An effective way to grow early cucumbers

An effective way to grow early cucumbers

Today we will focus on an effective method for obtaining early cucumbers. In this case, the harvest can be very good, about 25 pieces from one bush. This effective way of growing early cucumbers is quite simple, but involves some successive steps to increase the root cucumber system, which is why such a high result is due. Fresh cucumbers can be obtained much earlier than usual.

Step 1. Primary increase in the root system of the cucumber by pouring soil into the boxes.

Sand should be poured on the bottom of the seedling box - a drainage layer, add prepared soil (in its composition, soil from the garden and humus are mixed in equal parts). Cucumber seeds are sown dry.

Each box should be half filled with a mixture of soils, not more than 4 cm.The depth of planting of cucumber seeds should not exceed 2 cm, and the distance between seeds can be 3 or 4 cm.

After that, the boxes are covered with glass and put in a warm place for three to four days. After the first shoots appear, the glass is removed, and the boxes are placed on a window facing south.

When the seedlings of cucumbers begin to grow, the soil is constantly poured until the box is filled with soil to the very edge.

It is worth taking a closer look and you can see small pimples on the cucumber stems - emerging roots. They will become the basis for the growth of the cucumber root system, and, consequently, the power of the bush.

Step 2. We transplant the cucumber seedlings into pots and continue to build up the root system.

This stage should be started when the first two leaves appear in the plants. In order to properly transplant cucumber seedlings, the plant must be carefully cut out together with an earthen clod and put into a new pot.

As last time, the soil pots should be no more than half full. And again, as you grow up, you should sprinkle the finished soil until the new pot is completely filled.

Thus, for the second time, it was possible to increase the root system of the plant.

Step 3. We transplant the seedlings of cucumbers into the ground. We are building up the root system for the third time.

To plant cucumber seedlings in open ground, you need to dig a trench one meter wide (of arbitrary length), deep on the bayonet of a shovel.

A humus layer of about 7 cm is poured onto the bottom of the finished trench. However, it is necessary to take into account such an important point - the trench should be prepared no later than a week before planting seedlings, because the soil layer in the trench should warm up well.

When transplanting seedlings, the young plant is carefully removed from the pot, trying not to disturb the earthen lump. It's good if milk or ordinary plastic cups were used instead of pots, because you can just cut them neatly. If a hard plastic pot was used, then first you need to gently tap it on the sides so that the earthen ball begins to move away from the walls.

The resulting earthen lump should be well considered, the result of the invested work - if everything was done correctly, then the roots will literally penetrate the ground. If this is imperceptible, then somewhere in the cultivation technology mistakes were made. The main objective of this method is a significantly enlarged root system.

The extracted seedlings are lowered onto a layer of humus at the bottom of the trench and sprinkled with earth, to which superphosphate is added (about 40 g per plant). Seedlings of cucumbers are planted at the rate of about 20 plants per four square meters of trench.

On the sides of the plants, the trench is covered with last year's weeds or straw, the layer thickness is about 10 cm. After transplanting, the trench is sprinkled and spilled with water. The straw layer will provide heat and nutrition to the plants, and carbon dioxide will be released during decomposition.

Subsequent care for early cucumbers is done in the usual way.

The advantage of this method will be a great early harvest - much earlier than with conventional cucumber cultivation. The growing season will also be longer - about 160, instead of the usual 95. At the same time, labor costs for watering will be significantly reduced - the trench will retain moisture for a long time.

Site about a garden, a summer residence and houseplants.

I want to tell you how I grew early cucumbers.

I planted them at home on March 1, the first five were removed already on April 15 - on the birthday of my son, although in previous years it was possible to grow them only by May 23 - by my birthday. True, she planted them on March 17, varieties Emelya and Blizzard. This time I planted the same Blizzard and the Director variety - two seeds each. Director It bore fruit all summer, but not too abundantly, but the Blizzard made me very happy! The last cucumber was removed on September 25, and this despite the fact that he was planted at home on the window on March 1.

I did it like this: on February 27, I soaked the seeds in separated water in toilet paper. When the sprouts hatched (March 1), I planted one seed at a time in a glass of sour cream (0.5 l). My land is ordinary, the cheapest purchased, mixed with horse humus (horse manure + sawdust). I sow seeds to a depth of 1.5-2 cm, wetting the soil. Then I put on the bag, put it on a stand on the battery and wait for the shoots, after which I remove the bag and put the cups on the window for further seedling growth.

We are warm (private house with gas heating). When I see that there is not enough space for the sprouts in the glass, I transplant them into bags (1.5-2 liters) from under the juice. I prepare the soil the same as the first time. I transplant everything with a lump, then add more earth and squeeze. I pour it with settled water. I feed only with special fertilizer for seedlings.

And in April, it even happens that the snow is still in the yard, and we are already shooting the first cucumbers. Others are still blooming, you can see it yourself in the photo.

We are waiting for the warmth to come and plant the cucumbers in the greenhouse. We have it made of polycarbonate, homemade, high, especially for cucumbers. There they grow with tomatoes. Last year, we planted it on April 22, as it was warm. They did not cover them with anything else, they planted them in barrels with soil from the garden, adding pure horse manure. We do not mulch the soil.

Pour with warm, settled water, feed with ash, a light pink solution of potassium permanganate, urea, and purchased fertilizer. Cut off the yellowed leaves, tie up the cucumbers.

We also plant cucumbers in a glass greenhouse. These are varieties Adam, Herman and Asterix... I also plant them at home in a nursery on May 12, and on the 27th I already transplant them into a greenhouse right with a lump of earth. I started a granary book, where I write everything down in detail.

And I salt cucumbers like this. I put dill, currant leaves, garlic in a 3-liter jar and put the cucumbers vertically, noses down. I fill it with cold saline: 1 faceted glass of salt for 1.5 liters of water. I put it on for 3-5 days, covered with gauze. When foam appears, I drain the brine and boil it, removing the foam.

I wash the cucumbers with cold water right in the jar, without removing, then pour in hot brine. On top of the cucumbers, you need to put 2-3 horseradish leaves and a cloth with dry mustard (1 tbsp. L.), Tying it in a knot. I close it with a nylon lid and put it underground. Thanks to mustard, cucumbers do not grow moldy.

Favorite recipe for harvesting tomatoes.

Put dill and garlic in a liter jar. Cut the tomatoes in half lengthways and lay them in layers, cut up. Fall asleep 2 tbsp. l. sugar, 1 tbsp. l. salt and pour cold, settled water. Sterilize 15 min. At the end of sterilization, pour in 1 tsp. table vinegar (9%). Roll up with metal lids.

The F1 Director perfectly quenches thirst in the summer heat - for this he was bred by Dutch breeders. It is more resistant to disease than other varieties and has higher yields. And most importantly, the Director is absolutely devoid of bitterness.

© Author: Elena Anatolyevna BUROVA, Rybinsk

High-yielding cucumber varieties

Verified varieties are chosen for planting. They yield crops even under unfavorable conditions and require very little maintenance.

Delicacy variety

It belongs to the early ripening ones. Very resistant to cold snaps. However, only when they do not take very long time. At the end of May, a landing is made in the ground. The fruits, as they ripen, are harvested for quite a long time. Cucumbers resemble small cylinders in shape. The surface is covered with tubercles. The fruits are dark green in color. Excellent variety for preservation.

Son of the regiment

The first fruits of these small gherkins appear after planting for a maximum of 45 days. By the type of flowering, they are female. The cucumbers themselves are oval, covered with rather large tubercles. They are rarely located on the surface. Fruits grow up to 8 cm. They cannot outgrow, which makes them especially valuable. They are not very susceptible to diseases.

High-yielding cucumber varieties Madame variety

Kornishonov is another representative. This is a mid-season variety. Feminine type of flowering. 48 days - the time of fruit ripening. Can be pollinated by bees. Cylindrical fruits up to 12 cm long. The tubercles are small. The color is bright green. White stripes are a characteristic feature of this hybrid cucumber. They are subtle. The fruits are not prone to overgrowth.

High-yielding cucumber cultivars alligator cultivar

Good hybrid for soil. It belongs to a self-pollinated species. It also bears fruit well in the greenhouse. Cucumbers are 40 cm long, they are dark green, with small. Dark green fruits reach a length of 40 cm, small tubercles on their surface. Cucumbers taste sweet. A hybrid has a high resistance to various diseases.

High-yielding cucumber varieties Chinese disease-resistant

Strong, very resistant plant with small leaves. The name suggests that this variety is not very susceptible to various kinds of diseases. It tolerates temperature changes perfectly. Fruit color is green. Cucumbers with a completely flat surface without tubercles, their length is 35 cm.


An early hybrid. This hybrid is well cultivated at home, on a balcony or veranda. And for open ground, April is an excellent choice. The first cucumbers appear on the 55th day. Cucumbers grow large, their weight is 250 grams, length is 25 cm. Large fruits weighing up to 250 grams and a length of 25 cm. The length of the fruits is not as great as in the previous varieties, but the weight is impressive. These sweetish cucumbers are well suited to salads, and are also used to prepare various dishes. From the name itself, it is clear that seeds can be planted in April. The variety is really very resistant to changes in the weather, not pretentious with respect to soils.


A variety similar to April. What unites them is that landing quite early is possible. Erofei is pollinated by bees, so he has no other options for planting, except for soil. Fruits are very small, elongated, up to 7 cm, medium tuberosity. The taste is sweetish. These cucumbers are good in salads and for canning. Powdery mildew is not terrible for an already grown plant; Erofei is practically not susceptible to it.


Super early ripening hybrid. It is very little susceptible to changes in air temperature. For this reason, this is an excellent option for soil. Dark green gherkins, 10 cm long, covered with small tubercles. At the end of May, the seeds are planted in the beds. Care is most needed. A large harvest is always collected from the plot.

High-yielding cucumber varieties Connie's variety

The variety is mid-season. The end of May is the best time to put seeds in the ground. Flowers are pollinated by bees. At the end of 45 days, the first cucumbers ripen and they can be removed from the branches. The first fruits appear after 45 days, so this variety can be attributed to early ripening. In shape, the fruits are similar to cylinders, their length is 8 cm. Do not be afraid that they will outgrow their size - this is excluded. Salads, canning are the main areas of application for Corinna cucumbers.


For lovers of a vegetable such as a cucumber, their size is often very important. The larger the cucumber, the more difficult it is to preserve it, and its taste after salting will be poor. Therefore, small-sized vegetables are the most acceptable in any quality. This is a mid-season variety, when ripe, the length of the fruit is 12 cm. It is also necessary to take into account the elementary fact that the plants of this variety are pollinated only by bees, therefore the most convenient way of planting it is to place the seeds in the ground.

High-yielding varieties of Dutch cucumbers

Basically, the listed varieties belong to domestic ones, but there are indications of dutchwhich also bring very good yields. When they are sown in the beds. Of these, the most persistent and fruitful for central Russia can be distinguished. These include the "Chinese Serpent". These cucumbers are very tender, sweet, they are most useful in salads. And in general, this variety is exactly salad, at best, such fruits can only be salted at the level of lightly salted. This series also includes a number of hybrids, such as "Chinese heat-resistant", for example, or "Emerald Stream". All of them are salad options that ripen quickly enough in the open field. And their appearance is about the same, it is presented in the next photo.

Ecole F1

This hybrid belongs to those who bear early fruits. It is 40 days, just like the dead, and green cucumbers 12 cm long appear. There are many small bumps on the surface, and the bushes are very tall. The fruits do not overripe, but you need to know that you do not need to wait until they reach the established norm of length, you need to pick them already at the level of 8 cm. These are cucumbers, first of all, for salads, snacks based on cucumber slices. But salting them is also worth trying.

High-yielding cucumber varieties Temp F1

This hybrid ripens early. His bush is not very branched. Weaving not developed on a single branch ripens 2 - 3 cucumbers. They are long, similar to cylinders, their length is 10 cm, the ripening period is 45 days. But we always ask ourselves how to use this or that variety, hybrid. This one can be safely used both in salads and in conservation.

Herman F1

This is also a hybrid, like many of the previous ones. And its distinguishing feature is that it bears early fruit. But this is not even the most important thing, because there are other varieties that bear fruit early. Its main advantage over all is a very large number of ripe cucumbers harvested from the bushes. Oddly enough, its fruits are distinguished by a dark shade of green, there are many small bumps on their surface. Definitely, this cucumber goes directly to the salad. But the main thing for us is its ability to salt it. And these prospects are excellent - you can safely and a lot of salt.

The varieties, hybrids of cucumbers, which are indicated above, are part of self-pollinated plants, and some require partial pollination. They are very resistant to external changes in the environment, as well as to cold weather, precipitation.

They are capable of producing large yields, and many of them are among those that ripen very early. Having planted seeds of these varieties in the ground, the gardener will certainly collect a good collection of green fruits, and they can be eaten fresh and salted.

Seedlings of cucumbers in peat tablets

One of the most thoughtful ways to grow seedlings is growing in peat tablets. This option is very suitable for a cucumber, as it has thin and fragile roots that break easily when diving. Because of this, the plant then freezes for a while, instead of actively growing. And by planting cucumbers in the ground together with a tablet, the root system does not suffer and the plant immediately grows.

The only drawback of this method, with a large number of seedlings, will be costly - the tablets are not cheap.

Sowing seeds

First, peat tablets are prepared, put into a container and filled with warm water. After a few minutes, the tablets swell and become thick columns.

Before putting the seed, in the upper part of the tablet they make a small, up to 1 cm deep, depression - a bed for the seed, where the seed is placed horizontally. It is not necessary to press the seed strongly. Sprinkle on top with peat from the same tablet. You do not need to water the pill, it is already wet.

The container with the tablets is covered with a bag (film), placed in a warm place. The emergence of seedlings is checked. As soon as the loops appear, the film is removed and the container is placed in the light. Water the seedlings as the soil dries.

Landing in the ground

When 1-2 true leaves appear on the seedlings, a mesh is cut on the tablet, and the seedling tablet itself is transplanted together with a peat column into the ground to a permanent place. The elongated seedlings are buried to the cotyledons.

Cleavage grafting: sequence of execution

Stage 1. At a height, the stem is cut with a saw, its diameter at the grafting site should be optimal (for stone fruit crops, pome fruit stems of larger diameter are not suitable, since too large a wound surface does not overgrow well, it is strongly affected by pathogenic fungi.

Stage 2. The surface of the saw cut is cleaned with a garden knife, freeing it from burrs. Then, using the same knife and hammer, the rootstock stem is split exactly in the center to a depth

Stage 3. The scion stalk should be long and have buds (depending on the length of internodes). After performing the necessary operations on the stem, a wedge-shaped cut is made with a grafting knife with a length on the graft of the scion. At the same time, they make sure that the wedge turns out to be even - on the one hand, it should be thicker, on the other, thinner.

Stage 4. With the blade of a garden knife, split the split and insert the scion stalk with the thicker side of the wedge outward so that the cambial layers of the scion and rootstock on this side coincide. The garden knife is taken out of the split, and the halves of the rootstock tightly squeeze the scion stalk. It is undesirable to plant two or more cuttings on the same rootstock stem at the same time. Having taken root, they will compete, so you need to leave one, and cut the rest. In addition, all cuttings have different thicknesses, and if, for example, two are inserted along the edges of the split, then one will be tightly compressed by the stock, and the other will not.

Stage 5. Vaccination site covered with plasticine... Garden var often "fails". Made on a synthetic base, it melts under the influence of solar heat and flows into the cleavage, burning living tissue. This leads to the death of the vaccine.

Stage 6. The vaccination site is tied with electrical tape: it fixes the scion stalk well, protects it from moisture. At the same time, it stretches well during the growth of the graft, it does not need to be removed. But the tape "scotch" should not be used, it does not stretch, constrictions are formed on the grafts, which inhibits growth and can lead to the death of the grafted seedling.

Stage 7. The top of the scion cutting is covered with plasticine so that it does not dry out. Protect stone fruit grafts with plastic bags, since cuttings of these crops have a low water-holding capacity and can dry out. They can be removed after 3 weeks.

Stages of spring splitting grafting