Barberry: selection, cultivation and use in garden decoration

Barberry: selection, cultivation and use in garden decoration

Barberries are very numerous and varied. The leaves of barberries are also of different shapes: ovoid, lanceolate and elliptical.

Each plant of these species can beautify your garden. All barberries tolerate a haircut well, so they can be used for curbs and hedges of different heights. Barberry is especially indispensable for these purposes in the northern regions, where the choice of plants for creating architectural forms is small.

Its single bushes are beautiful, sometimes with arched drooping branches, as well as group plantings of 3-4 bushes on the lawn or against the background of large trees. Barberries are used in gardening paths to fix the soil of the slopes.

Caring for barberries is simple. They are unpretentious to soils, winter-hardy, drought-resistant, photophilous. Among them are evergreen species. In addition, all types of barberry are good honey plants.

In private gardens in our country, two types are most often found.

Common barberry (Berberis vulgaris L.)... The most common and unpretentious shrub of all barberries. It can be up to 2.5 m tall with shoots first yellowish and yellowish-purple, and later brownish-gray. Cylindrical racemose inflorescences up to 5 cm long. The berries of this barberry are oblong-elliptical, purple, up to 1.2 cm long, remaining on the bushes until autumn. Ripen in September. They have a pleasant tart-sour taste. Barberry fruits can be ground into powder, which, due to its pronounced sour taste, can be used to prepare seasonings. They contain a lot of ascorbic acid. They are also used to make drinks, jams, marshmallows, liqueur.

This barberry propagates both by seeds, stratified for two months, and by summer cuttings.

Barberry Thunberg (Berberis thunbergii)... One of the most beautiful low-growing species of barberry, reaching a height of up to 1 m. This is the most famous species after the common barberry. An extremely decorative and frost-resistant shrub with many forms, varieties and hybrids - there are red-leaved, silvery-bordered, multi-flowered plants. This is a plant with simple, up to 1 cm long spines, with graceful, arcuate deviating, ribbed shoots and rather small, spatulate or almost rounded entire leaves. In summer they are bright green, and in autumn they are yellow, bright orange, crimson, sometimes almost purple. At this time, this barberry is especially decorative. It blooms in May - June. In autumn, its bright red, sour-tasting fruits also adorn the shrub. The Thunberg barberry propagates by summer cuttings and seeds stratified for three months, which sprout in two months.

It is necessary to start feeding barberries from the second year. Before winter, it is advisable to mulch the bushes with a layer of up to 10 cm for painless overwintering. The first 2-3 years it is good to cover the bushes with spruce branches. Since the barberry blooms on last year's growths, it is not necessary to carry out a shaping haircut on the plant in the spring.

Tamara Barkhatova
Photo by Olga Rubtsova

The size

Everything you need can be placed in a relatively small area. If a too large structure is located on a large plot, then the summer cottage area seems much smaller in comparison with its real size. This imbalance needs to be corrected. A small area can be visually enlargedif you use a few tricks. This can be done both under the guidance of professionals and independently.

The size of the site directly depends on the zoning of the territory. First of all, you should determine which zones are needed, and which can be combined or removed altogether. If residents are engaged in gardening, then you need to allocate space for a greenhouse, flower beds and ridges... The recreation area can be combined with a playground. If the household is not interested in caring for the plants, then it is better to remove the flower beds.

It is important to correctly arrange all functional areas and ensure unhindered passage to each territory. To reduce the size of buildings, they are surrounded by hedges. The alternation of planting stripes with architectural elements will bring harmony to the perception of the site. It is important to remember that the greenhouse cannot be placed near massive buildings or large trees.

Tall trees should not be planted in a small area. The roots of such plants extend over a large radius and will significantly reduce the area. Such a tree will look harmonious only if you place it in the center. This scheme does not require additional accents in the form of artificial decorations or flower beds. This is an excellent solution for those who plan to make a recreation area out of their site.

To visually enlarge the site, designers advise to allocate more space for planting a lawn.... Grassy cover is usually located in the center of the territory. Bright greenery attracts the rays of the sun, creating the illusion of a vast territory. The edges of the lawn can be accentuated by ridges. Bright shrubs or unusual flowers will become the emotional center of the site.

The boundaries of the garden must be "dissolved"... To do this, it is worth getting rid of the massive fence, replacing it with a small hedge or a twisted metal fence. If it is not possible to remove the bulky fence, then it can be decorated with climbing plants.... It should not be forgotten that plants take some time to fill the entire space.

The use of greenery of different shades visually enlarges the boundaries of the site. The same effect is achieved by using vegetation with leaves of different shapes and sizes. Combining materials will help avoid uniformity. Designers advise leaving some areas free. This technique will make them look easier.


Barberry is a shrub plant belonging to the barberry family. The culture is widespread in Iran, North America, Europe, Eastern Siberia and the Caucasus.

The most common species is the common barberry, which is a branched shrub with tripartite spines with short branches in the corners and developing obovate short-petiolate leaves on them.

Depending on the species and variety, the leaves can be green, yellow and red, as well as variegated in color.

Small flowers of a pale yellow color make up hanging inflorescences-brushes, characterized by a strong pleasant aroma. The flowering period usually begins in May. The fruit is an edible oval-shaped bright red berry.

Barberry is an unpretentious plant that grows well even on infertile soils, in open and shaded areas.

Only species and varieties with brightly colored leaves require intensive lighting. This crop tolerates drought well. Over-watering and stagnant moisture can die.

Neutral soils are more suitable for growing barberry. However, it also grows well on acidic soils.

It is believed that the optimal level of acidity of the soil intended for the cultivation of this crop is pH from 6 to 7.5 units.

Barberry propagates mainly by cuttings. They are planted at intervals of up to 2 m.

When forming a hedge, the bushes are placed at the rate of 2 per 1 m.When planting, a mixture of sand, garden soil and humus is introduced into the ground in a ratio of 1: 1: 1.

High pH soils are neutralized by adding wood ash (200 g / bush) or hydrated lime (300 g / bush). After planting is complete, the soil is mulched.

For the propagation of barberry, you can use not only cuttings, but also seeds that are harvested in the fall after the fruits ripen. To do this, the berries are collected, pressed and then sieved through a coarse sieve. The seeds collected in this way are dried.

When sowing, the seeds are buried in the ground to a depth of 1 cm. They are preliminarily stratified for 2-5 months, keeping at a temperature of no more than 5 ° C. It is recommended to sow the seeds in a well-fertilized and moist soil. The site is pre-loosened.

With proper care, the first shoots appear at the beginning of the summer season. Their thinning is carried out after the formation of 2 true leaves. In this case, the plants are left at a distance of no more than 3 cm from each other.

Fertilizing the soil on the site where the barberry grows should only be in the second year of cultivation. At the same time, nitrogen fertilizers are used in the spring (up to 30 g of urea per 10 liters of water). Subsequently, 3-4 additional dressings are carried out with the addition of complex fertilizers to the soil.

During the growing season of the plant, the soil must be regularly watered (no more than 1 time per week), loosened and cleaned from weeds.

With the onset of autumn, the shrubs are cut off. At the same time, they are freed from old, damaged and poorly developed branches and shoots. Pruning old bushes is recommended in the spring.

When decorating a hedge, branches are cut off only in plants of the second year of life, removing up to 2/3 of the bush. In the future, pruning is recommended at least 2 times a year: in June and August.

For the winter, barberry bushes are covered with spruce branches, sprinkled with peat or dry leaves.

Among insect pests, the flower moth and barberry aphid are especially dangerous for the barberry.

Use in traditional medicine

The roots and leaves of barberry contain alkaloids, tocopherols, carotene, ascorbic, citric and malic acids.

The unripe berries of the plant contain a significant amount of berberine, and the mature ones are rich in sugars, carotenoids, organic acids, pectin and ash.

The alkaloid berberine contained in barberry has the ability to lower blood pressure, activate the secretion of bile and stimulate the muscles of the uterus. The drug prepared with its use - Berberine sulfate - is indicated for cholelithiasis, chronic hepatitis and cholecystitis.

In folk medicine, decoctions, infusions and tinctures from the leaves of barberry are used as a means that has a tonic effect on the organs of the digestive system.

Barberry berries are a natural antibiotic, therefore they are recommended for use in case of toxicosis, vitamin deficiency, malaria, fevers, as well as gastrointestinal disorders.

Barberry fruits are an indispensable component of the menu for people suffering from decreased immunity, hypertension, rheumatism.

A preparation made from a mixture of berries and bark bark helps to stop the symptoms of diabetes mellitus and alleviate the condition of people with this disease.

The tincture, made from a mixture of dried roots, stems and leaves of the plant, is indicated for inflammatory processes, colds and flu.

It can help stop bleeding. Tincture of barberry leaves is included in the program of complex treatment of jaundice, liver and gallbladder diseases, as well as leishmaniasis.

The use of infusion from the bark and stems of barberry gives a high effect in the treatment of angina, cough and eye diseases.

Cooking use

Barberry berries are eaten fresh and dried. They also serve as a flavoring agent for confectionery, cold drinks, jellies and syrups. Marmalade, jam, marshmallow are also prepared from them.

Barberry berries as a seasoning can be used in the preparation of sauces for dishes of game and poultry, veal, beef and lamb.

In the national cuisines of Transcaucasia and the Caucasus, they are combined with horseradish. The fruits of barberry are added to pilaf and minced meat. In addition, they can be pickled and salted.

Barberry compote

  • Water - 500 ml
  • Barberry (berries) - 100 g
  • Sugar - 70 g

Rinse the berries with running water, then put in boiling water and boil for 15-20 minutes.

Strain the finished broth, then put it back on the fire, bring to a boil and add sugar. When the sugar is completely dissolved, remove from heat and refrigerate.

Mushrooms fried with tomatoes and barberry

  • Mushrooms - 500 g
  • Tomatoes - 200 g
  • Barberry (berries) - 30 g
  • Walnut - 20 g
  • Onions (bulbs) - 50 g
  • Vegetable oil - 40 ml
  • Water - 1 l
  • Dill and parsley greens - 20 g.
  • Ground white pepper and salt to taste

Sort the mushrooms, rinse thoroughly with running water, discard in a colander and, letting the water drain, cut into small pieces. Boil in salted water until tender.

Transfer the boiled mushrooms to a preheated pan and fry in vegetable oil, adding finely chopped onions, dry barberries soaked in water and chopped tomatoes.

For a few minutes when ready, add ground pepper, salt and chopped dill and parsley. Serve the dish hot, garnished with dill sprigs and barberry berries.

Lamb pilaf with barberry

  • Lamb - 500 g
  • Rice - 500 g
  • Water - 500 ml
  • Onions (bulbs) - 300 g
  • Carrots - 200 g
  • Garlic cloves - 20 g
  • Barberry (berries) - 20 g
  • Coriander seeds - 5 g
  • Vegetable oil - 150 ml
  • Dill and parsley greens - 30 g
  • Ground black and red pepper, salt to taste

Sort the rice and rinse thoroughly with running water. Wash the lamb, dry it slightly with a napkin, then cut into small pieces, transfer to a cauldron and fry in vegetable oil.

Add the carrots, cut into large strips, and fry for 10 minutes, stirring occasionally.

Pour boiling water into the cauldron, put rice and garlic cloves previously washed with running water, add salt, ground pepper, coriander and barberry.

The water should cover the rice by at least 3 cm. Smooth the surface of the mixture. Make a strong heat so that the water boils quickly.

When the water slightly covers the rice, reduce heat to low, place a large dish on top of the rice and cover the cauldron with a lid.

After 20 minutes, remove the cauldron from the heat and insist the pilaf for 20 minutes without opening the lid.

Then mix the pilaf well and serve hot, sprinkle with finely chopped dill and parsley and whole barberry berries.

Duck stuffed with barberry

  • Duck - 1.5-2 kg
  • Figs - 300 g
  • Onions (bulbs) - 50 g
  • Barberry (berries) - 100 g
  • Natural flower honey - 20 g
  • Red wine - 300 ml
  • Lemon - 100 g
  • Cinnamon - 5 g
  • Butter - 50 g
  • Dill and parsley greens - 30 g
  • Salt to taste

To prepare the filling, sort out half of the dried figs indicated in the list of ingredients, rinse with running water, cut each berry in half, and then combine with melted honey, zest and lemon juice. Mix everything well.

Wash the duck under running water, dry inside and outside with a napkin, fill with fig-honey mixture, transfer to a greased baking sheet.

Sprinkle with salt on top and top with a sauce made from honey and a little butter.

Cover with foil and place in an oven preheated to 180-200 ° C. Bake for 1.5 hours. Remove the foil a few minutes before the end of cooking.

Cut the remaining figs into 4 pieces each, transfer to a bowl with high walls and pour over the wine and place on the fire.

Bring to a boil, season with cinnamon and cook for another half hour. Grind the finished mass into a liquid puree.

Peel the onion, wash, chop and sauté in vegetable oil until golden brown. Mix the onion mass with the barberry berries.

Mix everything thoroughly and simmer over low heat for 10-15 minutes. Combine the onion-barberry mixture with the fig filling, stir, bring to a boil and remove from heat.

Place the baked duck on a wide dish, pour over the sauce, garnish with chopped dill and parsley and serve.

  • Barberry - 1 kg
  • Sugar - 1 kg
  • Water - 200 ml

Sort the barberry berries, rinse with running water, put in a colander, put in a container with high walls, add water.

Mix everything, place on fire and boil for 30-40 minutes.

Wipe the cooked mass through a sieve, remove the cake. Add sugar to the remaining liquid puree and boil until the mixture is reduced in volume.

Pour the finished jelly into glass jars and seal with lids.

The classic option is sunflower in open soil

Ornamental sunflowers are classic annuals, which today are often grown directly in the ground. Many gardeners do not even bother with seedlings, sowing them just where they want to get a fun picture with sunny baskets. Outdoor planting is not difficult, but it allows you to create powerful color and optimistic accents in your garden design. True, it is worth remembering that when planting in the ground, it is better to place sunflowers in a group: one plant in the wild will not cope with the "work" that it can do in a pot.

Flower garden with sunflowers. © Jamie McIntosh

The 5 best ways to use sunflower to decorate your garden when planting in soil:

Sunflower hedge. A variety of varieties from undersized to tall giants with shoots of several meters, you can create stunning hedges - and separating zones from one another, and overlapping a fence or building, and creating an effective camouflage. A row of tall sunflowers in the back and crumbs in the foreground, masking all the flaws of the "bottom", look amazing in any setting.

Sunny bloom from July to frost. Just by stretching the planting of sunflower in several stages, dividing the seeds for a couple of weeks, you can stretch their flowering to an amazing time. If you dream of continuous flowering with minimal means, then sunflowers will help you with this.

The sun is on the lawn. If you do not have room to experiment with summer plants, set aside a separate flower garden-island on the lawn for sunflowers. Different varieties in height, color, shape of inflorescences will create a stunningly beautiful accent. On a bright green carpet, the solar company will look simply amazing. And you will not achieve such a contrast of textures and such a disclosure of the nature of a plant anywhere else.

Accent in the garden. You have decorative or classic beds, there is simply no more effective means to make them irresistible than placing decorative sunflowers. A strict row with curious heads as a hedge divider or a few plants in the center as a high peak - you choose. So that sunflowers do not harm the inhabitants of the garden, they can be placed between the beds as "medallions". Live bouquets in the midst of salads and vegetables will forever change your idea of ​​the possibilities of a vegetable garden.

Counterbalance to vertical boredom. Vines are rightfully called the best way to diversify the vertical structure of the garden, and the best quick means has long been recognized as one-year-old steeplejack cultures. But by no means worse will sunflower cope with the task. Tall and even gigantic varieties planted in a group, in terms of massiveness, can even replace a shrub. If some decorative composition in the garden seems boring, flat, uninteresting to you, plant 3-5 sunflowers there, and your garden will be transformed.

When to plant barberry

It is possible to plant drumfish in open ground in autumn and spring. But in most of the territory of Russia, gardeners prefer to plant in the spring season. In this case, the risk of seedlings freezing out is practically zero. In autumn, barberry should be planted in open ground in early September. This will allow the seedling to take root prior to the onset of frost.

Barberry is best planted in spring

Features of spring planting

Barberry is unpretentious to the composition of the soil. Therefore, it can be planted in any area. However, there are a few basic rules to follow when planting a shrub:

    Barberry is planted early, as soon as the snow melts. Planting seedlings at this time is carried out because the shrub is one of the first to wake up after wintering. Planting work must be completed before the buds swell.

Barberry buds "wake up" early

  • The area for planting shrubs should be well lit. Barberry can grow in the shade, but the yield is greatly reduced.
  • For planting one barberry seedling, a planting pit 40x40 cm is dug.The depth is approximately 0.5 m.
  • To create a barberry hedge, planting is carried out by the trench method: rows are made 40-50 cm deep, seedlings are placed in them at a distance of 0.5 m from each other.

    Saplings are placed at a distance of 50 cm from each other

  • For all its unpretentiousness, barberry does not really like acidic soils. Therefore, when planting in such soil, it is better to add slaked lime (500 g per 1 m 2).
  • The shrub should not be planted near groundwater.
  • When planting in loamy soil, peat must be added to the soil.
  • How to plant barberry correctly

    In order not to harm the shrub, you need to properly plant:

    1. The planting hole or trenches are prepared 2 weeks before planting the shrub.
    2. Half a bucket of sand is poured onto the bottom of the pit. It has a beneficial effect on the root system.
    3. Then the pit is filled with a mixture: soil, mixed in equal proportions with humus and peat. You should also add superphosphate (30-40 g per 1 m 2).
    4. The seedling is dipped into the prepared hole.
    5. The roots are sprinkled with earth, tamped.
    6. The plant is watered abundantly.
    7. The soil is mulched with straw, peat or sawdust.
    8. After planting, it is necessary to cut the seedling so that no more than 3-4 buds remain on the branches.
    9. In the first days after planting, the shrub must be protected from the sun.

    Weather conditions also affect barberry planting. The plant is not planted outdoors on hot days. It is best to choose cloudy weather for landing.

    Barberry. Growing barberry and its varieties

    Barberry. Growing barberry and its varieties

    Barberry everyone knows from childhood, even those who have never seen this bush know what barberry tastes like. The well-known Barberry lollipops from early childhood introduced us to its taste. The sour and fragrant berry has been used by people since the time of the dinosaurs, even then this berry attracted people.

    Let's take a closer look and find out what happens barberry, its varieties and as to grow barberry by yourself in your garden.

    Botanical Description of Barberry

    Let's start our acquaintance with barberry with its botanical description in order to imagine what a barberry is.

    Barberry is a thorny bush... It grows on average up to 2.5 meters in height, depending on the variety and climatic conditions. The branches of the barberry have a whitish-gray bloom. The leaves are small, oblong, shaped like an inverted egg. It blooms with inflorescences in the form of a brush, 25-30 flowers per brush, flowers are yellow. Fruits are oblong when ripe, they are bright red, have a sweet and sour taste, but acidity is more pronounced than sweetness, the fruit has a large flattened bone. Barberry seeds are very light so, for example, 1000 seeds is only about 12 grams.

    Barberry varieties

    Barberry has been growing on our land for a very long time and it can be said to grow everywhere, there are only 2 places in the world where this berry does not grow, and it does not grow in the territories of Australia and Antarctica; in all other countries, it grows successfully. There are more than 500 species of barberry, but of course we will not consider each one, we will consider several species that can be successfully grown here.

    Common barberry - the most common species in our country, which grows in the wild and as an ornamental culture. It grows mainly in the southern regions, where the climate is most suitable for it. An adult shrub grows up to 2 meters in height. Its shoots are arched and have a yellowish-brown hue. Leaves are dark green obovate. The shrub is covered with thorns, these thorns, as it were, each consists of three, the size of the thorns reaches 2 centimeters. It blooms in early spring, the flowers have a bright pleasant aroma. The fruits are oblong like rice, when ripe they turn bright red, the taste of the fruits is pleasantly sour.

    Barberry Amur - this type of barberry came to us from the Far East. In the wild, it can be found in the territories of China and Japan. This variety is larger than ordinary shrub, growing up to 3.5 meters in height. It has larger and more beautiful inflorescences, and the fruits are also slightly larger. After ripening, the fruits are very juicy and have a bright red color. The taste of the fruit is also sour.

    Barberry Canadian - this species came to us, as the name implies, from Canada. On the territory of Russia, it is very rare, more often this species can be found on the territory of Ukraine. Or rather, in its eastern and southern parts. The shrub is also large and grows up to 3 meters. The branches of the shrub are dark purple in color. It differs from the previous varieties in a more abundant harvest.

    Barberry Ottawa - this variety is artificially bred. Such a bush grows up to 2 meters. It differs in that its flowers are not just ordinary yellow, but have a red tint. The fruits are also elongated, but the color is darker.

    This variety has another variety, it is called Ottawa Superba, it differs in the color of the leaves, they are red and I use this variety very often for decorative purposes. This variety is winter-hardy and is practically not susceptible to disease.

    Barberry Sharoplastic - the variety is incredibly winter hardiness. In the wild, it grows in Central Asia. But it differs only in its resistance to frost, its leaves have teeth at the edges, which is usually not the case with the barberry, which we are used to seeing. So its fruits are not at all the same as usual, they are not elongated as usual, they are round, but this is not all, ripe fruits are blue.

    Barberry Thunberg - this variety is used only as an ornamental one. Its fruits are not suitable for consumption. It grows in a small spreading bush. Since it is exclusively an ornamental plant, it is widely used to decorate gardens and parks. Breeders have bred several different species of this variety, such as: Aurea and Bonaza goldthey have yellow leaves. Red Chief has bright red foliage. Harlequin and Kornik have bright variegated leaves. Thunberg Atropurpurea has purple-red leaves, which turn bright carmine in autumn and is the most beautiful representative of the variety.

    Breeding and planting methods Barberry

    Barberry reproduces very easily and there are many planting methods. Barberry can be propagated by seeds, cuttings, layering and dividing the bush.

    Planting and reproduction of barberry seeds

    Barberry, like any drupe, can be propagated and planted by seeds. For planting with seeds, of course, it is necessary to prepare, for this they take well-ripened fruits. Remove all pulp and leave only clean seeds. Seeds are always planted in the fall, they are simply planted immediately in the ground, and they sprout in the spring, but this method is not very reliable, although it is quite simple.

    It is better to plant the seeds in the spring with the sprouts already grown. In order to plant seeds in the spring, they must be put in a bag of sand from autumn and placed at a temperature of +3, not lower. To give the seeds the required temperature, put the bag of seeds under the refrigerator.

    In March, plant the seeds in pots, it is better to cover the pots with foil before germination, creating a small greenhouse for them, then when they germinate, remove it and put them in a sunny place. As soon as the weather is consistently warm, the sprouts can be planted in open ground. For planting with seeds, they must be taken more, out of 10 barberry seeds usually no more than three emerge, their germination is poor, keep this in mind when planting seeds.

    Planting and reproduction of barberry cuttings

    To propagate and plant barberry by cuttings, you need to choose one or a couple of good healthy twigs and divide them into cuttings of at least 10-15 cm.Each cuttings should have at least 2-3 leaves, but no more than 4, if there are more of them, then remove rest.

    This must be done immediately after the leaves bloom. Put the cuttings in water in a transparent bowl, it is better to add a little root to it for better and faster root formation. Place the vessel with the cuttings in a bright, preferably sunny place. When the roots appear at least 2 cm, they can be planted in open ground. It is better to plant several cuttings, because some may not take root, then just leave the strongest plant.

    Planting and reproduction of barberry by layering

    In order to grow and propagate a barberry by layering, it is necessary in the spring, after the leaves bloom, to choose a good healthy twig that can be put on the ground without damaging it. Dig a shallow trench, no deeper than 15 cm, pour some humus or wood ash into the trench. Make small cuts on the branch. Place the branch in this trench so that the end remains on the surface. Make sure that the branch does not come out of the ground, you can secure it in the ground with staples made of stiff wire. Cover the branch with earth, the branch will need to be watered regularly, preventing the soil from drying out, otherwise roots will not form there.

    Next spring, the cuttings will be completely ready for separation and transplantation, in the fall it is better not to do this, rooting may go badly. Just carefully dig out the layers, dig deeper so as not to damage the roots. Then divide the cuttings into individual seedlings with the pruner.

    Planting and reproduction of barberry by dividing the bush

    Reproduction of barberry by dividing the bush is a very popular method. It grows rather quickly and therefore this method is quite affordable and even useful for the plant. Such reproduction is done in the spring before the leaves bloom, it is better to cut the bush a little before that, so that it becomes smaller, because it is rather inconvenient to divide a bush with a height of 2 meters. In order to do this, carefully dig out the bush, then use the pruning shears to divide the bush into several separate ones.

    Planting barberry

    After you have already chosen the method for reproduction and planting, let's proceed to the planting itself. There are a few simple rules to follow.

    Choosing a place for planting barberry

    Barberry is not particularly whimsical, it may well grow in the floor of the shade and even in the shade, the plant will not die from this. But it is worth considering that when planting in the shade of a barberry, you will reduce its decorative effect and yield, so it is still advisable to plant it in a bright place. He is not afraid of drafts, so you should not worry about this.

    Soil preparation

    To plant the barberry, dig a hole slightly deeper than the length of the roots. At the bottom of the pit, pour some small pebbles, rubble or just broken brick to create drainage for it. Then make a mixture to cover the roots. You need to take in equal proportions the earth from your garden that you dug by digging a hole for planting, sand and humus, mix it all well.

    Planting barberry

    Before planting barberry, it is necessary to put roots in water for a couple of hours, if you are planting cuttings from water, then of course you do not need to do this. Then lower the plant into the prepared hole, fill it with the prepared mixture of earth, sand and humus. Water the bush well, the earth will sag and it will have to be filled up. Water the ground again after adding the ground.

    Barberry care

    Caring for barberry is quite simple, it can grow without your participation at all, like in the wild.But after all, when planting a house, everyone wants either a beautiful or productive shrub, or maybe both options at once, and for this it is better to provide him with some care.

    Watering barberry

    Barberry survives drought well, but for a beautiful look and a good harvest, it still needs moisture. Watering is often not worth it, if the summer is dry, water the shrub once a month if it is an adult plant, and if it is very young, then water it 3-4 times a month in the first year of life. Also, in a drought, you can arrange an evening bath for the barberry, it will not harm and will allow the plant to refresh in a drought.

    Top dressing of barberry

    In the first year, you do not need to feed, it is enough that you have already brought in when planting it. Then, every spring, water it with a urea solution, dissolve 20 g of urea in 10 liters of water and water the plant, first dig up the ground under the bush. Also, once every 2-3 years, he needs organic feeding, for this, dissolve about 1.5 liters of already liquefied cow dung in a bucket of water, also pour fertilizer on the dug soil.

    Pruning barberry

    Shrub pruning must be carried out regularly and this is probably the most difficult thing in caring for it, because it is covered in thorns. For work you need very thick gloves, preferably special leather gloves for gardening.

    Pruning is best done annually, it is imperative to remove excess branches, do not allow the bush to become very thick, otherwise it will not be realistic to harvest.

    It is also worth immediately removing diseased and dry branches.

    If you have planted a barberry for decorative purposes, then it is worth pruning in time for formation, it grows quite quickly and therefore can quickly lose its desired shape, it is best to carry out decorative pruning every spring and autumn.

    Barberry care in winter

    Barberry is a very winter-hardy plant, but still a young plant may not survive severe frosts. Therefore, the first 2 years of life should be covered with a non-woven fabric. It is also worth covering the roots with straw. But the wrapping is carried out not immediately, but only when the temperature stably drops to -5, not earlier.

    Diseases and pests of barberry

    Barberry is very resistant to disease, it can only be affected by some fungal diseases such as powdery mildew, rust, spotting, drying out of the shoot, bacteriosis. But barberry is ill with them in very rare cases. If suddenly you find one of these diseases, immediately take measures to eliminate it. Specialized stores sell special products that are used in the fight against these diseases.

    As you have already seen, barberry is very easy to grow and care for. It is enough to choose the variety that suits you and start planting.

    Barberry: selection, cultivation and use in garden decoration - garden and vegetable garden

    It is impossible to imagine our table without vegetables and potatoes. They are the most important component of the diet of both the academician and the carpenter. Vegetables - a pantry of carbohydrates, protein, organic acids, vitamins, mineral salts, enzymes, and other essential nutrients. Of particular value are vitamins, which are either almost absent or present in small doses in other products. Do not rely solely on grocery stores and markets, start your own vegetable garden. Especially if you want to have fresh vegetables straight from the garden. The secrets of growing vegetables are not that difficult. Diligence, perseverance, curiosity, ingenuity will help you overcome all difficulties and become a real vegetable grower.

    So, advice from specialists and experienced gardeners.

    To extend the season for the consumption of fresh vegetables, early, medium and late varieties are planted. The earliest harvests in the open field can be obtained from the cultivation of perennial crops (sorrel, rhubarb, perennial types of onions), as well as from winter sowing of carrots, beets, parsley, radishes and planting onions. Early vegetables of annual crops (lettuce, cucumbers, radishes) and onions can be grown in small greenhouses in the garden.

    They accelerate the development of shelters made of film or glass without artificial heating in early spring. You can grow radishes under them. They can cover sorrel, rhubarb, onions, winter crops of beets and carrots.

    Vegetable plants according to biological, botanical and economic characteristics, they are classified into homogeneous groups.

    Cabbage plants. There are several varieties of cabbage: white cabbage, cauliflower, red cabbage, Savoy cabbage, Brussels sprouts, kohlrabi and leafy cabbage. Almost all types of cabbage are biennial plants. Only in the second year, the planted stalks with apical buds give seeds. Plants of this group are cold-resistant, require increased moisture supply, although they do not tolerate excessive moisture (especially long-term), they are demanding on soil fertility. Cauliflower, Chinese cabbage and broccoli under certain conditions form seeds in the first year of life and are annual.

    Mid-season cabbage varieties are suitable for pickling, late varieties for pickling and long-term storage. Red cabbage is unsuitable for cooking, it is used fresh for salads. Cauliflower is good for boiling, roasting, and canning.

    Roots. This group includes: carrots, parsnips, parsley, celery (umbelliferae family) beetroot (from the haze family) radish, turnips, turnips, rutabagas, radishes (cruciferous family) chicory (from the aster family). All root crops form seeds in the second year of life (when planted with an intact apical bud), with the exception of radishes and summer radishes, which give seeds in the first year. Without exception, all plants of this group are cold-resistant, require high soil fertility, moisture supply (especially in the period after sowing the seeds).

    Bulbous plants. In this group, onions, leeks, perennial varieties of onions (multi-tiered shallots, batun onions) coexist. All these plants are cold-resistant. Onions and garlic contain many nutrients and vitamins. Onions are grown by seeds (nigella), sevkom (small onions 1.5-2.5 cm, usually obtained from nigella) and a sample (3-4 cm or more).

    Fruit vegetables. Cucumbers, zucchini, squash, pumpkin, watermelons, melons (pumpkin family) tomatoes, peppers, eggplants (nightshade family). All these plants are very thermophilic and require highly fertile soils. Almost every year, in our conditions, to obtain these vegetables, it is necessary to use protective agents against frost and low temperatures.

    Peas, beans and beans (legume family) also belong to the group of fruit vegetables. Unlike their neighbors, they can withstand low temperatures. Beans are somewhat more thermophilic than peas and beans.

    Green vegetables. These are the familiar salad, dill, parsley, celery, watercress, coriander (don't be embarrassed that we also included some of them in the group of root vegetables - remember the sayings about tops and roots), as well as other cultures that we almost not familiar and not cultivated in the middle lane. All of these crops are cold-resistant annuals, they are mainly sown with seeds.

    Perennial vegetables. It is somehow unusual to call sorrel, rhubarb, asparagus, horseradish vegetables - but it is so. All these plants are frost-resistant, in one place they can grow from two to five years. Propagated by seeds and vegetatively.

    Potatoes. Among vegetables it takes a special place, it is bred to obtain tubers. Potatoes belong to the nightshade family. Potato bushes are easily damaged by frost. Propagated mainly by tubers, but you can also propagate it by eyes, sprouts, dividing a bush and even seeds (this laborious work does not give the same effect as propagation by tubers).

    Part garden plot that you allocate for vegetable crops should not be shaded. If possible, you should choose a free, well-lit area with the most fertile soil (if the soil is not very fertile, you need to patiently start creating it for many years). A common mistake of novice vegetable growers is the desire for a combined arrangement of crops, when vegetables and strawberries are placed among young apple and pear trees. As long as the trees are young, everything seems to be going well: the crowns do not shade the beds too much, there is enough light and food for vegetables. But trees quickly gain strength, grow, and then the intermediate crops fall into the shade, their yield decreases from year to year. Indeed, most vegetable crops and potatoes do not tolerate strong shading and the presence of roots of woody plants in the soil. Therefore, one of the main rules for complex gardening and horticulture - provide a place for each crop and take into account the need to subsequently carry out a competent change (alternation) of vegetables and berries. After all, a certain culture should be returned to its original place not earlier than after three years, and even better - after four or five years. To do this, you need to draw up a clear plan for the placement and rotation of crops.

    The timing of the return of crops to their original place is roughly the following: cabbage - 3 - 4 years, carrots - 3, peas - 4 - 5, celery - 3, tomatoes - 3 - 4, cucumbers - 3, lettuce - 1-2, onions - 4 - 5 years.

    The yield decreases especially sharply and the quality deteriorates with permanent cultivation of cabbage, beets, peas, tomatoes, cucumbers, and potatoes.

    When plants are re-grown on the same soil, a decrease in yield occurs as a result of the release of physiologically active substances into the soil, which subsequently inhibit the same culture.

    The most appropriate width of the beds is 1.2 m. Between the beds, paths 0.3 m wide are left. The creation of narrower beds is a waste of the land of the garden plot, wider ones - it makes it difficult to cultivate the soil, take care of plants and harvest.