under the bush and cover the soil with peat or compost.

Old currants tolerate transplanting worse, therefore it is necessary to transport it to a new place carefully. If you are replanting an ordinary black currant bush, it must be placed in a hole at an angle of 45 °, standard forms, as well as red and white currants, are planted directly.

How to care for currants after transplanting

An old bush after transplanting needs more attention than a young one. In a new place, it must be cut off immediately. Dried and growing branches in the center of the bush are removed. You should also remove thick or curved thin twigs at the ends. Do not leave those that have a dark brown bark. Pruning of black currants is made obliquely at 7 centimeters above the bud, red and white are cut even shorter - up to 5 centimeters. Such a short pruning will rejuvenate the bush, next year it will give young shoots, and after two years you will again harvest a bountiful harvest from it.

After pruning, the old bush must be protected from diseases with the help of cut putty. Many gardeners use RanNet paste instead of garden varnish. It will disinfect and heal wounds. For the prevention of diseases, the transplanted bush is treated with a solution of Bordeaux liquid (1%) or with HOM, Kuproskat preparations.

After transplanting, the currants will need a lot of moisture. During the first two weeks, it is watered often and abundantly, so that the water literally stands under the bush, especially if the fall is dry. If it rains, the amount of water can be reduced. After watering, the soil must be loosened. Before the snow falls, the ground around the currants is mulched with a 20-centimeter layer, the branches are pulled into a bunch and covered with spruce branches.

Video: how to transplant currants without risk

The process of transplanting currants is not much different from planting a young seedling. It is complicated only by the fact that you have to remove the already mature bush from the old place and do it with the utmost care. However, your labors will pay off in the next seasons with bountiful harvests.


Transplanting currants to a new place: choosing a season, planting places and useful tips

Currant transplantation is carried out, combining with its reproduction. Thus, the berry is rejuvenated to increase yields. However, transplanting currants in the fall to a new place may be required spontaneously, for example, when redeveloping a site. In such cases, there is no way to wait for the onset of the optimal time and the procedure must be carried out as accurately as possible, strictly following the requirements for the place for the berry.


The content of the article:

The most important thing when caring for black currants is transplanting in early spring or late autumn, when the bush no longer bears fruit, has dropped its foliage and is ready for wintering. Transplanting black currants in the fall should be carried out at a time when the soil allows it.

Black currants are very fond of warmth and do not feel well in shaded areas of the garden. Therefore, when choosing a place for this type of berry, you need to give preference to sunny options. This guarantees a decent harvest by 70%!

The peculiarity of the black variety from the red one is that the root system of the former is not so deep and this is rather an advantage. Thanks to this, you can easily saturate the suction roots with useful trace elements, minerals and other organic components.

Transplanting black currant involves abundant watering. It may seem that there is a whole puddle under the bushes, but for this type of berry, this is absolutely normal.


Transplant timing

The region of growth of the culture has a great influence on determining the time of transplanting white, red or black currants. Much also depends on the weather conditions prevailing in the region during this season.

Black currants should be replanted in September - October. Before the onset of frost, it will have enough time for rooting.

Other types of currants take less root than the black variety, so they require increased attention. The optimal month for their autumn transplant is September, and better its first half. Plants will get a little more time to take root and take root.

Depending on the region

The term for transplanting currants in the fall may shift in one direction or another, depending on the region of currant cultivation.

In the middle lane, currants are usually transplanted from September 16 to October 15, taking into account the long-term weather forecast. At the end of this period, the weather is moderately warm for almost a month, the bushes grow lateral roots necessary for rapid rooting.

  1. In the south of the country, currant transplants are carried out during October and November.
  2. In the Urals and Siberia, the entire September is set aside for this operation.
  3. In the northern territories of the country, it is better to transfer it to next spring.
  4. In the Moscow region, they adhere to the same transfer times as in the Central lane.

Lunar calendar

Since time immemorial, our ancestors took into account the influence of the moon on all living organisms on the planet. A lunar sowing calendar was compiled, which takes into account two points:

  • moon phase
  • the position of the Earth's satellite in the signs of the zodiac.

It is these factors that determine what types of work can be done in the garden or on vegetable beds on a particular day of the calendar.

According to the lunar calendar 2018, the following dates are considered auspicious days:

  • March - 24-25
  • April - 7-8, 20-22
  • May - 4-6, 18-19
  • June - 1-2, 10-11, 15.

Having transplanted a currant bush on one of these dates, you can be sure that the work is done on time.

It may happen that, due to his employment, the gardener will not have time to transplant the culture on one of the favorable days of the calendar. Then he will have to pick another day to complete such work.

Just in case, we give unfavorable days of the Lunar calendar, when it is better to refuse from a currant transplant:

  • April - 9-11, 14-16, 29-30
  • May - 7-8, 12-13, 20-21
  • September - 7, 20-22, 25-26
  • October - 4-5, 17-19, 22-24, 31.


How to choose and prepare a place, and the raspberry bush itself for transplanting

In order for the transplanted raspberry bush to grow and develop normally, it is necessary to choose the right place for it on the site and the most suitable soil.

Place on the site

When choosing a place for transplanting a raspberry bush, it is worth choosing a site that is lit for a sufficient amount of time (but not too open, especially since it cannot be overly shady) and protected from drafts and strong winds.

Often, raspberries are allocated on the site near the fence.

After which you can and cannot plant: crop rotation rules

It is believed that it is best to transplant raspberries to a place where nothing has grown before, which, of course, is practically impossible in real conditions. And it is categorically impossible to plant in a place where raspberries also grew, from which you tried to get rid of.

The fact is that there is no way to separate the new raspberries from the old ones, because raspberries are able to germinate even from very small roots left in the soil after digging. Therefore, the raspberries need to be transplanted only to a new place.

In general, the best predecessors for planting raspberries are:

  • siderates (mustard, rye, oats, alfalfa)
  • legumes (peas, beans)
  • cucumbers and zucchini
  • onion and garlic.

It is not recommended to transplant raspberries to the place where the following crops grew:

  • strawberry (garden strawberry)
  • potatoes.

Also, as a rule, raspberries are not planted next to currants and gooseberries.

Suitable soil

Raspberries are very demanding on the fertility of the soil, only then the bushes are able to give a bountiful harvest of tasty berries.

Ideally, the optimal soil for growing raspberries is loamy and sandy loam.

If you have acidic soil on your site, then it must be deoxidized using, for example, dolomite flour or a similar deoxidizer (for example, wood ash also perfectly deoxidizes the soil).

If you prepare the soil for transplanting raspberries in advance (it is better to cook in about 3-4 months), then fill the soil well with excellent compost or rotted manure (humus) at the rate of 6-8 kg per 1 square meter, it will also be reasonable to make superphosphate (30-40 grams per 1 square meter) and potassium sulfate (20-30 grams per 1 square meter), or wood ash (200 grams per 1 square meter). If the transplant is carried out in the spring, then it is good that the soil has and nitrogen fertilizer, eg, urea or ammonium nitrate... If transplanting occurs in the fall, then use more potash-phosphorus fertilizers.

Or you can apply these fertilizers immediately before transplanting by sprinkling them on the bottom of the planting hole, but in a slightly smaller amount (about 2 times). In this case, the mixed fertilizers from above must also be sprinkled with a small layer (5 cm) of ordinary earth.

Important! If you are planting a seedling with an open root system (for example, if an earthen ball has crumbled during transfer or transportation), then it is recommended not to apply mineral fertilizers and fresh manure, which can harm (burn) the already recently damaged roots.

Planting holes and trenches: dimensions

Raspberry bushes can be transplanted either into individual planting holes (bush method) or into a common trench (tape method).

If you plan to plant the bushes in the holes, then it is optimal to dig them out in the following size - 30 cm (diameter) by 30 cm (depth), the distance between the holes is 50-70 cm, between the rows - 1.5-2 meters.

If in one trench, then again the depth is 30 cm, the width is 30-40 cm, the distance between the seedlings is the same (50-70 cm), the length is according to your need, as a rule, within 1.5-2 meters ( for 3-4 seedlings).

By the way! But the bottom of the planting pit or trench can be covered with trim boards, wood shavings, sawdust, branches that are already beginning to re-heat (and on top of compost and other fertilizers). After all, forest raspberries naturally grow on rotting stumps, among the windbreak.

Pruning before transplanting

It is worth considering that the root system of the root shoot and the main bush is one, respectively, they have one source of food, which means that during the digging the roots will definitely be damaged. The plant, on the other hand, should spend all its energy on the development of the root system, and not on building up green mass (shoots), and even more so fruiting. Otherwise, it will begin to lag behind in development, and this will negatively affect its winter hardiness.

Thus, before digging up and replanting the raspberry bush, it must be cut off quite strongly, that is, to reduce the above-ground mass (shorten the shoots), leaving no more than 40-60 centimeters.

Note! You need to prune both in the autumn and in the spring transplant of raspberries.

Also, on young seedlings (root shoots or offspring), it is recommended to tear off all the leaves in the fall.

Video: seating (transplanting) raspberries to a new place


Step by step instructions

If you are planting a bush with an earthen ball, the operation is as follows:

  1. Pour 1–2 liters of water into the pit.
  2. Place the bush in the hole and cover it with earth, deepening it in the same way as it was in the old place.
  3. Water the transplanted currants abundantly (at least a bucket of water).

Ordinary bushes are planted at an angle of 45 ° to the ground, so the next season the currants will give a new shoot and quickly spread out in breadth, rooting

For a bush with an open root system, a mound is formed in the pit from the covered substrate. Planting stages:

  1. A bush is placed on the top of the hillock so that the previous place of deepening is slightly lower. This will allow new roots to branch out and grow.
  2. Gently spread the roots along the sides of the mound and cover them with earth. The bush needs to be shaken periodically, allowing the earth to fill in the voids between the roots.
  3. After filling the hole in half, lightly tamp the earth, then fill the hole to the brim and trample the soil.
  4. Form a circle with small earthen bumps near the bush.
  5. Pour 2 buckets of water under the bush and cover the soil with peat or compost.

Old currants tolerate transplanting worse, therefore it is necessary to transport it to a new place carefully. If you are replanting an ordinary black currant bush, it must be placed in a hole at an angle of 45 °, standard forms, as well as red and white currants, are planted directly.


How to transplant an adult currant bush

First you need to decide on the landing site. Although currant is considered a rather unpretentious plant, it still has some requirements for the place of residence:

currants prefer well-lit sunny places

does not like lowlands and areas with high humidity

it is not advisable to plant bushes in places from the windward side

this shrub prefers to grow freely, so it does not need to be planted along fences, fences, buildings and next to large trees (you need to retreat at least one meter).

After the planting site is determined, it is necessary to dig up the site and select weeds, stones, debris and old roots from the ground. It is better to do this in advance, about 10–20 days in advance.

The main stages of the transplant include the following operations:

Planting holes are dug at a distance of about a meter from each other. For large bushes, leave a larger distance.

The pits should be spaced apart

The hole diameter is about 0.5-0.6 m, the depth is 0.3-0.4 m. But it is better to be guided by the size of the root system of the transplanted plants.

The depth of the hole should correspond to the size of the root system of the bush

At the bottom of the pit, a drainage layer with a thickness of at least 7–8 cm is laid out, consisting of a mixture of crushed stone with sand.

Crushed stone with sand will perfectly cope with the role of drainage

We fertilize the extracted garden soil with humus, wood ash and complex fertilizers (phosphate, potash). Top dressing is applied according to the instructions on the package based on the volume of soil.

When fertilizing the hole, follow the instructions on the package.

The hole is filled with soil mixture by about two-thirds.

We fill the hole with earth two-thirds

Old branches are completely cut from the bush. New shoots are cut in half.

Before planting, old branches must be carefully trimmed.

The plant is carefully dug in and removed together with a lump from the ground. Do not pull on the branches, as you can damage them.

The bush must be removed very carefully, without pulling it by the branches.

The dug out bush and root system must be inspected for pests and their larvae. If there are pests, then it is necessary to treat the plant with special insecticidal solutions.

If the roots are affected by pests, then the bush must be treated with an insecticide.

Water is poured into the hole to form liquid mud.

We plant the bush in a liquid substance

The bush is immersed in the slurry and sprinkled with the remnants of the earth, which must be carefully compacted in order to prevent the formation of voids. The root collar deepens by 7–8 cm.

The soil around the roots of the bush must be carefully compacted so that there are no voids in the soil.

A layer of mulch is applied from foliage, humus, peat, needles, etc. to prevent the topsoil from drying out and for fertilization.

A layer of mulch will prevent the soil from drying out

The plant must be watered abundantly for 3-4 days.

The first days it is necessary to water the transplanted bush abundantly.

It is forbidden to use fresh manure when planting currants, as this may cause a chemical burn to the roots of the plant.

There is no need to feed the plant additionally. All the nutrients necessary for the first time have already been introduced into the planting pit. During the growing season, further care will include regular watering as needed.

Video: technology for transplanting shrubs, including currants

If you follow a number of simple rules, then the currant will thank you with a delicious and abundant harvest. Its berries have a valuable set of vitamins and minerals that are very useful for the human body.