Calla lily care in questions and answers

Calla lily care in questions and answers


Today FLORIUM.UA consultants are answering customer questions about growing calla tuber within the “Partners” section.

Tell us about tuberous calla

Calla is one of the finest flowers currently available on the market. Much appreciated for its elegance and beauty. Until now, the most popular of this species has been the white calla or Ethiopian (also known as zantedeschia). It is a plant with large bright green leaves and gorgeous flowers. It belongs to the Aroid family. It can reach a height of one and a half meters. Leaves can be up to 50 cm long and 25 cm wide. Calla white was grown both at home and in a greenhouse for cutting. Also used as a marsh plant or planted in the garden until fall. Then they dug it up, since calla lilies winter outdoors only in regions with a mild climate.

In addition to the Ethiopian calla, you will also find multi-colored hybrids on sale, which growers fall in love with more and more often. They grow without problems in the apartment, and on the balcony, and right in the ground. Very often make up the main element of wedding bouquets. Their leaves are either completely green or speckled green in color.

The flower is undoubtedly the most characteristic element. It can be yellow, orange, pink, red, purple and even black. It is a transformed sheet (bedspread), looks like a single large petal with a curved ear.

We usually call the top of a plant with a classic funnel-shaped shape, of different colors, as a flower. But in reality it is a leaf that has the function of wrapping a real flower in order to protect it. The actual flowers are very small and are located on an elongated spadix in the center of the ear.

Popular types:

All calla lilies can be divided into early and late flowering species. Let's take a look at them.

  • Calla or Ethiopian Zantedeschia (Zantedeschia aethiopica) - early flowering species;
  • K. Schwarzwalder (Zantedeschia Schwarzwalder) - early flowering. Dark purple flower and white-veined leaves;
  • K. white-spotted or spotted calla (Zantedeschia albomaculata, z. Melanoleuca) - late flowering. This species is characterized by leaves clustered in bunches that can be up to 50 cm long. The leaves have silvery white spots.
  • "Flowers" (quotation marks to distinguish real flowers from what we usually call flowers) are white or cream colored and have a deep red throat that covers the ear.
  • K. Elliott (Zantedeschia elliottiana) - late. It is characterized by heart-shaped and variegated leaves, the length of which reaches 45 cm. "Flowers" are 10 cm long and have a golden-yellow veil that envelops an intense yellow ear.
  • K. Remann or Remanni (Zantedeschia Rehmanii) - late. A perennial species that blooms in summer. The color of the bedspread can vary from pink to red, the ear is yellow.

Some are evergreen, while others shed their leaves during the resting period. Evergreen calla lilies overwinter in a pot. It should be kept in a well-lit room and cool (at a temperature of about 10 degrees). During hibernation, the plant is not watered or fertilized. The ground must dry completely.

What does a tuber look like?

The calla tuber is disc-shaped. Two-year-old underground organs, in turn, are irregular in shape, but are characterized by the highest energy. However, with age, they resemble flattened bulbs. Interestingly, part of the tuber remains dormant, and a gibberellin solution must be used to stimulate its growth.

White calla lilies emerge from rhizomes. They have a vertical structure - the roots should grow from below. They are also quite short. Their structure can be described as fleshy.

I have never grown calla lilies, but I bought some tubers. Is there a difference in growing colored (tuberous) and whites.

Calla lilies are white marsh shrubs that originate from eastern Africa. Accordingly, they require abundant and uniform watering. For colored (tuberous) calla lilies, excessive moisture is destructive. They do not tolerate both generous watering and stagnant water. White calla lilies prefer a light shade and bloom longer. During the dormant period, the leaves stay on the plant. And colored ones - they love sunlight and during the rest period their ground part completely dies off. They are undemanding to the soil.

Does anyone grow potted calla lilies? Share your experience.

  • Tuberous calla is planted in a pot in spring.
  • The substrate should be fresh, nutritious and well-drained.
  • Planting depth is about 5-7 cm.
  • Place the tubers with the rounded side down and the buds (tubercles) up.
  • The abundance of flowering will depend on the size of the planting material. The larger the tuber, the more flowers it forms. Place the plant pot in full sun, in a calm place.
  • Provide moderate watering. Calla is one of the few plants whose roots do not need to dry out during growth. The water can be left on the stand during the growth phase.
  • Important: keep the substrate dry after flowering (rest period)!
  • During growth, until the flowers form, every 2 weeks and during the flowering period, fertilize the calla with regular liquid fertilizer weekly. Proper fertilization is essential for flowering.
  • The plant hibernates in a cool room and can be placed in a warmer area from January.
  • In February-March, transplant the tuber into a new pot with fresh soil.
  • From May calla lilies can be taken out into the garden.

Important! To speed up flowering, it is recommended to plant already sprouted tubers.

How many calla lilies germinate?

It will take a long time to wait for the “first shoots”: 2–4 weeks. Sprouted tubers throw out shoots with leaves earlier than ordinary ones.

Is it possible to plant tuberous calla lilies in the ground, without shelter?

Some calla lilies, such as Calla aethiopica or the Pink Mist calla variety, can easily tolerate cold temperatures. Although the leaves of these plants die off in the fall, their rhizomes overwinter in the soil (if the winters are warm). And new shoots appear from the ground in the spring, as if nothing had happened. However, in order for the tubers of most calla varieties to withstand the low winter temperatures well, they must be dug up in early October.

  • Cut the yellow leaves
  • Remove land
  • Let the tuber dry
  • Store in a cool, frost-free place
  • Plant in spring after the threat of recurrent frost has passed.

Where to buy calla lilies tubers?

Click here to see the full range of calla lilies! Discover and buy calla lilies (tubers and rhizomes) of the best quality in the online store FLORIUM.UA. Instant delivery by New mail and Ukrposhta!

Calla reviews

I have always liked calla lilies for their elegance, but I saw only white ones, and here such beauty! I thought that these flowers need troublesome and painstaking care, and the difficulties of growing were stopped, but as it turned out, everything is much simpler. Now I know how to please myself. (Tanechka)

I had calla lilies a few years ago. I did the following with her: In the spring I planted her in the garden, where she felt great and bloomed vividly, and in the fall I planted her in a pot and took her home, I will not say that she feels great in room conditions, but nevertheless constantly releases new leaves, and the old ones turn yellow. I think she would feel great in the winter garden. (Alina)

Calla used to be an outlandish flower. I met her as a child. In our next street, one family bred them in greenhouses, for cutting. And my mother and I went to buy them for the holidays. They seemed so fabulous to me then ... (Nika)


  1. Information about Garden Plants

Categories: Garden Plants Flowering

Fruit garden in questions and answers

Do I need to dig up the soil under trees and bushes?

The air exchange in the soil and moisture permeability will be excellent if you do not dig up the soil, and thereby destroy the complex system of microtubules that are formed after the decomposition of numerous sucking hair roots each season. Therefore, you can not dig up the soil either in the fall or in the spring. If the soil contains a sufficient amount of humus, then it does not compact and does not need to be dug up, but it is enough to loosen it in the spring.

Do trunk circles need to be mulched?

Mulching retains moisture (especially in drought and irregular irrigation), delays the germination of weeds, and additionally "refills" the soil with organic nutrients. For mulching, use peat, compost, humus, grass, leaves, etc. Choose one of these materials and cover the soil around the desired plant with a layer of 6-10 cm. Mulch near-trunk circles under trees, shrubs, stripes (rows) between plants, perennials flowers.

It is very useful to mulch the soil between the rows of raspberries and strawberries. Mulching protects strawberries from rotting, inhibits the growth of weeds. For mulching raspberries, it is good to use a layer of straw about 20 centimeters.

When and how to feed fruit trees and shrubs?

Horticultural crops need to be fed twice a season. Perform the first feeding in the spring or early summer, when the foliage is intensively growing in the plants. Use fertilizers containing nitrogen and potassium in equal proportions. Never apply nitrogen fertilizers without potash. Potassium nitrate is most suitable for spring feeding.

In garden plants, in the second half of August, there is an intensive growth of roots, so they should be fed with phosphorus and potassium. If the weather is dry, fertilize should be done after abundant watering. Take 3 tbsp for a bucket of water. spoons of fertilizer. Pour this solution around the perimeter of the crown, because there are sucking roots.

When is the best time to plant trees and shrubs?

Trees are best planted in spring. But berry bushes (raspberries, currants, gooseberries), as long-term observations show, are best planted in the fall. In the spring, when the buds are already blooming, and the earth has not completely thawed yet, it is pointless to plant. Raspberries can be planted immediately after fruiting. The ideal time is from 10 September to 20 October. Plants planted at these times have time to take root well and the next year they already delight with the first harvest.

Planting material is best purchased in the fall. In this case, the trees should be dug in a horizontal position (the tops should be raised above the soil and not covered) until spring.

Where to plant an apricot?

Apricot is a thermophilic culture; in frosty winters, when the temperature drops below -25 ° C, the plants suffer greatly. Apricot is very picky about nutritional conditions. In the area where apricots will grow, the groundwater level should be no higher than 1.5 m. Otherwise, drainage must be used. It is necessary to plant apricots in areas protected from the wind, in sunny areas. Apricot grows well and bears fruit only in nutrient-rich soil. Apricot grows poorly on heavy soils. Trees planted in lowlands with a high level of groundwater, as a rule, die and freeze out. The soil should be loose, water and air permeable, at the same time capable of retaining a sufficient amount of moisture in the root layer. Apricot does not tolerate waterlogging and drought, preferring higher areas.

What are actinidia berries? Are they edible?

Other names for this plant are purple Chinese gooseberry, hardy kiwi, purpurea actinidia. It has a flexible stem, which, reaching the top of the support, begins to branch. Actinidia blooms in June-July. Its flowers are snow-white, with dark purple stamens, very fragrant. After their flowering, small edible fruit-berries appear: greenish or red-purple, oval, with smooth skin and small seeds, with a fragrant and deliciously sweet piquant taste. They ripen in mid September - early October. The fruits are very healthy - they contain 10 times more vitamin C than lemons. Fruiting already 2-3 years after planting. Actinidia is a high-yielding plant, producing 5-10 kg or more of fruits. The average fruit weight is 12-18 g.

How to preserve grape shanks from autumn to spring?

Tie them in a bun, wrap with several layers of newspaper or sphagnum moss. Place in a plastic bag and open it slightly, place it on the bottom shelf of the refrigerator or between window frames. In March, plant in a sloped soil box. Place in a warm place so that the soil temperature is about 20˚С, and the aboveground part is at a temperature not higher than 12-15˚С. Rooting will take place quickly. When the threat of frost has passed, plant the rooted cuttings in the garden.

How to choose the right cherry variety?

When choosing cherry varieties, the first thing you should pay attention to is winter hardiness. Select only those varieties that are suitable for your climatic conditions. It is equally important that the variety is resistant to such a dangerous fungal disease as coccomycosis, from which the cherry suffers greatly.

Can blueberries be grown in the garden?

Yes, you can. The most important point is choosing the right soil. She needs moist, breathable, and most importantly, acidic soil (pH 3.5 - 5.0). Scientists have noticed that at pH 5.5, the yield of blueberries decreases, and at pH 6.8, its growth stops completely. And if the pH is 3.2 and below, the plants begin to hurt. Ideal will be acidic soils with a humus content of at least 4% organic matter. Don't be discouraged if your soil is not the same. There is a solution: grow blueberries in tubs and containers, using the necessary soil mixture.

Unlike black currants, blueberries have much lower winter hardiness. At a temperature of -20 ... -25 ° C, sensitive varieties freeze out, more resistant ones - they can withstand a drop in temperature to -25 ... -27 ° C. Choose frost-resistant varieties, as blueberries bloom in spring and flowers are often damaged. The second factor for successful cultivation, after acidity, is good moisture-absorbing soil. If moisture is scarce in your area, mulch the plants with a continuous, thick layer of sawdust.

How to choose the right pear varieties?

To get a bountiful harvest, you need to choose two different varieties with different ripening periods (summer, autumn, winter). Summer pear varieties ripen in July-August and are ready for consumption immediately after harvest. Such varieties are not suitable for storage. Winter and podzimnye varieties are harvested at the end of September - October. Such fruits last for several months. Fruits of late varieties ripen in storage.

Why does a pear bear fruit badly?

Because it grows with you alone. A pear is a cross-pollinated plant, and at least two plants must be planted.

Honeysuckle is edible, what kind of berry?

The edible honeysuckle fruit is very similar in appearance and taste to blueberries (or even raspberries). They, like blueberries, contain ascorbic acid and a high amount of antioxidants, sugar - glucose, fructose, sucrose. Honeysuckle berries have an unusual blue color, an oblong shape and a delicate indescribable taste. They are very helpful for hypertension and cardiovascular diseases, bleeding, strengthen blood vessels, are used for diseases of the gallbladder and gastrointestinal disorders.

Fresh berries and jam from them are an effective antipyretic agent. It is a storehouse of vitamins and biologically active substances. Berries contain a large amount of vitamin C and P. But only one taste is enough to classify it as one of the ten most exquisite berries. Sweet and sour - sweet berries are good to freeze, dry, eat fresh, use for making jam, jam, juice, compote, wine. Berries ripen in early June (even earlier than strawberries), berries of late varieties can be eaten until August.

Honeysuckle is already three years old, and it hardly grows? What's the matter?

In the first years, in honeysuckle, like in sea buckthorn and lilac, the root system is intensively developing, and the aerial part practically does not grow. But, as soon as powerful roots are formed, the plant gives a large increase and from that moment begins to bear fruit. This usually takes just 3 years.

How often should strawberries be transplanted?

Strawberry or strawberry is a perennial herb. In one place it can grow for 2-3 years, after the yield decreases, and the bushes need to be planted. So that strawberries do not get sick and grow strong, we recommend planting them after such cultivated plants as garlic, onions, carrots, beets, celery, cabbage.

Can strawberries and strawberries be grown from seeds?

Growing strawberries from seeds is easy. In addition, growing strawberries from seeds has many advantages: firstly, it is profitable (seeds are much cheaper than seedlings), and secondly, you will receive absolutely healthy planting material. Strawberry and strawberry seeds need to go through a stage of stratification for successful germination. For this we recommend using the method of sowing seeds in the snow. In a container with soil, pour a 2 cm layer of snow over the surface. Since strawberry seeds are small and cannot be sprinkled with soil, the snow during thawing will draw them into the soil to the required depth. That is, we must create conditions for seeds that are close to natural ones.

Spread the seeds over the surface of the snow. Since they are very small, use a slightly dampened toothpick. Place the containers with the sown seeds in the refrigerator for two to three days, on the lower shelf. This is done so that the snow melts slowly and sucks the seeds into the soil. After three days, remove the containers from the refrigerator, cover with glass or plastic and place on a light, moderately warm windowsill (18-22 ° C). Open the glass every day, for ventilation, moisten the soil as necessary using a weak sprayer. Young strawberries and strawberries (however, like all other seedlings) need a lot of light.

Where to plant gooseberries?

When choosing a site for planting gooseberries, consider the following facts. On fertile soils, gooseberries grow and bear fruit for more than 20 years, on poor sandy or peaty soils - up to 14 years. Unsuitable for planting heavy clay soils with a close occurrence of groundwater. For planting gooseberries, you need to choose an even, well-lit place (sun / partial shade), protected from the prevailing winds. The soil should be fertile, clayey or loamy, well-drained, with an acidity level of 5.5 to 7.0. The soil must also retain moisture without becoming waterlogged.

Why do the tops of the young growth wither in raspberries?

Because the shoots were attacked by pests. Namely a raspberry fly. It is necessary to cut out young shoots with drooping tops to the very ground and burn, and not throw them anywhere.

Do you need to thin out raspberry bushes?

Young plants, in the first years after planting, form many root suckers. They need to be cut, leaving only the strongest shoots (2 - 3). Cut out any thin and damaged branches. The distance between them should be 25 - 30 cm. If you need planting material, then leave more shoots that you dig up in the fall.

In raspberries, each shoot lives for only two years. In the first year, it grows vegetative mass and lays fruit buds. In the second year, it bears fruit and dies. Therefore, in the fall, cut out and burn these shoots (especially if the bushes were sick). In early spring (late February - March), shorten annual shoots by 17 - 20 cm. Such a shortening will stimulate the formation of lateral shoots and an increase in fruiting.

When and how to prune garden shrubs?

Raspberry bushes, black and red currants, gooseberries are best cut in autumn. Because in the spring, these plants quickly form buds, and you may simply not be in time to prune. And if you cut them in the spring, then there is a high probability of leakage (in the places of cuts) of juice, especially during warming. Autumn pruning of black currants is carried out in order to rejuvenate the bush, remove dry and damaged branches. Perform this pruning at the end of September - October. Remove all old, dry, diseased, thin branches and branches thickening the bush. Cut all these branches at the base of the bush. Burn branches infected with fungi, shingles, viruses or pests. Grind the rest in a garden meat grinder and use as mulching material or place in a compost pit. If the currant or gooseberry bushes are too old and refuse to bear fruit, cut the entire bush into a stump. This rejuvenating pruning will stimulate the formation of new shoots.

When do berry bushes begin to bear fruit?

Strawberries appear in the second year after planting. Strawberries begin to bear fruit earlier than other fruits and berries. So, you can harvest at the end of May - June. Currants (black and red) and gooseberries. Fruiting on two-year-old shoots. Therefore, you can feast on berries two to three years after planting. End of form Chokeberry (chokeberry) usually enters the fruiting period for 2-3 years. Raspberries. Also a fast-growing plant. Repaired varieties will delight with their harvest in the first year after planting, and other varieties - with good care, in the second year.

Why did the red currant stop bearing fruit?

Most likely, the bush is already old. Fruit branches, on which flower buds are laid, live for about 10 years, and then the branch becomes outdated, and you just need to cut it out. The whole bush can become outdated if it is about 15-20 years old. In this case, the bush can be rejuvenated, gradually, over three years, cutting out a third of the bush, to the very base. The bush of black currant also rejuvenates after about 10-12 years or gooseberry - after 8-10 years, and for black currant - after 5. Therefore, as soon as the bush stops bearing fruit, it should be cut to the point of attachment to the trunk.

Where to plant apple trees?

The apple tree grows well on fairly loose and moist, but not waterlogged soils: medium loam and light chernozems. The soil should be loose, moist, without waterlogging, pH - 6.1-6.5. Take an open, but quiet place under the apple trees, where the sun's warmth and light breeze combine as much as possible, but without drafts and strong winds.

Plant young seedlings separately from the old garden and away from home. Spring planting is carried out in early April. The distance between apple seedlings should be 4 m, and between rows - 6 m.

Can cranberries be grown in the garden?

For good growth and generous fruiting, cranberries need a very acidic soil (pH 3.5-5). Although it grows in swamps in the wild, it needs moderately moist soil in the garden. It is especially important to keep the topsoil where the roots are located when wet. Avoid stagnant water in the area, especially during fruiting. The soil must be air and water permeable, contain large amounts of peat and sand. For cranberries, it is advisable to choose a flat, well-lit area, without slopes. Do not plant plants near shrubs and trees, as they will compete for light and water all the time. In choosing a suitable site, some weeds can help you - indicators that grow in certain soil pH. Ideal will be soils where horsetail, sphagnum mosses, podbelo, marsh rosemary, various types of cotton grass, sedge, marsh myrtle, and rushes grow. And the areas where clover, mother and stepmother, wheatgrass, chamomile grow, are not suitable for cranberries, since they have a neutral reaction.

How to attract bees to your garden?

The bee is a reliable and loyal assistant to gardeners. Without these tiny insects, our gardens, berry fields, vegetable crops would not bear fruit. The more bees in the garden, the higher the yields. The bee is able to find pollinating plants within a radius of up to two kilometers. How pleasant it is to watch the little workers who carry pollen on their tiny paws. But not every garden bees willingly fly, they need to be attracted somehow. In order for the bees to fly into your garden with a hunt, plant a variety of flowers and plants in it, with different flowering periods. Also, do not use chemicals to spray plants.

Top dressing for roses in questions and answers

Galina Pankratova, Chairperson of the Delbara Rose Lovers Society, is well known to readers as an outstanding connoisseur of roses and a popularizer of the secrets of healthy rose growing. Today Galina Mikhailovna answers questions about dressing for roses, which are most often asked by novice flower growers, as well as students of the course in the "Kalitka" club.

Proper feeding is essential for good flowering roses.

  • If you follow the published recommendations for feeding roses, then you need to organize a whole warehouse for storing mineral fertilizers. Are roses really so demanding?

The main recommendations have been developed by specialists for nurseries and greenhouses for a long time. It is much more economical to use fertilizer in bags there, and there were no specialized fertilizers for roses before. Gradually, these recommendations of experts were overgrown with amateur horror stories - so much so that growing roses is elevated to the rank of feat.

One of the leading British rose growers, multiple chairman of the Chelsea show committee, John Mattock advises using complex fertilizers for roses, which are brought in according to the manufacturer's instructions. Simple and understandable to everyone, if you forgot something - read the instructions again. A complex mineral fertilizer of domestic production "Kemira Universal 2" has a close to optimal formula (NPK12–8–14).

  • How to identify micronutrient deficiencies?

Symptoms of micronutrient deficiency or their excess (toxicity) cannot be visually recognized even by an experienced rose grower; soil and foliage analysis is required. If you come across pictures in the literature depicting the symptoms of a deficiency of any of the micronutrients, consider them with curiosity, but do not consider it acquired knowledge.

Even an experienced rose grower cannot determine by the appearance of a plant its need for trace elements.

Use specialized fertilizers for roses with a set of trace elements and at the stage of plant budding, spray with ash infusion. I do not approve of the uncontrolled use of numerous solutions offered in garden centers and I want to remind you that not only a lack of trace elements, but also their excess leads to a change in the immune status of plants. I am reliably aware of cases when, unnecessarily, numerous dressings with microelements were used and, as a result, they led to the weakening of beautiful and healthy roses.

You can choose fertilizers for roses in our catalog, which combines the offers of large garden online stores. Choose fertilizer for roses.

Fertilizer Phosphatovit for roses

Fertilizer for roses and chrysanthemums

Liquid organo-mineral fertilizer for roses, 250 ml

Fertilizer Azotovit for roses

  • How to properly spread fertilizers - around each bush or evenly over the entire area?

Fertilizer works faster and more efficiently if it enters the plant nutrition zone. As a rule, roses are planted in separate pits, therefore, a complex granular fertilizer is applied under the bush (around a circle with a radius of about 15 cm), so it will reach the goal faster.

  • When are mineral fertilizers applied - before watering or after watering?

You are trying to remember only the sequence of operations, but you need to know the meaning. No matter how you sprinkle fertilizers - in dry or wet soil - the plant will receive them no earlier than they dissolve and are filtered into the zone of vital activity of the roots.

In moist soil, nutrients dissolve faster

When fertilizers are applied to wet soil, the rate of their dissolution increases, but not all batteries dissolve quickly... Nitrogen will begin to flow immediately, and other elements will be filtered with subsequent irrigation.

  • In the literature, there are conflicting recommendations for the introduction of phosphorus. Why is this question being interpreted differently?

Phosphorus is essential for plants; scientists believe it contributes to the development of the root system, early spring growth and metabolism. Phosphorus, in contrast to nitrogen and potassium, is more firmly retained by soils, and cases of its deficiency are extremely rare. In practice, its excess is more often possible, especially with annual mulching of plantings with rotted manure. The high phosphate content reduces the availability of iron, manganese and zinc to plants.

  • If the planting of roses is mulched, then how to carry out top dressing in the summer?

Many gardeners are concerned that mulch serves as a barrier to mineral fertilizers and can disrupt the nutrient balance in the soil. Raking up the mulch during summer feeding is too time consuming, so it remains to be hoped that through its loose layer of fertilizer they will quickly wash out into the root zone, and the goal will be achieved. If you notice signs of nutrient deficiency, then move the feeding to an earlier date, about a week.

How to feed roses if the soil is mulched?

  • How to grow roses in sandy soils?

Sandy soils are easy to cultivate but difficult to successfully grow roses. They do not retain moisture and nutrients are easily washed out. The problems are largely surmountable by adding organic matter. I also advise you to use mulching plantings. A good result is given by foliar feeding: nutrients through the leaves quickly enter the cell sap and compensate for the nutritional deficiency.

Read also:

  • What does the rose want? Healthy food for the queen of flowers
  • Summer rose care
  • Growing roses in questions and answers
  • A clear and simple scheme for feeding roses for beginner rose growers
  • How to feed roses in summer on a leaf. Foliar dressing. Succinic acid for roses

The book provides answers to almost 600 questions on soil cultivation, caring for it, the construction of greenhouses, greenhouses, the correct alternation of crops in the personal plot, obtaining high yields of garden crops taken by the author, doctor of agricultural sciences, academician of the Academy of Agrarian Education, from the practice set when communicating with amateur gardeners on courses, when conducting radio and television broadcasts.
Many answers are illustrated.

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Garden flower hydrangea in questions and answers

Biologist Yuri Bazhenov answers questions

Now many new varieties have appeared, especially in the panicle hydrangea. It is impossible to choose, you want everything. Can different species and varieties be combined into groups?

In my opinion, this is a great option. True, at the beginning of the season, such a composition will play a little bit, something else needs to be added. But from the second half of July, when flowering begins, it will be fine. Although a sort like ‘Early Sensation ’(‘ Bulk ’), blooms at the end of June.

And there are rules according to which hydrangeas are grouped, what if there are varieties that cannot be combined?

I think they are great in almost any composition. The traditional rules for compiling a mixborder apply here - contrast in color or playing on smooth transitions, the choice of flowering time. The height game is very interesting: small plants - ‘Darts Little Dot’or 'Bombshell' - forward, and tall - ‘Kyushu’, 'Grandiflora' - on the second, and even on the third plan. Early pinking varieties look very interesting, for example 'Vanille Fraise' with traditional white flowers. Or 'Lime Light' with white or pink varieties.

Our readers, as a rule, are advanced gardeners and, when composing compositions, try to take into account the agrotechnical requirements of different types. Are there general rules for combining hydrangeas with other plants?

To be honest, I don't know any rules, no restrictions. I cannot name plants that are categorically unsuitable for hydrangeas as partners, or vice versa. This is a very plastic culture.

Hydrangeas grow wonderfully on slightly acidic soils, this is just for us. More acidic soils are also acceptable. Plus, the panicle hydrangea “holds” well and slightly alkaline ones. In Russia, however, they are rare. Then the attitude to moisture - everywhere it is said that hydrangea requires rich, moist soils, but my site, for example, is bare sand. The last two or three extreme years, of course, they showed not the best flowering, not the best growth, but they behaved quite satisfactorily, and this year they were absolutely magnificent.

I think our readers will be interested in how you support hydrangeas in the sand, what are you doing for them?

Compost additions, regular, as long as there is enough time, of course, top dressing, watering. We also try to add clay to all planting pits as a hydraulic accumulator. Not a waterproofing layer, as is usually recommended (which is also very laborious), but simply add to the substrate. Clay holds water very well and then gradually releases it to the plants.

We'll touch on agrotechnics, but now let's get back to design. What ornamental-leaved shrubs would you combine hydrangeas with?

So after all, hydrangeas themselves come with decorative leaves! ‘Shikoku Flash’, for example, paniculate with white specks on the foliage. Of course, this plant is more for collectors, but it is very interesting.

The developed specimen is certainly noticeable. And there is a kind of woody 'Raven Lace' with strongly, strongly excised, such, you know, "chewed" foliage. As for the combination with other cultures, I do not see any difficulties. One of the most amazing options I've come across - 'Lime Light' against the background of dark-leaved barberry in a shrub mixborder. Looks awesome! Hydrangeas are universal, depending on the shape of the crown, they can be either loose free forms or clear ones. You can try (and it will be nice!) To combine hydrangeas with sheared forms or plants with a compact crown. There is also an interesting option - a "cloudy" mixborder or hedge. That is, pick up plants with a rounded crown. It seems to me that hydrangeas go very well with conifers. Against the background of a hedge or large fir trees with dark needles, white inflorescences look very advantageous.

I saw an interesting composition with cereals. In the foreground there is millet or something just as airy, lively, mobile, and in the middle and background there are hydrangeas, that is, on the contrary, something static and heavy. Hydrangeas with blue aconites (Arends, Karmikhael) are good: powerful, solid, bright, while radically different in color, shape of inflorescences and habits, bloom at the same time and require equal conditions.

It is interesting to combine hydrangeas with crochet clumps, you can, by the way, add croppers to the previous combination. For hydrangeas, ideal cultivation partners are astilbe, hosts, rogers, large ferns, buzulniks (buzuln and toothed ‘Britt-Marie Crawford’, for example), Volzhanka.

I would like to learn more about hydrangeas as a background plant.

Hydrangea is a great background for anything, just like lilacs, large turf, why not? Only the height should be appropriate. Have ‘Kyushu’ height two and a half to three meters. It can be used as a backdrop against which any mixborder is good. By the way, from the tall ones, more 'Levana'.

Found in Taiwan, a natural form of panicle hydrangea (N. paniculata Taiwanform) - plant up to three and a half, four meters. The inflorescences are large, but sparse, transparent, like a swarm of butterflies.

If you use hydrangeas as backstage, their size is only a plus. And if in a mixborder? They grow so fast.

Growth is inhibited by pruning. The property of hydrangea to easily form replacement shoots just allows it to be used in any kind of composition.

You can build up the skeleton of the panicle hydrangea and raise a large variety to a height of two, two and a half, even three meters. And you can radically cut and even plant on a tree stump. Then this large, powerful plant will not be higher than one and a half meters every year. This property makes it possible to use panicle hydrangea even as hedges. Another option is to form solid curtains or massifs. The tree-like in this form is already familiar to us, but the paniculate is not yet. Each year, depending on the variety and the expected result, they are cut off and many large and completely identical inflorescences are obtained at the same height.

Panicle hydrangeas look spectacular not only in the massif. On the trunk, they are also good. True, then the question arises, what to put down?

Ground cover plants, cuff, for example, or Cossack juniper. Lining of ground cover roses is possible. Anything your heart desires. Hydrangea on a stem is good both in a natural garden and in a regular one.

Paniculata and Treelike are really good everywhere. Are there any gardens for which hydrangeas are "contraindicated"? Or separate garden areas?

Unlikely. In hi-tech? They will look there too. You can work - see, pick up. Regular gardens are great too. It looks like it's good everywhere.

As for the different zones of the garden, hydrangea is not an allergen, so I see no restrictions for the recreation area, the landscape part. On playground? So hydrangea is thornless.

What do you think of large-leaved plants? They are so bright that it is probably difficult for them to find equal partners. Can they only have a respectful retinue?

Let's not forget that large-leaved hydrangea is not the best option for our climate. It can be used as an attachment culture. The most affordable are Endless summer and Forewer and Ewer... But necessarily a shelter, a lot depends on the microclimate of the site.

Just think, not for our climate. When did this stop us? We are ready to cover, and huddle, and cherish. Let's combine them in some interesting way too!

You know, garden hydrangea is the exact opposite of the species we just discussed. It is a self-sufficient plant. Plus, it requires shelter, a specific landing site, care. Although. A friend of mine has a site with a natural depression of the relief, overgrown with spruces, wet heavy soil.

Imagine, he uses Endless summer and Forever and Ever as undergrowth! The bushes feel great, since this is a closed, humid place, there is a lot of snow, they are not sheltered even for the winter. When all this blooms, it is an indescribable sight. But you see, the hydrangea, albeit in the massif, is still on its own.

In Europe, one could try to combine with boxwood, with rhododendrons, but again, this is not a combination, but an addition in the first half of summer rhododendrons play, in the second hydrangea, so that a joint but independent life is obtained.

Serrated, oak-leaved, Sargent's hydrangea, like garden ones, require shelter. It turns out that they are "on their own"?

Yes, they are not the kind of plants that make up the skeleton of a garden. They are planted as a curiosity, to which friends are brought and said: "Look what I have."

But the Scandinavians and Poles are now very attentively looking at the serrated.

Last year, at the conference of the Association of Polish Nurseries, there was a report on the comparative winter hardiness of different species and varieties (interestingly, large-leaved hydrangea Endless summer received a "triple"). The serrated hydrangea has varieties that overwinter frankly badly, but there are those that have shown excellent results in the last two or three years in Poland. With a stable flowering, with excellent bush retention. It is clear that selection and selection will continue, and a large number of cultivars will be tested. I think that in the coming years there will be varieties that do not care about our winter. White acacia or robinia, too, was once considered unpromising.

Hydrangeas are rarely affected by diseases, but, nevertheless, are there "dangerous neighbors" for them?

No, I have not heard about it. One has only to bear in mind that young specimens of paniculata sometimes freeze slightly.

Therefore, you need to be more careful with fertilizers in the second half of summer. Perhaps, in the first years, cover very young - annual, biennial plants.

I want hydrangeas to show everything they are capable of. But mature bushes, especially paniculate ones - 'Unique', 'Kyushu', 'Grandiflora' - grow and fall apart over time. Do you need special cropping to prevent this?

Formative pruning is essential.

They have strong branching, overgrown shoots, remember? It is important to build a good, strong skeleton. The second option is annual pruning: either strong or medium, depending on the variety. For varieties like ‘Phantom’ heavy pruning is not recommended, because large, powerful inflorescences will surely ruin the bush, especially during rain.

From tree-like ones, I want to achieve the largest inflorescences possible. How to do it?

Buy the grade you want! Or ‘Annabel’, or a novelty of recent years - in Europe it is very popular, it is slowly penetrating to us too - 'Incrediball'.

Yes, I bought it, such a picture is tempting. What can I do to see the same luxurious hats in my garden?

Just wait a little. Three to four years, and I think you will have the same inflorescences. Good feeding, of course. At the beginning of summer, you can use nitrogen, then potassium-phosphorus. Everything is as usual.

Does pruning not help increase the size of the inflorescence?

With a tree, this does not work as clearly as I can tell from my experience.

When exactly should hydrangeas be pruned?

It seems to me that spring is always safer. In winter, a lot of shoots will trap the snow. Then, many hydrangeas, especially paniculate ones, serve as a decoration for the winter garden. Faded and dried inflorescences are very decorative.

If there is an opportunity, and there is enough time in the spring, then it is more logical to do it.

Do you know how hydrangeas are planted in Europe? Is there a lot to learn?

The use of hydrangea as a coppice crop is extremely popular. They are also planted in large clumps, arrays, that is, in fact, they are used as a ground cover plant. Variety ‘Darts Little Dot’, by the way, was created to fill roadside spaces.

It is very popular in Europe. The flowers are not large, the bush is small, but luxurious in the massif! There are a lot of container plants.

Urban landscaping is a sore subject. How great it would be if hydrangeas grew in our parks too!

Than planting every year crazy flower beds of tulips, then pansies, annuals, it is easier to close a huge area with some of the varieties of hydrangea.

It's a long-lasting, sustainable culture.

I am glad that we, for example, in Mytishchi, have now begun to use a lot of shrubs - Japanese spirea, gray. Hydrangeas paniculate, treelike can go in the same row. It is possible, however, the problem of vandalism, the plant is bright, but lilacs survive here.

Hydrangeas are the most promising for domestic nurseries - they are easy to propagate and grow. And demand looks set to be high for many years to come. After all, the reasonable price and long-term decorative effect make it possible to use hydrangeas for seasonal decoration. As with heathers, hebe, they can be used to decorate cafes, balconies. They are convenient as container plants and have a compact root system.

What is there! Already began to offer paniculate and tree-like forcing. I say, unlimited possibilities.

Based on materials from the "Flower Club" magazine

More material on the topic of the section:

Large-leaved hydrangeas are capricious: they freeze out almost to the base, then they vytuyut. But if you follow a few conditions, it is quite possible to grow a hydrangea in your own garden and even get huge caps of flowers.

About varieties

The overwhelming majority of Ukrainian varieties belong to the European summer variety with white pulp and medium aroma, except for the Lipneva variety, which is closer to the very early ripening Central Asian melon “Khandalyak”.
Under the conditions of Ukraine, Central Asian varieties do not have time to ripen; moreover, with an increase in humidity, such plants die from bacteriosis.

In terms of early maturity, most of the Ukrainian melon varieties can be classified as medium early, which ripen in the Steppe conditions 60–65 days after germination. The ultra-early ripening varieties - "Krinichanka", "Lipneva", "Titovka" are especially appreciated. They ripen in all soil and climatic zones.

Watch the video: my first ever experiment on how to propagate calla lily